The LeJour Seacolt Diver is a modern dive watch with vintage swagger

Fergus Nash

Although the name LeJour conjures up the idea of something fleeting and trendy, that portrayal of the brand couldn’t be further from the truth. The brand’s rich history began back in the 1960s when they also cased watches for names as big as Heuer and Yema. If you’re looking for a bargain in the world of vintage Swiss chronographs, then LeJour is a brand to look out for. But, if you’re in the market for a vintage-flavoured modern dive watch, then the reborn LeJour also has you covered with the LeJour Seacolt Diver.

The dial

The Seacolt brings together a nice mix of vintage design cues that look familiar but not derivative, and also maintain great legibility across all of its variations. Available in black, blue, grey, brown and green, each dial has a strong stippled pattern that evokes an aged feeling without being too kitsch. The hands are a blend between sword and cathedral shapes that carry a lot of elegance and offer great space for luminescence. The date window is neatly framed with the same rose gold as the bezel and other gilt details, integrating nicely at 3 o’clock and not feeling forced. The dial is also nice and spacious, given the only text being the LeJour logo, “automatic” above the 6 o’clock, and the “Swiss made” certification.

The case

The LeJour Seacolt’s case is classic design through and through, presenting as a kind of jumbo-sized 1960s skin diver. The bezel has a rose-gold PVD coating that really ups the charm of the watch, and marks it out as a fairly unique alternative to something like a Tudor Black Bay. The 42mm diameter is definitely felt on the wrist, but it’s still comfortably wearable for an average and just-below average wrist. The lug-to-lug length is a nice medium 49mm, and the bracelet end-links are fully articulated to conform as necessary.

In addition to the gilt bezel, there are a few other touches to the case that make this watch pretty special. The ceramic bezel inset is fully luminous with C3 Super-LumiNova, giving you a comprehensive after-dark view. The domed sapphire crystal and thin mid-section of the case give the impression of a much slimmer watch, even though the total thickness is 14mm. My favourite feature however is somewhat of a lost art in watchmaking, and that’s the artwork on the engraved caseback. The depth of the engraving is immense, and the details on the titular seahorse have come out amazingly. Although display casebacks can be the right choice on occasion, I really enjoy when a brand retains some mystery and invests in artistry.

The movement

Behind the ornate steel seahorse caseback, the LeJour Seacolt is powered by a Sellita SW200 automatic movement. The 38-hour power reserve and 28,800 vibrations per hour are derived from cloning the ETA 2824 movement and has recently been taking over ETA’s turf in the last few years. Not only are they slightly more affordable than the 2824, but they’re also more readily available since ETA had some restrictions put on their production to supposedly prevent a monopoly. The surge in usage has meant that more people are trusting their reliability and accuracy, too.

The verdict

LeJour might not have the same weight behind its name as some of the other resurrected Swiss brands, but what they do have is a knack for nailing vintage aesthetics at an attainable price point. The Seacolt retails at $850 USD, and is really competitive for what’s on offer. The bracelet has all solid links and plenty of micro-adjust holes, and the 200m of water resistance make it a no-brainer for pool days or any other water activity. Some of LeJour’s other watches in their catalogue have a quirkier flavour than the Seacolt, but this watch should prove to be an accessible style that opens up more eyes on the brand as they rebuild their legacy.

LeJour Seacolt Diver pricing and availability:

The LeJour Seacolt Diver is available now for purchase via the LeJour website here. Price: $850 USD

Made in partnership with Le Jour Watches. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.