The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why…Borna Bošnjak
Responding to the admittedly fair criticism of offering a sports watch with just 30-metre water-resistance , Bulgari created the S line, with a slightly thicker steel case and screw-down crown, upping the water resistance to 100 metres. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered opts for an exercise in supreme subtlety, as the dials adopt the sublime brushing the Octo Finissimo case is well-known for. Andrew went up-close and personal with the Octo Finissimo S and the Chronograph GMT, his excitement quickly apparent in the video review below.
Striking silver surfaces
The dials of the Octo Finissimo S silvered are clearly the biggest development for the releases. Where the previous models used inky black and sunburst blue dials, the vertically-brushed dials of these new models are reminiscent of the tonal titanium pieces seen in the very first release of the Octo Finissimo in 2017. On the Chronograph GMT, Bulgari opted for applied indices and Arabics that echo the finish of the dial, while the crisp printing of the sub-dials and minute track offer legibility and contrast.
The time-only model opts for polished steel highlights throughout, matching the Bulgari script above the pinion, with an impressively clutter-free dial. While off-centre sub-seconds often arise as a topic of debate, I find it giving charm to the otherwise slightly sterile nature of the watch – surely due to the golden ratio or the rule of thirds or something – even Zach, who’s tourb is normally tweaked by this, agrees with me!
Subtly souped-up specs
When the Octo launched in 2014, its design and horological chops impressed many – its only potential pitfall the negligible water resistance. Bulgari sought to remedy this with the 2020 introduction of the Octo Finissimo S, rendered in steel, combining brushed and polished surfaces more in line with traditional luxury sports watches, and most importantly, offering 100 metres of water resistance. It came at a slight cost in terms of thickness, though if you’re complaining about 6.6mm in height, you don’t have enough problems in your life.
The Octo S measures in at 40mm in diameter and 48.4mm lug-to-lug, along with the aforementioned 6.6mm thickness. It’s slimness, combined with the supreme articulation of the bracelet makes for a large, yet comfortable experience on-wrist. The Chrono GMT, on the other hand, brings more significant wrist presence. While Bulgari claims it measures in at 43mm, the chrono pushers which form a part of the architectural case increase that to 47mm. Combined with a 53.7mm lug-to-lug size, its a sizeable proposition for any wrist circumference.
Showing svelte savoir-faire
Flipping over the Octo Finissimo S, we see the BVL 138 movement, beautifully decorated with Geneva striping and perlage. It fills out the caseback as one would expect from a watch of this calibre, though I can never not look at the teeny-tiny balance wheel nestling in near the crown. At only 2.23mm in thickness, it still offers an impressive 60 hours of power reserve.
The Chronograph GMT does away with a micro-rotor, instead going for a peripheral one to conserve height, with Geneva striping and circular brushing of the gear train. At 3.3mm, the BVL 318 is the thinnest chronograph in the world, while offering a GMT complication and 60 hours of power reserve.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered pricing and availability:
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered and Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT are available now. Price: $19,100 AUD and $26,100 AUD, respectively.
|Octo Finissimo S Silvered
Octo Finissimo S Silvered Chronograph GMT
|40mm x 48.8mm x 6.6mm (Finissimo S)
43mm x 53.7mm x 8.75mm (Chronograph GMT)
|Sapphire crystal, front and back
|Vertically brushed silver
|Integrated stainless steel bracelet
|BVL 138, micro-rotor, 60-hour power reserve (Finissimo S)
BVL 318, automatic chronograph GMT, 60-hour power reserve (Chronograph GMT)
|$19,100 AUD (Finissimo S)
$26,100 AUD (Chronograph GMT)