Black and white: how does the new Tudor Black Bay Pro Polar compare to the original?
Jamie WeissIt’s fair to say that a lot of watch enthusiasts have a real love/hate relationship with Tudor (as well as its bigger sibling Rolex). On the one hand, they criticise both these brands for being extremely conservative when it comes to introducing new products, bemoaning the fact that “all they do” is release different dial colours or subtle tweaks to existing watches, and people lose their minds about it… And yet will go on to lose their minds over a new dial! Case in point: the new white dial Black Bay Pro that was released at Watches and Wonders this year. My feeling on the ground is that more people were hyped about this new dial colour than actual new models from Tudor, like the Pelagos Ultra. Watch fans are a fickle lot, but I digress…
I feel slightly smug that I predicted that Tudor would indeed release a Black Bay Pro with a white dial this year. I was also bang-on predicting that this watch would have some subtle differences from the original black-dialled Black Bay Pro that came out in 2022, of which I am a very proud owner. Because it’s worth making that point: this new BB Pro variant is more than just a mere palette swap, even if it is an exercise in small changes. But what are they, and how do these two Tudors stack up against each other?
Common ground
To be absolutely clear, the two Black Bay Pro variants are functionally identical. They share the same case, same movement, same power reserve and same strap options. For those who need a refresher, it measures up at 39mm in diameter and a controversial 14.6mm tall; is powered by the in-house (but Kenissi-produced), COSC-certified, MT5652 true GMT movement with a 70-hour power reserve; and comes with three choices of wrist fastener: a jacquard NATO strap, a hybrid leather/rubber strap, and a faux-riveted bracelet with a T-Fit clasp.
It’s interesting, actually, that Tudor didn’t decide to move to pursuing Master Chronometer certification for the BB Pro with the introduction of the Polar when it seems that going forward, that’s the certification they’re going to pursue for all of their watches. I mean, if the Polar was METAS-certified while the OG BB Pro was ‘just’ COSC, that might dissuade consumers from opting for the latter, aesthetic considerations aside… Still, it would’ve been nice to see the BB Pro receive that upgrade.
That said, and I know this is totally anecdotal, but my BB Pro keeps better time than basically any other watch I’ve ever owned. When we’re bored in the Melbourne Discovery Studio, we sometimes put our personal watches through a timegrapher to see who has the most accurate watch, and I’m pleased to say that every time we’ve done that, my BB Pro has measured a mighty -0.1 seconds/day in multiple different positions on multiple different occasions. And I don’t baby my watch or anything; quite the opposite. Maybe I just lucked out with a very well-adjusted example, but this is all to say that COSC-certified chronometers can be plenty accurate.
Where each stands apart
The Black Bay Pro’s design is a bit of a pastiche. The original black-dialled model is a tribute to the original Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which was first released in 1971 and is nicknamed both the “Freccione” (or “Big Arrow”) as well as, confusingly, the “Steve McQueen”, despite the fact that the famous actor never publicly wore this watch. The ref. 1655 featured a relatively flat fixed steel bezel, plus a unique-for-Rolex dial and handset configuration with a distinct, oversized orange GMT hand.
The Black Bay Pro takes some of the design cues from the ref. 1655 and melds them with the general aesthetic of the Tudor Black Bay. It ditches the crown guard and Cyclops lens while utilising Tudor’s signature snowflake hands and circular lume plots. In comparison, the new Black Bay Pro Polar more closely resembles the Explorer II design introduced with the ref. 16550 (produced from 1985 to 1988) and popularised by the ref. 16570 (1989 – 2010). This is the design most commonly associated with the Explorer II today, namely a white dial with filled lume plots.
In fact, that is one of the major differences between the BB Pro launch model and the Polar: the OG uses blocks of luminous ceramic for its indices, whereas the Polar uses conventional, lume-filled plots. Additionally, the OG’s indices, hands and date window feature an off-white, aged look, while the Polar goes for a cleaner sheer white. Another difference: the OG has a yellow GMT hand (evocative of the discontinued Tudor North Flag), and the Polar has an orange GMT hand, which, counterintuitively, is more faithful to the ref. 1655 and the current Explorer II model, the ref. 226570. The OG also highlights its water resistance rating in yellow text, and the Polar doesn’t highlight it at all.
The biggest difference between the two dials is textural. Where the OG BB Pro has a matte finish, the Polar has a rather pronounced opaline effect that’s really quite sparkly – even more than the Black Bay GMT’s dial, although that could just be me. It’s very appealing, but it’s also a departure from the aesthetic of the extant Rolex Explorer II Polar, which is just glossy white.
The verdict, and my pick
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You might think this is a lot of waffle for just a new dial colour, but I hope I’ve convinced you that the new Black Bay Polar is more than just a yang to the original’s yin. Both models pay homage to different eras of the Rolex Explorer II, with the OG being much more of a retro revival, and the Polar presenting as a much more modern-looking watch. As for which one I’d pick? Well, I already own the original black dial model, but if the Polar was available in 2022 when I bought my BB Pro, I might have ended up with the white. It’s a bit more striking than the black – although I think the black is slightly technically more interesting thanks to its block ceramic lume indices. Or maybe that’s just a cope.
Actually, in some ways, the black dial BB Pro’s biggest rival within the Tudor range is the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time, which aesthetically hits some of those same faux-retro notes with its matte black dial and off-white indices but boasts a titanium case, a METAS-certified version of the same movement and a rotatable GMT bezel. Yes, it’s quite a different watch, but I think it’s a pretty compelling rival – whereas the BB Pro Polar stands apart as a more unique offering. Food for thought.
Tudor Black Bay Pro pricing and availability
The Tudor Black Bay Pro, with either a white or black dial, is available now from all Tudor retailers. Price: A$6,060 (on fabric or hybrid strap), A$6,540 (on bracelet)
| Brand | Tudor |
| Model | Black Bay Pro |
| Reference | M79470 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 14.6mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Weight | 86g (watch head) 165g (with bracelet) |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Matte black, vintage-tone block lume White opaline, white lume plots |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Straps | Jacquard NATO strap, pin buckle Hybrid rubber and leather strap, folding clasp Faux-riveted steel bracelet, safety clasp T-Fit |
| Movement | MT5652, Kenissi-made, automatic, COSC |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$6,060 (on fabric or hybrid strap) A$6,540 (on bracelet) |