Why the Solargraph is the obvious choice for the TAG Heuer Aquaracer

Russell Sheldrake

When it comes to powering your watch, there are more options available to us now than ever before. Manually wound, full-rotor automatic, periphery-rotor automatic, micro-rotor automatic, quartz, tuning-fork quartz, and, of course, our subject today: solar. This is one of the more recent additions to the horological world, and one that has remained on the edges for many, mainly due to its wanton embrace of technology that seemingly flies in the face of our love for all things classical.

But when used correctly, a solar-powered movement is the only and obvious choice. And I firmly believe that the Aquaracer from TAG Heuer is at its best when being powered by light. It might not be the collection you automatically think of when someone mentions TAG Heuer, but overlooking the brand’s dive watch option could be a serious mistake, and the selection that comes powered with the Solargraph movement highlights some of its best qualities.

But why does a dive watch work better with a light-powered movement? Something that is supposed to spend its time below the waves, realistically, will more often be on the beach or in the boardroom than near a coral reef. But this movement, the TH50-00, which has been developed by La Joux-Perret, is designed specifically to adapt to any and all environments.

With 10 months of running at full charge and an incredible four years on standby mode, this movement is seriously efficient. Which is why I like this watch for doing absolutely anything. And you don’t get this level of performance by accident. TAG Heuer worked closely with La Joux-Perret to arrive at this movement, and has continued to do so since it was first released, as can be seen in the marked improvement it has had over the years. Initially, it was only capable of six months of life on a full charge, and three and a half years while on standby mode.

Although saying those numbers preceded by the word “only” feels a bit dramatic, as these were, and still are, incredibly impressive statistics, it speaks to the effectiveness of the partnership between TAG and La Joux-Perret that they can continue the development of the TH50-00 and ensure it continues to provide the very best experience it can.

But why does TAG Heuer, a brand synonymous with the best mechanical chronograph movements in the world, feel the need to produce and continue to develop this solar technology? Well, I think the problem with that question is in its phrasing. TAG didn’t develop these incredible chronographs for the heck of it; they did it to solve real-world problems, and that’s why they created the new compliant system we saw at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Its clients expect watches that combine performance, longevity, and reduced maintenance requirements.

Compare this Aquaracer to your standard quartz model, and it beats them on all fronts, not least because of the lack of a standard battery that needs replacing every couple of years. Instead, that solar cell is recharging an accumulator that has a much longer lifespan and is expected to function for over 16 years. Yes, you compare that to the marketing we hear for mechanical movements being passed down generations, and it might not sound long, but this is an electrical piece of equipment. Can you name another piece of electronics in your home right now that has lasted 16 years and still works as well as it did on the day you bought it?

So how exactly does the Solargraph movement generate this energy? The dial that you’re seeing on this Aquaracer isn’t as solid as you might think. It is, in fact, semi-translucent, letting enough light hit the solar cell which sits behind it. At some angles, you can just about tell that this dial isn’t fully solid, especially when looking at the date window. This light is then converted into electrical energy and stored in that accumulator we mentioned before. 10 minutes of natural or artificial light will power the watch for 40 hours, and once it’s fully charged, you can get 10 months of autonomy.

But why does that matter? Surely you’re not going to stay in an entirely dark room for 10 months at a time, so how could this watch ever run out of power? Well, the rugged case design and construction that can be made out of either stainless steel, grade 5 titanium, or a mix of grade 2 and grade 5 is built for action. And I don’t know about you, but I am not always out in the wilderness and in need of a watch that can withstand such punishment. So you may need to put this one away for a little bit, yet it needs to stay ready, for at a moment’s notice, you could be off again into the wilderness and need your toughest timer on your wrist.

You’ll notice that the case of this watch is fairly symmetrical despite having solid crown guards, and that is thanks to the fluted ridge at 9 o’clock that adds additional bulk to this protective case. Secured to 200m underwater thanks to the screw-down caseback and the screw-down crown, not much is going to get past this watch. And when you study the construction of the bezel, with its prominent rider tabs that make it more visible and easier to use, combined with its monochrome aesthetic and the use of both polish and rough graining, you have an incredibly utilitarian watch. An aesthetic that speaks to its function.

And it is thanks to this Solargraph movement developed with La Joux-Perret that this is possible. This movement feels like a genuine step change in the development of what many unfairly label as quartz watchmaking. The durability, sustainability, and performance of this calibre mark it apart from any battery-powered watch, and the fact that it is legitimately Swiss Made at the same time only elevates it even further.

Many of us will buy a quartz watch because we value our time, because we want autonomy and the ability to put a watch on and forget about it. The Solargraph takes that to the next level. And I don’t think there is a watch I would worry about less than this one, whether it was on my wrist during a jungle expedition or sat in a drawer, waiting for its next adventure.