The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue brings a crowd-favourite hue into the lineup
Zach BlassThe word freak is defined as being something unusual, unexpected, or abnormal. On the one hand, calling something a freak of nature could mean something horrific, or the phrase can be a positive – used to describe overwhelming talent, like Olympic sprinter Usain Bolt. In the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry, making an abnormal watch can be very risky. But in the current marketplace, we are seeing watch enthusiasts praise brands for the unexpected and less conventional in contrast to saturated styles. This is why the Ulysse Nardin Freak, introduced over two decades ago, was ahead of its time, receiving formal recognition upon its win of the GPHG “Iconic Watch Prize” in 2023. One of the latest models to join the collection, the Freak One Navy Blue, introduces the fan-favourite colour into the collection in homage to its significant relationship with silicon – a high-tech, anti-magnetic material that made its debut in a watch with the original Freak in 2001.
The signatures that make the Freak a distinct icon can all be found in the Freak One Navy Blue, with a crownless, 44mm black DLC titanium case outfitted with a low-carbon-impact Carbonium bezel comprised of carbon fibre offcuts from the aviation industry. A setting device is embedded within the bezel, and the winding system is incorporated into the caseback, allowing you to easily, albeit unconventionally, wind and set the time.
Looking at the dial… Well… Technically, there isn’t one. As Ulysse Nardin would describe it, there’s no conventional crown, dial, or hands. What you are looking at is the movement: the 90-hour, automatic UN-240. Via its signature flying carousel, based on an idea born by Carole Forestier and further developed by Ludwig Oechslin, the movement makes a full rotation once each hour – serving as both a 60-minute tourbillon and a minute indicator. The hours are indicated via arrow pointer placed on the barrel cover – making a full rotation once every 12 hours. Some will confuse this barrel cover with a blue, sunray-engraved surface for a dial, but nope, it’s the movement.
The UN-240 is highly advanced and indicative of the manufacture’s mastery of materials, using an oversized silicon oscillator and balance spring, and an escapement wheel and anchor coated in proprietary DiamonSil that was patented in 2009 – a shorthand name for diamond-coated silicon. It also features Ulysse Nardin’s highly efficient Grinder winding system that leverages even the slightest movements of the wrist to wind the movement.
To match the dial, the 30-metre water-resistant watch is offered on a blue and black textured rubber strap made from 30% recycled waste, and is secured on the wrist via a case-matching deployant clasp.
You’d be hard-pressed to find a watch with this amount of innovation that had a significant influence on watch manufacturing beyond Ulysse Nardin. At US$66,800, I fully recognise this is not a watch most can afford, but those who can swing it stand to have something visually and technically fascinating on their wrist that is unlike anything else. In a homogenous marketplace of designs, that is not something I can say often.
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue pricing and availability
The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy blue is available now. Price: US$66,800
| Brand | Ulysse Nardin |
| Model | Freak One Navy Blue |
| Reference | 2403-500-3A/3A (ballistic rubber strap) 2403-500-3A/3B (rubber strap) |
| Case Dimensions | 44mm (D) x 13.37mm (T) |
| Case Material | Black DLC-coated titanium, Carbonium bezel |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal, front and back |
| Dial | Blue, engraved with sunray pattern |
| Strap | Rubber straps, DLC-coated titanium and black ceramic deployant buckle |
| Movement | UN-240, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 90 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying carousel |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$66,800 |