Why 2025 was a weird year for Rolex
Tom AustinIf you’re a Rolex enthusiast, the last five years or so have undeniably been exciting. The brand has dominated headlines, driven surging secondary-market prices, and continued to command more attention than almost any other name in watchmaking. But that dominance also breeds expectation, and in 2025, this left enthusiasts in an unusual position. Despite Rolex’s ongoing success, the brand’s moves this year have left some collectors tilting their heads.
In short, 2025 has been a weird year for Rolex, and for reasons you might not expect. Here’s my explanation why, as a seasoned Rolex collector.
Land-Dwelling on the details
Just before Watches & Wonders rolled around this year, rumbles of a new Rolex model circulated pretty early on, with iffy-looking leaked images doing the rounds. This is nothing new; we’ve had Rolex leaks in the past, but these were different. Firstly, the leaks came weeks ahead of the launch, which had never happened before, given Rolex’s reputation for operating like a top-secret black-ops division. It’s still unclear whether these leaks were intentional on the brand’s part; at this point, we have to assume they were, but if so, well, that’s even more remarkably off-brand.
Secondly, the brand-new watch in the photos looked so insanely fake that there was no way it could be real. Yet, it was alongside some pretty convincing images of other watches, such as the turquoise dial Daytona and the green dial GMT Master-II VTNR, which really raised some eyebrows. A few weeks of spiralling speculation later, we soon found out the Rolex Land-Dweller was a very real watch indeed, and a controversial one at that.
Love it or hate it, the Land-Dweller is an objectively interesting watch for several reasons. It’s Rolex’s first integrated bracelet design since the Gerald Genta era of the Rolex Oysterquartz, and a direct descendant of his now-iconic ref. 5100 ‘Texano’. The Land-Dweller’s not just a Datejust in a fancy frock, either. The watch debuted the calibre 7135 high-beat movement, featuring the new Dynapulse escapement running at 5Hz, along with a plethora of new patents and silicon componentry. It essentially ushers in a new technical direction for the brand, which will no doubt roll out across other models in the future.
Despite it being extraordinarily late to the integrated bracelet party, it’s undoubtedly a significant watch for Rolex. And man, didn’t they let us know it. The release overshadowed practically everything else the brand announced, and even now, nine months later, we’re constantly seeing it on the wrists of Rolex testimonees such as Leonardo DiCaprio, despite it being practically impossible to get hold of in authorised dealers.
While the recipe itself is compelling, the watch’s looks have divided opinions, big time, and it’s easy to see why. On what should have been the watch that wowed the industry, we ended up with a dial which, in my opinion at least, is incoherent, unbalanced and distracting. From the laser-etched honeycomb pattern on the dial to the seemingly unnecessary use of 9 and 6 Arabic numerals (with a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock… Argh!), it’s the complete opposite of what we would usually see from the brand.
The strange state of waitlists
As anyone who’s walked into a Rolex boutique in the last few years will know, the waitlist is about as synonymous with the brand as Roger Federer or fluted bezels. But the industry landscape is very different in 2025, so what do waiting lists look like today?
Well, on the whole, you still can’t get what you want, but it’s a little more nuanced now. But it’s important to note that it was always a supply-and-demand issue. Even with Rolex pumping out around 1.2 million watches a year, there has never been enough of the hottest models out there to keep up with demand. And while that figure sounds like a lot of watches, it certainly doesn’t equate to 250,000+ steel Daytonas a year. While it’s impossible to pinpoint the exact number, it’s reasonable to assume there are still more people who want one than are available, so you have to get in line, buddy.
That’s not to say it isn’t easier in 2025, though. Yes, ADs windows are still filled with “exhibition only” pieces; however, if you keep your expectations realistic, there’s a good chance you’ll get “the call” sooner than you think. Rolex ADs still run a process where, if you’re a big spender, you’ll be allocated more of the hotter pieces; like it or not, that’s just an age-old aspect of trade at work.
But realistically, if you want a steel Datejust 36 or an Explorer II, as long as you make yourself known to the AD and don’t just register and disappear, then you’ll likely get a call within the next 2-4 months, worst-case scenario. Best case, you might even walk out with one on the day, if you’re lucky. Yes, it does happen.
The hotter models, however, are still incredibly hot. There are around 1,800 authorised dealers worldwide, and some may see only a small handful of GMT-Master IIs or Daytonas each year, depending on their location. With the list of people waiting for them as long as your arm, it’s easy to see that the numbers don’t add up.
So if you’re looking for a Land-Dweller, the fact is, you’re still going to have to be considered a VIP to be worthy of buying one. Isn’t it frustrating? Well, yes, but there are layers to it, because while to some, the thought of having to wait for something or having to buy items you might not want to get the ones you do may seem ridiculous, and objectively, it is, the system favours those who play it. It’s flawed, but it works. It keeps pieces just scarce enough, and keeps people wanting them.
What happened to the anniversary models?
Under the surface, 2025 was actually a massive year for Rolex in general, but the brand chose not to shout about the most significant reasons. This year marked the 80th anniversary of the Datejust, arguably the most important and instantly recognisable Rolex of all. Older than the Submariner, it bears the hallmarks of what makes a Rolex a Rolex: the Oyster case, the fluted bezel, the Jubilee bracelet, and the Cyclops date. It’s the quintessential watch that ordinary people think of when they think of a Rolex. And yet, after 80 years, Rolex said nothing.
It was a perfect opportunity to revive the solid gold Datejust, or even a special dial, but instead, we just lost the palm fronds dial on the 36mm. We did get a Datejust book, though, so there is that. While the brand is known for not going down the predictable route, I can’t help but think this was a missed opportunity. And it wasn’t the only one, either.
The Datejust wasn’t the only Rolex celebrating a birthday in 2025; the GMT-Master II turned 70 years old, too. Well, the original GMT-Master did, at least, and the GMT-Master II is its predecessor. We did get a full white gold left-hand-drive VTNR with the first ceramic dial, but, despite it being green, it wasn’t marked as an anniversary piece.
Now, don’t get me wrong, I love the VTNR, but I’m well aware of how divisive the watch is, and if you’re in the camp of those who hate it, then there’s a good chance you couldn’t care less about this new green-dialled model either. Furthermore, the steel model wasn’t discontinued, which makes this left-handed oddity even stranger.
The most criminally slept-on Rolex release of 2025?
The 1908 is the watch that took over from the Cellini line in 2023, and since its release, has continued the Cellini’s trend of flying under the radar. 2024 saw a fresh guilloché dial on the platinum model, but beyond that, the 1908 has generally lacked innovation and daring new concepts. It’s a shame because, as a canvas, the 1908 is perfect for adding complications, as our release prediction pieces have shown, but as yet we’ve not seen anything materialise. However, this year, there was another 1908 debut, which I think is being heavily slept on.
The Settimo bracelet in yellow gold was launched at Watches & Wonders: a delightfully svelte, seven-linked take on the Jubilee, which is designed specifically for the 1908. It’s thinner, dressier, slinkier, and features the sexy hidden clasp removed from the 5-link Jubilee bracelets used on larger models a few years ago. It elevates the 1908 into something a little less formal but still dressy and purposeful, and, being solid gold, gives the watch significant presence and makes it truly red-carpet-worthy. Yet, it actually looks just as, if not more, cool with a t-shirt and jeans. But alas, since the launch, I’ve barely heard a peep about it, let alone seen anyone wear one.
Maybe it’s a waitlist problem, or perhaps Rolex are just slow to roll them out, I’m not sure. The problem is more likely that at the 30k price point, there’s a lot of competition that may get you to open your wallet first. But nevertheless, that doesn’t detract from the bracelet being drop-dead gorgeous.
Who are you, and what have you done with Rolex?
If you’ve ever been fortunate enough to bag a Rolex at retail, you might know that sometimes, if the AD really likes you, you may get lucky and be given a snazzy Rolex cap, wallet, umbrella or so on as a gift with your new acquisition. This is something that has gone on for years. Amazingly, you can also spend tens of thousands with the brand, and never see a thing (don’t ask me how I know…) But now, as of 2025, if your pockets are deep enough, you can buy something from the “Rolex Accessories” range.
This includes a Submariner desk clock, which retails at US$10,270, or even a set of questionable cufflinks that cost around US$5,800. There’s the full range of yellow gold, Everose, or white gold, in several styles, so no matter where your tastes lie, everyone knows you’re really into Rolex, even if the watch on your wrist doesn’t say that enough. This is a huge step for the brand, as it’s never been known to sell anything other than watches before now. However, I do suspect that, should they sit in the AD cabinet for a little too long (which they probably will), the cufflinks may at least be used as bargaining chips to get your name shifted a little further up that waiting list.
Oh, and I haven’t even gone into the controversy around Donald Trump’s Rolex desk clock…
Closing thoughts
Some of you may know by now that I’m somewhat of a Rolex fan boy (or Jamie might say I am, at least). I just love some of the watches for what they are, but I am not blind to the fact that the brand does have its flaws. I think, overall, 2025 was a positive year for the brand and set some interesting benchmarks for where it can go in the years to come, especially with the likes of the Land-Dweller and its technology.
The landscape of the watch industry is changing, and whether you like it or not, Rolex is a brand that can command significant attention within it, so it’s essential to see the brand on track. It’s a big ship to steer, and these things take time to pan out, so we’ll revisit this in the future, I’m sure. But for now, 2025 was an odd one for Rolex, and who knows, maybe next year will get weirder. We have just a few days to go, and we’ll find out…