Why does this seem like a natural combination, while all my logical senses tell me it’s wrong in so many ways? The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 is methodically over-engineered in every functional capacity and yet, if we compare it to the similarly butch Omega Ploprof, it feels like the polar opposite, somehow managing to still exude an elegant, raffish air.
With this Rolesor yellow gold version, make that an air of caddish insouciance, as it flaunts its capabilities as a tool watch by bringing the gold. To be honest, as a two-tone watch Rolex does the best job in the business imbuing the models (Rolesor? Not a proprietary alloy, it simply means two-tone) with an added zest of colour. It somehow feels completely natural, and more of a celebratory colour for their tool watch prowess.
It may look like a watch designed for pure business attire and party flexing, but the Sea-Dweller is still very much a tool watch ready for action. While personally I do feel that 43mm is on the large side – its mere presence puts me one the edge of nervousness – I love the juxtaposition of badass tool with the polished silky smooth centre links in gold. Like Arnie in a suit, James Bond in a tuxedo, would you dare doubt their ruthless capabilities?
The brilliance of Rolex is that every nuance is imbued with such innate quality that you get lost in a vicious circle of trying to find, well, mistakes, but you won’t find them here, mate. No bracelet that has three links has any right to be so tight of tolerance – or so perfectly finished. The combination of 904L steel and the softer yellow gold feeling heavy but soft on the wrist.
The case is the instantly recognisable larger brother of the Sub, still frustratingly perfect of proportions, with a vocabulary of elegance that is unique. The gold bezel is still a sharp picture of functionality, and the gold details here and on the dial brings a warmth to the beast that for some reason fits. On the wrist you don’t question the 1220m depth rating, instead the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 underlines your confidence in a golden and understated manner. Me? From its inception in 2019, my slight scepticism has been thoroughly quelled by the Sea-Dweller’s quiet confidence.
Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 price and availability:
The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 is $23,400AU and is currently in the catalogue. For more details, check our options at Bob’s Watches right here.
