Vacheron Constantin rounds off its 270th anniversary year with some seriously classy Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins
Jamie WeissEarlier this year, Vacheron Constantin had a bit of a mic-drop moment when it released the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch in the world, with 41 different complications. That’s off the back of the Berkley Grand Complication pocket watch they released last year, which, with 63 complications, is the most complicated watch in the world, full stop. What’s so impressive about the Solaria, though, is that despite its dizzying array of functions, it’s still quite legible and wearable. And actually, that’s one of Vacheron Constantin’s great skills: creating complicated, highly refined timepieces that you could still feasibly wear every day.
That leads us to the topic of today’s review, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, which Vacheron Constantin has debuted in three new executions to round off what’s been an absolutely stacked year of new watches in 2025, as the brand has celebrated its 270th anniversary.
The cases
There are more than a few perpetual calendars in Vacheron’s current range, but the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin stands out as it’s one of the smallest and, as you may have guessed, one of the thinnest, too. Measuring up at 36.5 millimetres in diameter and just 8.43 millimetres thick, it’s one of the most compact perpetual calendar watches on the market – an impressive feat.
Previous executions of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin have been positioned as overtly feminine watches, with mother-of-pearl dials and gem-set bezels. However, these latest iterations are much more unisex, although there’s still a bit of bling on offer. This release encompasses three models: one in 18 karat 5N pink gold and one in 18 karat white gold, which are the first non-gem-set Traditionnelle watches to be offered in this case size, as well as an additional white gold model with a diamond-set bezel and lugs.
This Traditionnelle’s case design is all class, with a sophisticated stepped bezel, straight lugs and plenty of polished surfaces. Sometimes, less is more: there’s a confident elegance with its case design, which is quite function-forward, with small pushers for the calendar functions integrated into its sides. Water-resistance is stated at 30 metres, which is to be expected for this sort of watch.
The dials
All three models sport silver-toned opaline dials, which at first glance appear somewhat plain, but closer inspection reveals a pleasing matte texture with a slight sparkle. The pink gold model goes for a harmonious look, with its applied baton-style hour markers, classic dauphine hands and moonphase framing in the same material as its case. The gem-set white gold model follows suit with white gold details. However, the non-gem-set white gold model features contrasting pink gold details and a slightly lighter blue background for the moonphase. This gives this model something of a two-tone look, lending it a slightly more casual air.
As for the layout of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin’s dial, like the case, it’s pared back but by no means austere, with the calendar subdials and moonphase symmetrically laid out around the central pinion. The three calendar subdials feature extremely subtle azurage finishes, with clean and legible sans serif printed text denoting the date, days, month and leap year.
The straps
All three new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins come mounted on alligator leather straps with case-matching gold pin buckles shaped like Vacheron’s iconic Maltese cross emblem. The pink gold and white gold gem-set models lean into rich, dressy vibes with dark blue alligator straps, while the non-gem-set white gold is paired with a light brown alligator strap, which further reinforces its casual vibe (if you can call alligator and precious metal “casual”).
The movement
Within the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin beats the in-house calibre 1120 QP, which is based on one of the most celebrated and historically significant movements in Vacheron’s arsenal: the legendary calibre 1120, which has been in production since the 1960s and remains one of the thinnest automatic movements ever made. The 1120 is 2.45mm thick, and the addition of the perpetual calendar module only brings the 1120 QP to 4.05mm thick – or should I say thin?
It might only beat at 2.75 Hertz and offer a 40-hour power reserve, but it’s a beautiful movement, boasting the Geneva Seal and finished with côtes de Genève and hand-bevelling on the bridges; circular satin-finished sinks for the jewels and screws; polished teeth on the going train, and even has an open-worked rotor in the shape of a Maltese cross with a 22-karat gold outer segment. Naturally, being a perpetual calendar, it takes into account months of different lengths and leap years, and requires no manual correction until the year 2100.
The verdict
These three new Traditionelle executions really remind me of some of the perpetual calendars that Vacheron was making in the 1990s, and while they’re not as headline-snatching as some of the other releases we’ve seen from the Maison this year, like the revived steel 222, its La Quête du Temps Astronomical Clock or the Solaria, this is still an extremely strong trio of timepieces. This is one for the real connoisseurs: a Goldilocks-sized, understated but still complicated piece of ideal Genevan watchmaking, which represents a surprisingly fitting conclusion to a spectacular 270th anniversary year.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin pricing and availability
These three Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins are available now from Vacheron Constantin retailers. Price: A$164,000 (pink gold and white gold), A$172,000 (gem-set white gold)
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin |
| Reference Number | 4300T/000G – H106 (white gold) 4300T/000R – H107 (pink gold) 4305T/000G – H135 (white gold gem-set) |
| Case Dimensions | 36.5mm (D) x 8.43mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Silver-toned opaline |
| Strap | Brown or dark blue alligator leather strap, case-matching gold pin buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 1120 QP, in-house, automatic, Geneva Seal |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap-year indication), moonphase with moon age |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$164,000 (pink gold and white gold) A$172,000 (white gold gem-set) |