The Ulysse Nardin Blast Amoureuxpeintre hides a Skeleton X calibre behind smoky shadows
Borna Bošnjak- The open movement of the UN Blast Skeleton X has been hidden behind two frosted sapphire crystals.
- Recognisable features such as the oversized barrel and X-shaped construction of the in-house UN-371 calibre are still just visible.
- The collaboration is a limited edition of 29 pieces, priced at US$32,700.
For the latest example of a watch brand collaborating with an artist, we have a communion of two avant-garde minds – that of the watch manufacturer that brought us silicon and the Freak, and a minimalist designer whose designs have been worn by Gosha Rubchinskiy. While there’s every chance you’ll recognise Ulysse Nardin as the watchmaker, you might not have come across the work of Vsevolod Sever Cherepanov, or Amoureuxpeintre to his friends. The Bishkek-born Russian started his career modelling for the likes of COMME des GARÇONS and Junya Watanabe, before embarking on self-directed efforts through his eponymous brand, with all of his designs shrouded in an ultra-minimal sense, whether it’s clothing or household objects.
But this collaboration is no coincidence. His connection with Ulysse Nardin seems to have been brewing for some time, with Instagram wrist checks going as far back as 2021 and watches as a whole clearly being a significant part of his design influences. In a recent interview with Watches and Culture, he voices the importance of watches in numerous facets of life: “I organise my life around rituals and all that goes with them. Winding the watch is a ritual. Changing time zones on a watch is a ritual. The watch is a ritual.” I’m not surprised Ulysse Nardin picked him for a collaboration.
Let’s talk a bit more about the watch itself. Like a particularly well-fitting item of clothing (or undergarment set, if it helps paint the picture more clearly), the Blast Amoureuxpeintre’s smoked sapphire crystals merely allude to the beauty that hides beneath. The semi-skeletonised alpha handset is simple and outfitted with grey lume so as to not disturb the other elements, and branding is kept surprisingly minimal, even eschewing the usual Ulysse Nardin anchor from the logo. For a watch that’s usually so centred around fully exposing its movement, I think the design does just enough to not seem overly plain.
Though the diameter of 42mm might suggest a slightly larger-than-average watch, if the regular Blast Skeleton X is anything to go by, the Blast Amoureuxpeintre will be glad to sit on a larger wrist. The integration of the Alcantara strap adds precious millimetres to the nearly 50mm lug-to-lug, finishing in a case-matching PVD-coated titanium pin buckle. With a thin bezel and mostly featureless dial, the large size does bring up a dichotomy between it and the overall minimalism of the design. Sure, it’s unlikely to turn the heads of those used to vintage, sub-36mm watches (am I projecting too much?), but it is proof that a minimalist watch doesn’t need to be small and inconspicuous.
Though you can’t see it, the in-house UN-371 movement is certainly worth a mention. It’s manually wound, which usually helps with the illusion of its airiness, suspended in the middle of the case, and provides an impressive 96 hours of power from a single barrel. As is fitting for a brand that pioneered the use of the material, the UN-371 makes use of silicon in its escapement, with a full silicon balance wheel regulated with nickel weights placed around its perimeter, and beating at a leisurely 3Hz.
Ulysse Nardin Blast Amoureuxpeintre pricing and availability
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Amoureuxpeintre is a limited edition of 29 pieces. Price: US$32,700
Brand | Ulysse Nardin |
Model | Blast Amoureuxpeintre |
Reference | 3713-260LE-9A-SEVER/0A |
Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) |
Case material | PVD-coated titanium |
Water Resistance | 50 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front, frosted sapphire back |
Dial | Frosted sapphire |
Lug Width | Integrated |
Bracelet and strap | Grey Alcantara, case-matching pin buckle |
Movement | UN-371, in-house, manual winding |
Power Reserve | 96 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes |
Availability | Limited to 29 pieces |
Price | US$32,700 |