Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years with a blue steel 222
Borna BošnjakWe’re barely two weeks into the first month of the year, and Vacheron Constantin has already graced us with what could very well be the watch of the year. Following the release of the rich, yellow gold model, the historic brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025 in style, with a blue dial Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel. It carries all the signatures of its predecessors, such as the notched bezel and discreet Maltese cross embedded in the bottom right lug, but this time with a matte, powder blue dial. And as it just so happens, we had the pleasure of getting hands-on with the new steel 222 in our Melbourne Discovery Studio ahead of its official launch.
Having (fittingly) launched the 222 revival in 2022, it’s no surprise Vacheron Constantin chose to wait just a little longer to bring Jörg Hysek’s design to a new, steel variant. 270 years of history is an astounding amount, making Vacheron Constantin one of the oldest watchmakers around, and the oldest one with an uninterrupted history – and this is a fitting watch to kick off a year of 270th anniversary celebrations with.
The case
Given that the material here is the most significant novelty, let’s start there. The brushed finish is so fine that it almost appears to be media-blasted. I’ve sung the praises of Vacheron Constantin finishing before when it comes to titanium, and on this steel 222, it’s obvious that metal matters not. High polish is used sparingly and to great effect, circling the notched bezel and gracing the bevels of the mid-case. It’s particularly lovely on the tops of the lugs, where the bevel is at its widest as the case transitions, and slowly thinning out as it goes further out.
On the wrist, the steel 222 wears noticeably lighter than its solid gold counterpart, but loses none of the comfort given by its H-link bracelet. It wears larger than its 37mm diameter suggests, which makes sense considering the wide lugs and bracelet design, but certainly not so large to make it unwieldy, helped by the 7.95mm thickness. The sharp downward movement of the lugs makes the on-wrist fit all the more comfortable, as it immediately angles the bracelet around your wrist.
The dial
Blue has become somewhat of a signature colour for Vacheron Constantin in recent years, but that’s mostly thanks to its other integrated bracelet watch, the Overseas. It made sense for the brand to want to differentiate the steel 222, outfitting it with a flat blue dial that pairs wonderfully with the all-brushed finish of the steel case. The baton hands and markers, as well as the Maltese cross at 12, are all in white gold, giving them additional lustre that picks out the small polished portions of the case.
Like many other matte dials, this one cannot be fully appreciated until it’s seen in person. Rather than the depth of the lacquer of the Overseas, the matte blue of the 222 accentuates its thin profile, while the white gold appliqués do all the heavy lifting in terms of giving it dimension. Keeping in touch with historical accuracy, the 222 is just a two-hander with date, and Vacheron Constantin completely embraces the latter. Rather than shying away from it and sweeping it under an index at 4 somewhere, the brand frames the black-on-white date window in a white gold surround. Even the typeface of the date wheel is on-brand for its 1970s inspiration, with uniquely serifed numerals like this 7 being a standout.
The bracelet
As with any integrated bracelet watch, the experience would not be complete without, well, the bracelet. The 222’s is just about as good as it gets, with each link bevelled on the side, that signature line running down the shoulder of the whole assembly, meeting with the bevels of the case and finishing in an understated butterfly clasp.
As you can see, the links aren’t fully articulated, which gives the bracelet a reassuringly tight feel, but they have just the right amount of movement to make a wide range of wrists comfortable. The lack of bevels in between the links themselves makes for another neat light effect – as the links are so close together, they get this almost low-poly effect. While I’m not sure this is an intentional nod to its ’70s origins, it is a design quirk I can fully appreciate.
The movement
The architecture of the 222’s in-house calibre 2455/2 dates back to another anniversary year for Vacheron Constantin – in this case, their 250th – when it was introduced as the 2475. Its 22k 3N yellow gold rotor stands out against the steel backdrop, topping up a 40-hour power reserve of the 4Hz movement. Despite it being a full-rotor automatic, it manages to both retain a slim, 3.6mm profile and a respectable level of hand-finishing that’s necessitated for Poinçon de Genève certification. The highlight here, once again, is the rotor that mirrors the 222’s bezel, with a really lovely frosted finish for the majority of its surface.
One difference between the piece you’re looking at and the one that will make it onto customers’ wrists is that the production version will nod to the brand’s 270th anniversary with an engraving on the caseback. If you look carefully at the bottom left corner, you’ll see a tiny “270” inside a stylised Maltese cross. Naturally, this will only appear on 222s sold in 2025.
The verdict
I’ve already alluded in the introduction to how I feel about this watch. Among so many vintage re-releases, it takes something truly special to stand out, and the Vacheron Constantin 222 is a tribute done right. The powder blue dial is a stunner, especially with the glow of those white gold indices, and the case and bracelet are as good as they were on the yellow gold from 2022. I think it’s safe to say that the release of a steel variant comes as no surprise, and despite this expectation, and the 222’s high price of entry that (rightfully) rivals that of an AP Jumbo, I can’t shake the excitement of a new 222. If Vacheron Constantin’s 270th birthday present to itself is anything to go by as far as 2025 releases go, we’re in for a vintage year.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Steel pricing and availability
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is a boutique exclusive. Vacheron Constantin has confirmed that while it’s not a limited edition, it is a “limited production” model. Price: A$53,500, US$32,000, CHF 32,000
Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
Model | Historiques 222 |
Reference | 4200H/222A-B934 |
Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 7.95mm (T) |
Case material | Stainless steel, 18k yellow gold Maltese cross |
Water Resistance | 50 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Matte blue, white gold markers, hands, and logo |
Lug Width | Integrated |
Bracelet and strap | Steel H-link bracelet, butterfly clasp |
Movement | 2455/2, in-house, automatic, Geneva Seal-certified |
Power Reserve | 40 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, date |
Availability | Boutique exclusive, limited production |
Price | A$53,500 US$32,000 CHF 32,000 |