WATCHES & WONDERS: Tudor collection overview WATCHES & WONDERS: Tudor collection overview

WATCHES & WONDERS: Tudor collection overview

Fergus Nash

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include videos, live pics, and our hands-on perspective. But for now let’s run through each of the new watches – here is our Tudor collection overview for Watches & Wonders 2022.

Black Bay Pro

Since the introduction of the Tudor Black Bay GMT, people have been clamouring for different versions. Taking clear inspiration from the Rolex Explorer II and the older reference 1655, the Tudor Black Bay Pro puts forward a deliciously vintage-flavoured tool watch with versatile dimensions and modern reliability. With the segmented and brushed 24-hour steel bezel and redesigned crown without guards, you would already notice that this release takes a lot of cues from vintage watches. But, the nicest touch in ageing this watch has to be the slightly off-white luminous paint that’s even matched on the date wheel, giving a sepia lens to the already rustic appeal.

The yellow highlight on the GMT hand injects an electric sportiness to the watch, reminiscent to the much-loved and discontinued Tudor North Flag and accented by the yellow-striped NATO strap or yellow-stitched fabric and rubber hybrid strap. Of course, the riveted steel bracelet is also an option to keep it retro. It’s classic in its sizing too, with a 39mm diameter promising to wear well on the majority of wrists. The Tudor in-house calibre MT5652 was designed for this watch, and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour for up to 70 hours with COSC-certified levels of accuracy.

Case Material Stainless Steel
Case Dimensions 39mm
Water-Resistance 200m
Dial Matte black
Straps Black NATO with rubber stripe / Black fabric and rubber hybrid / Steel bracelet
Movement Calibre MT5652
Power Reserve 70 hours
Complications Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Price 3,500 CHF / 3,800 CHF on bracelet

Black Bay GMT S&G

Tudor collection overview

Another alternative to the original Tudor Black Bay GMT is this Black Bay GMT S&G with a two-tone finish that seems to be Tudor’s underlying theme for Watches & Wonders 2022 — giving the classically-styled sports watch a dressier twist. The change from steel to gilt bezel and dial details is quite radical despite its simplicity, giving the watch a much more vibrant and almost giddy appearance. The aluminium bezel insert has moved to the black and red-brown ‘Root Beer’ colour scheme, with a deep matte shade of burgundy that contrasts nicely with the bright yellow gold.

Tudor collection overview

Although it’s almost always preferable to buy a watch on the bracelet, the S&G colours look marvellous and humble on either the gold-striped NATO strap or the slightly aged brown leather, while the bracelet with polished 18k gold centre links is much more on the snazzy side if that’s what you’re going for. The in-house calibre MT5652 is the same COSC-certified movement as the Black Bay Pro, with the 70 hour power reserve and a jumping-hour GMT complication.

Case Material Stainless Steel
Case Dimensions 41mm x 50mm x 14.6 mm
Water-Resistance 200m
Dial Black gilt
Straps Black and gold NATO / Brown leather / Steel and gold bracelet
Movement Calibre MT5652
Power Reserve 70 hours
Complications Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Price 4,100 CHF / 5,300 CHF on bracelet

Black Bay Chrono S&G

Tudor collection overview

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G returns in a new guise that raises the flashiness whilst retaining its poise, now bearing a sunburst champagne dial with contrasting black subdials. The dial is slightly domed, which adds even more depth to the brushing as it moves in the light and dazzles the viewer, and although legibility is sacrificed by having gold hands on a gold background the overall effect is too stunning to ignore.

Tudor collection overview

The in-house calibre is the same MT5813 movement that was used for the matte-black dial version, having been a collaborative effort with Breitling to achieve a 70-hour power reserve at the Swiss standard 28,800 vibrations per hour, also featuring a column wheel, vertical clutch, and a silicon balance spring to increase magnetic resistance. The date at 6 o’clock keeps things nicely symmetrical, while the 41mm case is quite wearable if you’re comfortable with a 50mm lug-to-lug length. It’s available on a fabric NATO, the leather bund strap, or the riveted bracelet with 18k solid gold centre links.

Case Material Stainless Steel
Case Dimensions 41mm x 50mm x 14.5 mm
Water-Resistance 200m
Dial Sunburst champagne
Straps Black nato / Brown leather bund / Steel and gold bracelet
Movement Calibre MT5813
Power Reserve 70 hours
Complications Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Price 5,700 CHF / 6,900 CHF on bracelet

Black Bay 31/36/39/41 S&G

Tudor collection overview

Continuing the S&G revolution of Tudor’s catalogue is an overhauling of all their fixed-bezel references to include the two-tone options. All the way down from 31mm to 41mm, each respective reference keeps the iconic look of the snowflake hands and COSC-certified status while introducing a few extra flashy varieties.

The options available in this range are now truly dizzying, with choices of dials including a classic black and sunburst silver, as well as a decorative pattern dial with diamond hour markers in either anthracite or yellow gold. The 31/36/39 options with diamonds also come with diamond-set bezels, dramatically increasing the level of bling associated with the watch. Regardless of the size and option you pick, you will be treated to the same gorgeous and comfortable steel and yellow gold five-link bracelet.

Case Material Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold
Case Dimensions 31mm / 36mm / 39mm / 41mm
Water-Resistance 100m
Dial Black / Silver sunburst / Anthracite pattern / Gold pattern
Straps Steel and gold 5-link bracelet
Movement MT5201 (31mm) / MT5400 (36mm) / MT5602 (39mm) / MT5601 (41mm)
Power Reserve 50 hours (31mm) / 70 hours (36/39/41)
Complications Hours, minutes, seconds
Price 4,700 CHF – 7,000 CHF

Royal Mother of Pearl

The Tudor Royal line was an instant Marmite release, with the marriage of 1970s integrated sports watches and classical Roman-numeral elegance being too much for some and just the right amount of quirky for others. Now, Tudor has doubled down on the glitzy side with four new dazzling references.

With each of the new models donning a mother of pearl dial, the options for having a diamond-set bezel or a notched bezel in either steel or yellow gold doesn’t really affect the watch in terms of masculinity or femininity, rather basing the variety on the wearer’s preferences. Given that these are available in 28mm or 34mm sizes, they are certainly geared towards those with smaller wrists or a preference for vintage fitments.

Case Material Stainless Steel / Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold
Case Dimensions 28mm / 34mm
Water-Resistance 100m
Dial Mother of pearl
Straps Integrated steel / Inegrated steel and 18k yellow gold
Movement Calibre T201 (28mm) / Calibre T601 (34mm)
Power Reserve 38 hours
Complications Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Price 2,800 CHF – 4,500 CHF