INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition
D.C. HannayIf Grand Seiko is known for one thing only (and they’re certainly not), it’s their breathtaking dials, and their latest limited edition pushes that tradition further skyward with the release of the high-precision, quartz-powered SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. This light blue-dialled beauty showcases the brand’s exquisite finishing work, with an ethereal, pillowy texture that evokes the sea of clouds that often forms above the mountains near Grand Seiko’s manufacture in the Shinsu region of Japan. The SBGP017 is yet another stellar example of Grand Seiko’s craftsmanship, with fine details everywhere you look, so why not get lost in them for a few moments?
The Case
1967 saw the release of Grand Seiko’s 44GS, establishing the design language that defined the brand’s casework, and continues to do so today. The SBGP017’s case is a textbook example of the “Grand Seiko Style”, with its tasteful cocktail of finish work on full display. Gentle curves provide contrast from the multitude of flat surfaces and sharp edges. The signature GS Zaratsu polishing of the case and lug tops plays against superfine hairline-brushed edges, flowing seamlessly into the bezel. Measurements are tailored and trim at 40mm in diameter, 46.2mm lug-to-lug, and 10.7mm high. The watch should wear well on a wide variety of wrists, neither too big nor too small, but make no mistake, the highly polished casework delivers a room-commanding presence. The well-proportioned height in particular is noteworthy, affording a trimmer profile than many of Grand Seiko’s other models, due to the slimmer dimension of the quartz movement. A 19mm lug width provides a nuanced touch of refinement in that sweet spot between 18 and 20mm, but the odd size is a bit limiting for those who change straps on the regular. Thankfully, the case features drilled lugs, a welcome addition (or rather, subtraction), and one I wish more luxury brands would adopt. A sapphire-covered display back showcases the refinement of the high-end 9F85 Quartz movement.
The Dial
This dial should have no problem inspiring a nickname from Grand Seiko’s legion of fans. I’m personally rooting for the Wild Blue (as in wild blue yonder), or perhaps Little Fluffy Clouds (tip of the cap to the ‘90s ambient rave classic), although that one probably could benefit from a focus group. Once again, Grand Seiko has created a dial inspired by the natural beauty of Japan. I know the theme has almost become meme fodder at this point, but this dial truly lives up to the hype. Credit where credit is due for GS making this part of their brand identity, and there’s something to be said for staying in your lane when it’s such an enthralling aesthetic. Along with the cloudlike texture on the softly blue-coloured dial, the SBGP017 is pure Grand Seiko, with exquisitely polished dauphine hands and faceted indices, a nicely framed date window, and a blued second hand. The blue-coloured GS logo provides additional harmony with the dial. And in place of additional dial text, the lone touch of contrast comes by way of a small gold five-pointed star above 6. The significance? The star’s five points symbolizes the five second accuracy of the 9F85 Quartz movement (more on that in a moment).
Movement
As you might expect from Grand Seiko, the Caliber 9F85 quartz movement is anything but a bog-standard mass market commodity. The material execution alone (visible through the caseback) should be your first clue. As a brand known for its innovation in movement manufacture, traditional touches like Geneva striping, the implementation of jewelled construction (9 jewells in a quartz!), blued screws, and fine finishing throughout, while nearly unheard of, are typical of Grand Seiko. But the real story with the 9F85 is its astonishing accuracy, +/- 5 seconds per year. Per year. Let that sink in. That a movement, without any connection to a wireless network, atomic clock, or any other outside influence can achieve this level of accuracy is something of a minor miracle, and a real technological feat. For the curious, I recommend further reading at the GS site https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/movement/quartz. This type of obsession over detail in a quartz movement is found in few other places (most notably F.P. Journe), but if you’re going to build it, you might as well make it as good as it can be. Additionally, the movement is thermally compensated to account for temperature variances. It also features an anti-backlash seconds hand to eliminate shudder, and a truly instant date changeover at midnight. Another neat feature is the time difference adjustment function, which, in a nutshell, allows the wearer to jump to another time zone without stopping the second hand. For those who hold accuracy as a paramount virtue in a fine timepiece, the Grand Seiko 9F movements are something quite special.
Bracelet
The SBGP017 bracelet is typical Grand Seiko, a three-link affair, with centre links edged with Zaratsu-polished stripes flanking the hairline brushing of the top surface. The links’ edges are also polished, and the bracelet as a whole is a well-executed blend of finishing, classy enough to dress up, but not so fussy that it can’t function as a perfect weekend companion. Security is provided by a three-fold push button clasp.
Verdict
The SBGP017 deftly straddles the line between dress and sport with its balance of robust-yet-elegant construction, near-perfect dimensions, and typically exquisite Grand Seiko workmanship. You can easily get lost in the clouds, so to speak, gazing at that wonderfully textured blue dial, and the build quality and accuracy of the Caliber 9F85 movement is nothing short of jaw-dropping. At this point, quartz should no longer be a dirty word among watch enthusiasts. With all this on offer, and the continued heat in the marketplace for lighter-shaded blue dials, I’d expect the limited edition of 2,000 might sell out rather quickly, so don’t sleep on this one.
The Grand Seiko SBGP017 pricing and availability:
The Grand Seiko SBGP017 is a limited edition of 2000 pieces and costs $3800 USD
Case Material – Stainless steel, Zaratsu polished and hairline brushed
Diameter – 40mm
Lug-to-lug – 46.2mm
Height – 10.7mm
Lug width – 19mm
Water resistance – 100 metres
Dial – Blue textured
Crystal – Dual curved antireflective sapphire, sapphire display back
Bracelet – Brushed/polished stainless, three-fold clasp
Movement – Grand Seiko Caliber 9F85, +/- 5 seconds/year, 3-year battery life
Price – $3,800 USD