The Ulysse Nardin Royal returns with clear intentions
Buffy Acacia- Two new limited editions call back to a limited edition from 2010 — the Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue.
- The Ulysse Nardin Royal Sapphire uses lab-grown sapphire for its transparent components and lab-grown spinel for its translucent colour.
- The Calibre UN-79 features a unique winding system which helps to top up the 100-hour power reserve quickly and efficiently.
From marine chronometers that look the fantasy of an 18th-century sailor to high-tech displays of boundary-pushing watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin’s catalogues will never be straightforward for the layperson. Its latest release pursues a more creative field, specifically tying into mystery dials, and following up on a 14-year-old limited edition. The Ulysse Nardin Royal Sapphire manages to combine a transparent case and a translucent movement for the ultimate see-through luxury experience.
Mystery dials hit their peak of popularity in the 1940s, both in watchmaking as well as clockmaking. The rough idea was that the hands would be placed on transparent disks that were rotated from the outside edge, giving the illusion that the hands were moving with no mechanical interference at all. The 2010 version of the Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue Mystery Tourbillon was a limited edition of just 99 pieces and even retailed for the spicy price of US$1,000,000 on a bracelet of solid 950 platinum, set with diamonds all over. The new version is not only far more ‘affordable’ than that, but it’s adapted the look for a contemporary audience and has extended the transparency to the case.
Sapphire cases are slowly becoming more and more common, not just for their transparency, which plastic watches have been achieving since the ‘80s, but for their incredible hardness and thus, scratch resistance. The white sapphire that the Ulysse Nardin Royal Sapphire is made from is lab-grown in a large block before being precisely cut into the watch shape with the help of diamond-cutting tools and CNC machining. It captures a fun, novelty aspect without sacrificing quality or the weighty heft, which always feels luxurious. At 44mm, it’s certainly a statement piece, but the 12mm height keeps it relatively restrained and comfortable on the wrist. The water resistance rating is 30m, so you should try to avoid getting it wet when possible.
Although the Ulysse Nardin Royal Sapphire may not be a true mystery dial in the traditional sense, rather than getting the hands to float, the whole movement appears to be floating. The calibre UN-79 has been given white sapphire in place of some of its plates and bridges to appear completely invisible, while lab-grown spinel is used for the coloured portions. The Royal Sapphire Blue is self-explanatory, with its blue spinel adding contrast to the design and paying tribute to the 2010 edition, while the Sapphire Ruby makes things a little more complicated if you’re familiar with mineralogy. Ruby is now known to be the red version of sapphire with chromium impurities, but red spinel has been a common ruby impostor for centuries, even appearing on the English Crown Jewels from before jewellers could chemically tell crystals apart from each other. Still, it’s a lovely tone for a dial colour on an otherwise see-through dial.
The Calibre UN-79 is interesting in its own right, so it’s great to be able to study it from multiple angles throughout the case. It’s hard to miss the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which gently twists as though it’s falling from the sky. It beats at a frequency of 21,600 vph and has a huge power reserve of 100 hours. Winding that long power reserve up isn’t too difficult, though, as the crown is linked to a rhodium-plated brass ring that holds the entire movement in place. When wound, the ring spins and winds the watch easily.
Ulysse Nardin Royal Sapphire Blue and Ruby price and availability
The Ulysse Nardin Royal Sapphire Blue and Ruby are now available, with the Blue version limited to 18 pieces and the Ruby version limited to just 8. Price: US$328,300
| Brand | Ulysse Nardin |
| Model | Royal Sapphire Blue Royal Sapphire Ruby |
| Reference | 793.300 (Blue) 793.300LE-7A-RUBY/1A (Ruby) |
| Case Dimensions | 44mm (D) x 11.99mm (T) |
| Case Material | Clear sapphire |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Clear sapphire and coloured spinel |
| Strap | Black alligator leather |
| Movement | UN-79, in-house, manual wind |
| Power Reserve | 100 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Blue model is limited to 18 pieces; Ruby limited to 8. |
| Price | US$328,300 |