THE IMMORTALS: The retro-futurism of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic

D.C. Hannay

Rado has always been a unique company in the annals of Swiss watchmaking – a collision of heritage and high tech is how one could describe their ethos. Now part of the massive Swatch Group, the brand was launched in 1957, and soon began producing distinctive models that were unlike most everything else out there. Many of their designs fit right into what we now know as the Midcentury Modern aesthetic, including the highly polished, UFO-like DiaStar. Rado were also trailblazers in the use of unconventional materials, including the DiaStar’s ultra-hard tungsten case. More recently, they’ve gone full-bore into watches manufactured from high-tech ceramics. And they’ve done this while keeping their retail prices firmly ensconced in mid-tier luxury territory. Unlike big-ticket models from brands like Hublot, Audemars Piguet, Omega, and others, they’re effectively democratising ceramic as a watchmaking medium. Not content to keep the lightweight and scratch-resistant material strictly for dress watches, Rado now has a full line of tool watches made from ceramic, based on the iconic Captain Cook diver.

The original was introduced in 1962, and has long been recognised as a classic, but left the product line some time ago, until it was reborn in 2017 with the vintage-sized HyperChrome Captain Cook. Its 37mm case, throwback dial details (including the iconic swinging anchor logo), and box crystal were all note-perfect, and fans lapped it up. Bigger and more water-resistant models (up to 300 metres from 100) followed after that initial success, and the modern Captain Cook was now a full-fledged product line. But all this was just the warmup.

Cut to 2021, and the launch of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. The Swiss “Master of Materials” struck again, with a legit dive watch fully constructed of lightweight ceramic, a real coup at the retail price of just US$3,600. And when I say full ceramic, I’m talking about a ceramic bracelet as well as the 43mm case. If you’ve never experienced wearing a fully ceramic watch, you owe it to yourself to try one out, especially at this price. The only non-ceramic parts of the watch are largely structural, including the crown, bezel, and caseback. But what a stunner at this price point, when luxury brands were offering ceramic starting at about double Rado’s ask.

Water-resistant to 300 metres, the new Captain Cook featured a Rado 3R734 movement sourced from the Swatch Group, and offered a whopping 80-hour power reserve. The initial release saw black or grey ceramic offered, with black or blue bezels, and stainless or gold accents. One common feature was a translucent dial, constructed of smoky sapphire, which affords a view of the skeletonised movement beneath. The whole package was retro-futuristic, a forward-looking design that gave a subtle nod to Rado’s past. Yet again, the ceramic model launched was just a jumping-off point.

For 2022, Rado introduced six new references, now with more traditional dial choices of black, blue, khaki, and grey, some with a fumé effect.

The khaki model is especially striking to me, with its matching matte case and bracelet offering a real tactical vibe.

There are even new limited editions, with a fully white model that showcases a mother-of-pearl dial. A full dozen models make up the current lineup, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see more in the future.

Rado has really done something here in bringing full ceramic case and bracelet models to the masses at attractive price points, and it still strikes me to see the collision of the modern material with such a retro-looking model. I’m here for it, and look forward to what’s next for the brand.