The Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition is anything but a “fashion watch”
Zach BlassOver the last decade, we saw many houses, typically associated with fashion, accessories, and other items beyond the scope of watchmaking, make big strides to try to distance themselves from being grouped into the segment of what watch collectors would describe as “fashion watches”. There was a knowledge and know-how arms race, with Maisons seeking to bring watchmaking skills in-house. And despite the scepticism of watch snobs, the same brands known for couture, cologne, and handbags have become the most interesting brands to watch – whether breaking ultra-thin records, taking home countless GPHG prizes, or using their strong outside lenses to bring actual novelty to novelty launches. Chanel is one of those brands whose fame and respect were built outside of the watchmaking world, but it is pieces like the Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition that prove dismissing watchmaking from a brand like Chanel is a form of reckless ignorance.
Chanel has invested heavily in watchmaking, acquiring a 30% stake in Kross Manufacture, a 25% stake in MB&F, a 20% stake in F.P. Journe, a 20% stake in movement maker Kenissi, a 49% stake in Bell & Ross, a minority stake in Romain Gauthier, and a full acquisition of G&F Châtelain. All of the collective knowledge shared from this group of brands has immense value, with a diverse sense of watchmaking design and skillsets. And with all of this knowledge flowing into the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, it creates a dynamic in which a wealth of watchmaking knowledge is distilled distinctly with Chanel’s sense of aesthetic, creating pieces that follow the brand’s unimpeachable sense of look and fashion without any sacrifice to the level of watchmaking offered.
The case
Looking at the brands and manufactures Chanel has invested in, it should be no surprise that Chanel is exceptionally skilled in forging ceramic cases. Rather than going the route of PVD or DLC, the Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition is housed in a 42mm case crafted from highly-scratch resistant matte black ceramic with mirror-polished accents for subtle injections of contrast and elegance. Ceramic absorbs light differently than metal, so the case is less reflective and more sleek and stealthy in its look. Despite being a tourbillon watch, the case is slender thanks to the movement being only 5.9mm thick.
The dial
The dial continues the matte black appeal of the case, with offset and interwined chapter rings harmoniously conveying the hours, minutes and small seconds from top to bottom. Select key components are visible from the dial side, with the keyless works allowing you to see what happens as you wind the watch, along with the gear train that drives the hands.
Whereas the main dial plate is matte in its texture, the rings framing various dial components are radially brushed. Within the smaller seconds display, you can watch the flying tourbillon in action. A laser-engraved titanium lion head plate finds itself in the centre, with a triangle indicator at the top that offers a legible means of discerning the running seconds.
The strap
I know it is strange to describe a strap in such an aggressive, non-watch-technical-language sort of way, but this strap is just sexy. It is a strap you would never really expect from another watchmaker, yet it fits perfectly within Chanel’s aesthetic. A distinct advantage of the House. The black nylon strap with a black calfskin leather trim is a perfect match with the future-forward, chic aura of the overall watch design, and adds a little extra spice to a component that could have easily just been a standard black calfskin leather strap. I think it looks phenomenal, and now that I have seen this configuration, I could not imagine any other strap looking better on this watch. It is secured to the wrist with a distinctly shaped, case-matching triple-folding buckle.
The movement
The exhibited movement, though not adorned with traditional finishing, expresses the same handsome, modern design sensibility as the dial and case. The combination of matte, radially brushed, snailed, and chamfered surfaces results in a toned-down look that still feels luxurious and on-brand. A 72-hour manually-wound flying tourbillon movement, the calibre 5.1 movement is “manufactured entirely in-house by Chanel.” By no means a simple or ordinary calibre and one of many testaments to Chanel’s watchmaking capabilities.
The verdict
As a limited edition of 55 pieces, from a brand like Chanel, boasting a high-complication (a flying tourbillon), I know its price upon request is at a level most cannot afford. But, for those who can, the Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition is an excellent means of acquiring a timepiece that incorporates proper watchmaking without being bound by the conventions and traditions most high-end watchmakers are restrained by. As I alluded to before, this watch is built with top-notch components that will satisfy watch nerds while also delivering something that is 110% distinctly Chanel (and all the more handsome for it). I really appreciate that watches like this exist, as it brings watchmaking centre stage to a broader audience without alienating or coming short of what watch snobs would demand from such a piece like this.
Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition pricing and availability
The Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition is available now as a limited edition of 55 pieces. Price: upon request
| Brand | Chanel |
| Model | Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) |
| Case Material | Black ceramic, black-coated steel crown |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black, openworked elements |
| Strap | Black nylon strap, black calfskin trim and lining, black-coated steel triple-folding buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 5.1, in-house, manually-wound |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited to 55 pcs. |
| Price | Upon request |