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EDITOR’S PICK: This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me…    EDITOR’S PICK: This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me…   

EDITOR’S PICK: This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me…   

Ricardo Sime

EDITOR’S NOTE: Ok, we admit we ran this story quite recently, but there’s a reason why it’s back in rotation already. This week, Grand Seiko announced that their 4 Seasons collection, that was previously only available in the US, is now being opened up to the rest of the world. These aren’t any watches either. As Ricardo explains in this story, one of the four pieces changed his view of Grand Seiko forever.

There are few brands that I respect more than Grand Seiko. For years, I’ve sat back and watched them grow their presence around the world with well-made timepieces and the precision of Spring Drive. They’ve successfully translated their design language into beautiful timepieces. Yet, this admiration has never made its way into the realm of acquisition. And one of the greatest hindrances to that transition has been their Zaratsu polishing. Though considered by many to be the brand’s greatest attribute, it has often times become a non-starter for myself. Just the thought of dozens of micro-scratches covering a Grand Seiko case gives me the heebie-jeebies.

With that being said, I was perfectly content in continuing to be a distant admirer. But after a meet-up with our Deputy Editor Zach Blass, that all changed.

This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me

On that day, Zach decided to wear his Grand Seiko SBGA413; the Spring watch from the brand’s U.S. exclusive four seasons collection. Whether he wore it as an afterthought or on purpose (we had just gone back and forth on my hatred for all things overly polished), I’ll never know. But what I do know is that the watch was absolutely stunning. It was everything I ever wanted in a Grand Seiko. The 62GS case, in titanium, perfectly marries brushed and polished edges in a ratio that I can admire. Here, the Zaratsu polishing is used as a trim and not the main attraction.

This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me

I immediately asked Zach to take the watch off and pass it my way. Once in hand, the lightness of the titanium was immediately noticeable. Its smoky grey colour, which at first glance seemed sporty, still managed to have a dressy appeal. I couldn’t try the watch on (a proverbial Grand Canyon separates our wrist sizes), however, the 40 x 47mm proportions seemed like they would work perfectly on my 7.5 inch wrist. And though I understand the apprehension many have with its lack of micro adjustment, I appreciated the bracelet and the small size of the clasp.

As I continued to drool over the watch, one thing became quite clear. The decision to case it in titanium and the light handed use of polishing brings more attention to the dial. Here, the light pink colour and the texture look amazing. At every angle, the watch takes on new life as shadows play with that texture and the angle of light transitions the color from light pink to light gray to white. Even the power reserve meter, which I often dislike on other Spring Drive models, works here, as a small, perfectly incorporated window bearing information on what’s going on inside.

This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me

After thirty odd minutes of drooling, I realized that this watch encompassed everything I had always wanted in a Grand Seiko. I know many a collector who has waited for what seemed like a unicorn reference, only for their hopes to be dashed year after year. Dozens of watches later and several years after being introduced to the brand, I am so encouraged by the idea that I’ve finally found a piece of theirs I loved.

After the meetup, I did some more research and found out that this isn’t the first time Grand Seiko has done the 62GS case in titanium. There were the references SBGA125 and the SBGA127 of 2015. There was a chance I saw both references in passing online, yet I can’t understate the value of being able to see Zach’s watch in person. It wasn’t until he showed me his, months old and still looking brand new, that I realised how much the watch had going for it.

This is the Grand Seiko that changed everything for me

Currently, the SBGA413 is a hard reference to purchase new, with authorised dealers quickly selling out of their stock. However, if you have had similar feelings as I have about Grand Seiko, I urge you to see one in person. As for myself, I hope to see the brand release more references in titanium with the 62GS case.