The Tiffany & Co. Eternity Wisteria takes inspiration from the brand’s iconic lamps
Zach Blass- The new Eternity by Wisteria Tiffany watch is inspired by the studio’s rare and coveted Art Nouveau lamps from the early 1900s.
- The creation of each watch requires over 150 hours of labour and uses 709 diamonds totalling 5 carats.
- Approximately 80 hours are devoted to the hand enamelling and assembly of the dial, and 70 hours are required to perform the snow-setting of the diamonds.
When brands that are not primarily known for watchmaking create watches, they tend to be dismissed by watch geeks. Furthermore, with the aspirational level high-jewellery watches play at, they do not necessarily get as much focus from a watch community focused on relative affordability and steel sports watches. Tiffany & Co. is undoubtedly an iconic brand, but as a watchmaker, it is misunderstood – often only on the watch community’s radar due to the retailer’s relationship with Patek Philippe. This powerhouse pairing may have begun in 1854, but by 1874, Tiffany had established its own manufacture and began to produce watches under its own name.
Enamelling and diamond-setting have long been signatures of Tiffany & Co., and over 200 years later, they continue to be the marquee elements of its creations. Having so much expertise in various areas of craftsmanship, Tiffany & Co. often looks to its own rich heritage of creations outside of watchmaking and reinterprets them in wristwatch form. The new Eternity by Wisteria Tiffany watch does just that, inspired by the studio’s rare and coveted Art Nouveau lamps from the early 1900s.
The Eternity by Wisteria Tiffany requires over 150 hours of work to complete each individual watch, with approximately 80 hours required to create and assemble the dial and 70 hours to perform the snow-setting of the diamonds throughout its design. Specifically, 709 diamonds are utilised throughout the watch, which amounts to a total of 5 carats. A signature of the Eternity collection is to showcase various cuts of diamonds for the twelve-hour indices on the dial, including round brilliant, baguette, cushion, Tiffany True, marquise, Asscher, and heart. These twelve indices alone account for 1.9 carats. Moving outward to the bezel, the 38mm white gold case has 59 diamonds set into its perimeter, totalling over 1.5 carats.
The crown, executed in the brand’s signature six-prong Tiffany engagement ring style, is set with a round brilliant diamond of over .42 carats. Lastly, the caseband, comprised of 627 snow-set diamonds set in eight different diameters, amounts to over a carat. Having held this piece in person, it felt like I was wearing a piece of the crown jewels. While I may not be drawn to diamond-set watches for my collection due to my personal style (and, who are we kidding, my circumstances), I can appreciate the artistry and visual result of this exquisite work.
The same can be said for its plique-à-jour enamel dial, executed in a Wisteria pattern to create a throughline between the watch and the beloved and highly collectible Art Nouveau lamps that date back to the 1900s. The transparent enamel, applied within metallic borders, creates the stained glass window-like effect seen on the lamps and no two dials that are manufactured are exactly the same – offering a piece unique sensibility.
Tiffany & Co. could have easily opted to stick a quartz movement inside of the watch, especially with a closed caseback. Instead, the brand has opted to utilise a Swiss 38-hour automatic made by LMT to bring a sense of mechanical romance into this 1900s-inspired design. With the LVMH Watch Division clearly more collaborative and synergised than ever before, I suspect Tiffany & Co. watchmaking will continue to be elevated – marrying its artistic mastery with the mechanical know-how of the brands within the group. For example, once Zenith industrialises Bulgari’s new Lady Solotempo automatic movement for use across the group, I suspect Tiffany & Co. will be first in line as a customer.
Tiffany & Co. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria pricing and availability
The Tiffany & Co. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria watch is available for inquiries and will be limited in production. Price: Upon request
Brand | Tiffany & Co. |
Model | Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria |
Reference | 74863434 |
Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) |
Case material | 18k white gold, fully diamond-set |
Water Resistance | 30 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
Dial | Plique-à-jour, 12 different diamond cuts for markers |
Bracelet and strap | Blue alligator leather, 18k white gold diamond-set pin buckle |
Movement | LMT2100, automatic |
Power Reserve | 38 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes |
Availability | Limited production |
Price | POA |