Toledano & Chan sends ripples across its range, reworking the cult B/1 with a surging solid gold dial
Tom Austin- Toledano & Chan have uncovered the latest evolution of their cult-hit brutalist bestseller, the b/1.3r.
- Breaking away from the convention of introducing simple tweaks, the b/1.3r features a full, solid gold dial, inspired by rippling water.
- The best news is that this rare, golden-dialled creation will be available in limited numbers from the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studios in London, Melbourne and New York.
It all started with a bright blue stone dial a couple of years ago. The Toledano & Chan b/1 launched with its oceanic-blue lapis lazuli dial, housed in an asymmetric case that was more a piece of brutalist art than a functional, wearable wristwatch. A watch inspired by contemporary architecture never looked quite like this; it took the watch world by storm, and while it would be easy to say that was purely down to how it looked, that is precisely the point. Excellent design is usually followed by instant cultural recognition, and the shape of the b/1 lodged itself firmly in our collective memory.
In that short, roughly two-year period, we’ve seen the b/1 evolve across into a carbon-fibre one-off, even a solid meteorite version, and explorations into dials made from mother-of-pearl and plated with 24-carat gold. Drawing on their artistic and design backgrounds, along with prototypes from the original development phase, founders Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan have continued to push the project forward. It is becoming increasingly clear that this destro disruptor is not going away any time soon.
Reaching into a manufacturer’s catalogue to select the next fashionable material has never been Phil and Alfred’s style. That approach has been done a thousand times before. It wouldn’t be very Toledano & Chan, now, would it? For the fourth release, it was originally sketched out to do a stone dial, but not only had they already been there, done that, and got the t-shirt… It also seems that everyone is doing that now, too. This is where the b/1.3r comes in.
Sitting intentionally askew in the now slightly smaller 32mm grade 5 titanium case, a striking 18-carat solid gold dial takes centre stage. Rather than echoing the prevailing design zeitgeist, Phil and Alfred chose to create something entirely new for the b/1.3r. Inspired by the ripples in water, the dial’s waved surface texture emanates from its left corner, bringing it to life as the unusual angles of the sapphire crystal refract the rippled appearance. Look even closer, and you see it’s not just a “basic” machined surface; the gold is puckered with tiny ripplets, mimicking the exact effect you’d see on the surface of a disturbed body of water. It may be small, but that’s what makes it beautiful; it’s not just the attention to detail in the effect, it’s the level of skill required to execute it so convincingly.
The case deserves equal attention. As I mentioned, it’s been resized slightly from the original by 1.5mm, which, on a watch like this, is relatively significant. Somewhat inspired by much smaller watches, the original b/1 was, on paper, a small watch, but the unusual asymmetric design gave it a slight hint of bulk and made it wear a fair bit larger than its dimensions suggested.
This 1.5mm reduction is only a subtle adjustment to the titanium case, and while it will also raise comfort levels, the now-iconic b/1 shape, with its integrated titanium bracelet, remains largely unchanged. The same can be said inside the case, too, as the b/1.3r houses the same Sellita SW100 automatic movement as before, well known for its solid reliability and 42 hours of power reserve.
Closing thoughts
For watches like these, it can be difficult to see where the next step may lead, but Toledano & Chan aren’t your everyday watch designers. Both are obsessed with subverting the ordinary, and that philosophy is evident here, with innovation focused on dial execution rather than superficial material swaps. Scarcity is also a deliberate part of the brand’s approach. Demand consistently outweighs supply, and the B/1.3r will be no exception. Numbers are limited, but for those keen to see it in person, the new release will be available to view at our Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studios in London, Melbourne, and New York City from the second week of February.
Toledano & Chan b/1.3r pricing & availability
The Toledano & Chan b/1.3r will be available directly from Toledano & Chan, and via our Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studios in London, Melbourne and New York City, from the second week of February 2026. Price: US$10,200
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| Brand | Toledano & Chan |
| Model | b/1.3r |
| Case Dimensions | 32mm (W) x 10.4mm (T) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | 18 carat solid gold ripple |
| Bracelet | Integrated titanium bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | Sellita SW100, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes |
| Availability | Limited production |
| Price | US$10,200 |