VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releasesRicardo Sime
In this video, Jeremy and Zach take a look at Vacheron Constantin‘s new releases and one of the immediate highlights: the Historiques 222. You might remember this story from last year where a Time+Tide reader spoke to us about finding a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer that turned out to be worth a lot of money. Essentially the precursor to the Overseas, it’s a sports watch with an integrated bracelet that was launched in 1977 to mark the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Often confused as being the handiwork of Gerard Genta, it was, in fact, the creation of Jörg Hysek, a promising young watch designer who cut his teeth at Rolex before setting up his own design business, with Vacheron becoming one of his early clients. Well, now it’s back.
Certain brands have the benefit of pulling from their historical catalogue references that seem to stop the world. For Vacheron, that is exactly the case with the Historiques 222. Celebrating the 45th anniversary of the model, Vacheron revives one of the most desired, classic references of their pantheon. The watch is a limited edition and completely shakes up the current playing field for integrated bracelet watches.
Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Another highlight? Watch out Patek Philippe ref. 5270P, because a new salmon platinum perpetual calendar chronograph has just hit the market. The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph will have large appeal to collectors who love classic aesthetics and complications in modern sizing. Of course most will immediately clock the salmon-colored opaline dial, blued chronographs hands, white gold hands pertaining to the time, and the 950 platinum moon phase disc to match the case. But my favourite part of this offering, alongside its slamming salmon shade, is the calibre 1142 QP within. Sure, as expected it is incredibly well decorated. But, eagle-eyed gearheads will recognise its historic architecture. The calibre has had a lot of developments designed in-house to reach its final stage, but it is based on the legendary Lemania 2310 hand wound column-wheel chronograph calibre that notably served as the basis for Omega’s calibre 321. The offering certainly ticks a lot of boxes, but its 43mm diameter may be a point of contention. But, depending on its lug-to-lug measurement, it may not pose a problem to the smaller wristed.