Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin team up for an unexpected collaboration we really should’ve expected

Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin team up for an unexpected collaboration we really should’ve expected

Borna Bošnjak
  • The UR-Freak is the brainchild of Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin, using signature time-telling and technology elements from both avant-garde manufacturers.
  • Urwerk’s signature satellite hours encircle a centrally positioned balance wheel and escapement, which rotate around their own axis in true Freak fashion.
  • Cased in a 44mm titanium case, the UR-Freak is limited to 100 pieces, with pricing to be announced.

When the news of a new collaboration pops up in my inbox, I’m usually eager to find out what the two brands cooked up together and how they’ve managed to justify their partnership. For the Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak, it was more of a “well, duh” – there’s something about the synergy between the two brands that just works. I didn’t even need to look at the press imagery and release to picture what a watch made by those two could look like, and I’m glad the final result doesn’t disappoint. In a nutshell, the press release puts the UR-Freak’s ethos concisely as “year 2000-era technology optimism, with advanced horological systems the world has never seen before”. Couldn’t have said it better myself, really.

urwerk ulysse nardin ur freak dial

This is the first time Urwerk and UN have partnered on a project, and the fruit of their labour is immediately obvious dial-side. Where you’d normally find the complex regulating system of the Freak One that doubles as the minute hand, you’ll find many of the 150 new components that had to be created to bring the UR-Freak to life. As any Urwerk collab worth its salt would have, the new UN-241 calibre (modified from the One’s UN-240) has been equipped with a satellite time display that has come to define Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner’s brand. The minutes are placed along the right-hand side of the “dial” – in case you want to check the time with the watch just peeking out under your shirt sleeve – but most interesting is that this is still a true Freak.

What does that mean? Well, Ulysse Nardin managed to modify the movement with a centrally mounted, silicone balance wheel, now geared to complete a rotation every three hours. The design constraints thankfully didn’t bring about any concessions when it comes to performance, either. The balance is actually 25% larger than on the Freak One, which should improve chronometric stability, beating at 3Hz for up to 90 hours. UN’s Grinder winding system is still present, as is the crownless design, where the caseback can be used for winding, and the bezel (lockable with the “UN-FREAK” branded clip at 6) adjusts the time.

urwerk ulysse nardin ur freak case

Whether it’s a Freak or an Urwerk, you should’ve expected the design to be out there and bold. At 44mm of sandblasted titanium full of facets, ridges, and indents, it most certainly is. In a rare turn of events, it’s a collaboration that successfully brings together two design ideologies that, despite perhaps having the same avant-garde goal, still take skill to combine. It goes further than just the physical shape of the case, too: the fluoro yellow used for the tips of the wandering hour hands and the strap is Urwerk’s frequently used Pantone 395 C, bringing a touch of familiarity.

I do have one single pet peeve with the design – and that’s the 1/100 plate screwed into the side of the case. I’m not a fan of alphanumeric case flank embellishments at the best of times, and think this could’ve happily lived on the caseback.

urwerk ulysse nardin ur freak caseback

The press release also notes 12mm of “perceived height”, which is watch marketing mumbo jumbo for “thicker than 12mm”. In all honesty, I’d usually complain about a watch being overly thick – but this isn’t a GADA, daily wearable piece. It’s an example of two brands collaborating on an extremely limited piece of haute horlogerie with a very complicated time display. I don’t think anyone would complain about it being overly thick, considering it has “Freak” in the name, but I digress. Speaking of its daily-able intentions, the UR-Freak does have 30 metres of water-resistance despite the complex case architecture, which means you won’t have to worry about those rainy days.

Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak pricing and availability

The Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Price: TBC

Brand Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin
Model UR-Freak
Reference Number 2413-500LE-2A-UR/3B
Case Dimensions
44mm (D) x 12mm (perceived height, whatever that means)
Case Material Titanium
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Box-domed sapphire front, flat sapphire back
Dial Open, gunmetal with fluorescent green accents
Lug Width Integrated
Strap
Fitted yellow rubber and black rubber straps, titanium deployant clasp
Movement UN-241, in-house, automatic
Power Reserve 90 hours
Functions
Satellite time display, flying carousel movement, Grinder Automatic Winding System
Availability Limited edition of 100 pieces
Price TBC