All the bang, but not enough bucks. Here are the watches you can’t justify buying
Buffy AcaciaThese days, a watch doesn’t need to be your grail for it to be unattainable. Inflation has skyrocketed in the last handful of years, and similarly-soaring living costs mean we have less to spend on incredible watches. Where an average office worker could have happily picked up an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 10 years ago, they’d now probably have to set their sights quite a lot lower. With all that in mind, we asked you what’s one watch you desire, but can’t justify buying.
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Rectangular dress watches are as desirable as ever, or are they?
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank are both undisputed legends of watch design, but their strong, classical appeal can struggle to fit in with contemporary styles. Putting prices aside for a moment, being unable to justify a purchase based on your own typical wardrobe is completely valid, no matter how tempting the “wear what you like” motto may be. There can definitely be a difference between what you’d love to own, and what you’d love to wear.
Those that actually would wear the Reverso (a number which greatly outweighs those who wouldn’t) have unfortunately discovered Jaeger-LeCoultre’s price hikes to be too steep to swallow. For example, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds has gone up by around US$2,000 since its release in 2021. Whether or not you think a >20% increase is justified, there’s a huge psychological barrier between spending four and five figures on a luxury accessory.
The Holy Trinity prevails…
By and large, watches from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet are still some of the most lusted-after watches out there. I guess it’s no coincidence that the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking still make the most Holy Grails, and enthusiasts have refused to lower their aims. In a way, if a watch was already unattainable, it can’t get any less so.
Of all the watches mentioned, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was up there. Of course a US$77,000 watch made of solid 18k gold is going to get some people salivating, but it’s the historical context behind Jörg Hysek’s 1977 masterpiece that really tickles enthusiast interest, as it was the precursor to the entire Overseas collection. I’ve been lucky enough to hold one in my hands and the sheer weight of the thing despite its modest dimensions is an incredibly powerful sensation. However, even if you’ve got the cash, good luck finding one available to purchase.
…and A. Lange & Söhne still vies for place among them
For several years, there’s been a compelling argument that A. Lange & Söhne deserves to be recognised as equal to the Holy Trinity, even though it’s a German company. Truthfully, the quality is right up there, and the mix of artistic and engineering principles is as well. The only doubt is in regards to its history, as the company we know today has a complicated lineage to the original Lange brand. Regardless, the fact that so many people put A. Lange & Söhne on that same pedestal easily puts it on par with the likes of the Trinity.
However, the ability to consider purchasing an A. Lange & Söhne has the potential to turn you away from one. There’s been such emphasis on shrinking case sizes in the last year or two that it seems collectors might even be shunning larger watches for fear of dreaded lug overhang. The Zeitwerk’s diameter is only 41.9mm, which could have been considered modest not too long ago, but I respect @brycenhaggard’s assessment of their own wrist and priorities.
Some people are still living the dream
Can you really justify the purchase, or do you just relish making irresponsible decisions? I’m usually on the latter end of the spectrum, but for some people it doesn’t matter at all. It’s reassuring to see that not everyone is wrestling with the implications of buying luxury goods in times of global crisis, because indulging in shopping therapy just feels so good. After all, that’s how buying a new watch is supposed to make you feel.