Trilobe contrasts light and dark with the Nuit Fantastique Ombre and Lumière
Borna Bošnjak- French independent brand Trilobe presents two art brut-inspired takes on its Nuit Fantastique models in 38.5mm and 40.5mm sizes.
- With three distinct rings displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds, the Nuit Fantastique uses a modified Le Cercle des Horlogers micro-rotor calibre dubbed the X-Centric.
- Despite this well-finished and complicated approach, the duo is relatively affordable, priced at €10,800.
The idea of value is so horrifically skewed in the greater watch-collecting community that it has become difficult to actually recognise it when it is there, even with an asterisk or two. I’m firmly of the belief that Trilobe is one such brand, though once again very much contextualised in the realm of high-end watchmaking. The story isn’t one of a lonely genius who made the design come to life from smallest screw to assembled model, but Gauthier Massonneau knew well enough that even though his watchmaking skills may not be up to par, he had a great concept. Partnering with the likes of Chronode’s Jean-Francois Mojon, the Trilobe look was based on separating the hours, minutes, and seconds into three continuously rotating discs, also inspiring the brand logo. The Nuit Fantastique is the second generation of this idea, developed from Les Matinaux for better legibility, with the latest, highly contrasting Ombre and Lumière models being presented at this year’s Geneva Watch Days.
The current Nuit Fantastique collection has no shortage of size nor colourway options, spread across a wide cost spectrum. The Nuit Fantastique Ombre and Lumière settle in at the entry-level end, with grained dials and just a hint of guillochage on the inner of the small seconds ring that sports an azurage finish. Framing it and the minute aperture is a figure-eight silver frame, with vertical brushing on its top side and polished, bevelled edges. Despite the stark overall design, all the small elements are impressively well-appointed with intricate finishing.
As far as the art brut (or outsider art) inspiration goes, I’m guessing the connection stems from somebody from a non-watchmaking background now creating horological art. It must be said though, that Trilobe’s “art” is a far cry from the “unusual” works that define art brut, but perhaps I’m just not well-informed on the subject.
Another rarity for independent brands is having multiple case sizes for a single model. The Nuit Fantastique is available in grade 5 titanium cases either 38.5mm or 40.5mm in diameter, with a thickness of just 9.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 40.5mm and 45.5mm, respectively. Regardless of the size you choose, the slimness and compact lugs make sure the size isn’t dominating smaller wrists. This is especially important with a watch like this, having subtle features, no bezel, and a wide open dial, as it wears larger than its dimensions suggest. 50 metres of water-resistance is nothing groundbreaking, but it is enough to make this a Fantastique daily, and not just an occasional wear. Sorry, couldn’t help myself.
Quickly touching on the X-Centric movement that’s at the heart of every Trilobe model. You may recognise it as derived from the very popular micro-rotor architecture of Le Cercle des Horlogers (used by the likes of Alto and Louis Vuitton among many, many others), and you’d be right as the manufacturer currently handles, well, manufacturing. This is an upgrade from the Chronode module previously used on top of Sellita base movements, with an upgraded mainspring to provide the necessary torque, ticking at 4Hz for up to 48 hours.
On the finishing side, the X-Centric displays many of the same characteristics as Trilobe’s dials. There aren’t any obvious bells and whistles that jump at you right away, the brand rather opting for a modern monochromatic look and minimal decoration in the classical sense.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Ombre and Nuit Fantastique Lumière pricing and availability
The Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Ombre and Lumière models are now available in either 38.5mm or 40.5mm sizes. Price: €10,800 (~US$12,100)
Brand | Trilobe |
Model | Nuit Fantastique Ombre Nuit Fantastique Lumière |
Case Dimensions | 38.5mm (D) x 9.2mm (T) x 45.5mm (LTL) 40.5mm (D) x 9.2mm (T) x 48mm (LTL) |
Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
Water Resistance | 50 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Grained black or silver |
Lug Width | 20mm |
Strap and bracelet | Black leather, titanium pin buckle |
Movement | X-Centric, Le Cercle des Horlogers-developed, micro-rotor automatic |
Power Reserve | 48 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, and seconds rotating rings |
Availability | Now |
Price | €10,800 |