The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 is a true modern classic
D.C. HannayWelcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out.
Introduction: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
There are watch collectors who tend toward the familiarity of the classics. Stalwarts like the Submariner, the Tank, the Speedmaster, the Datejust, and many more, are blue-chip pieces for certain, and any of these could be the cornerstone of a rock-solid collection. Then there are collectors whose tastes have progressed to another level, into the realm of haute horology, where immaculate dial and casework meet fully in-house movements, rife with elaborate hand decoration. This is rarefied air for most of us, but for the deep-pocketed who dare, you’ll likely find something from Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne in their collection, and that something is probably their iconic Lange 1. From that instantly recognisable deconstructed dial, to the insane level of detail in their in-house calibres, Lange watches are on another plane altogether, and although the brand’s roots go back to the 19th century, it’s rather unbelievable that this watch has existed for less than 30 years. So how did the Lange 1 scale these heights in such a short time? Buy a hat and get ready to hang onto it, my friend.
Early History
The A. Lange & Söhne story begins in 1845, when Ferdinand Adolph Lange founded his company in Glashütte, Germany. Born in 1815, as a young man he received technical schooling in Dresden, including watchmaking from his future father-in-law. He later made his way to Paris (then a centre of fine watchmaking) for further instruction before returning to Germany. After marrying the boss’ daughter, he lobbied the Saxony government to help in establishing his own watchmaking workshop in Glashütte.
Along the way, he is credited with many innovations, including early adoption of metric measurements in watchmaking, new tools, and new manufacturing methods. As a result, his timepieces were revered far and wide, with members of the Russian royal family as some of his biggest fans. And with the advent of railroads, precise timekeeping became more important than ever. Eventually, his two sons joined him in the family business. Upon his death in 1875, his sons continued making some of the most highly regarded timepieces of the era. Some of their finest work includes this pocket watch given by Kaiser William II to the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire.
Future generations of the family continued the tradition of technical innovation and exceptional craftsmanship, with the astounding Grand Complication No. 42500 as a prime example. Created near the turn of the 20th century, it featured a chiming movement, a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph with flying seconds and 60-minute counter, as well as a moonphase display and perpetual calendar.
The next generation of Langes, Walter, was set to follow in his great-grandfather’s footsteps when he attended watchmaking school in 1941. Sadly, the Lange family business wasn’t destined to last, as World War II ravaged Europe. The Lange factory’s main building was destroyed by bombing on the last night of the war. He was determined, but the Soviet occupation in 1948 put a stop to his dream of becoming the next watchmaker in the Lange family, and the brand effectively ceased to exist.
Rise To Fame
After the fall of the Berlin wall and the reunification of Germany in 1989, Walter Lange, with the guidance of watch industry veteran Günter Blümlein (who helped revive IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre), set upon bringing back his family’s business. A. Lange & Söhne was reintroduced to the world in 1990 as part of the Blümlein-helmed LMH Group, which included both IWC and JLC. A. Lange & Söhne created four prototypes, including the Arkade, Lange Tourbillon, Saxonia, and the original Lange 1, introducing them in 1994. LMH later became part of the giant Richemont Group (parent company of Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai and others) in the year 2000.
The world hadn’t seen anything like the Lange 1 before. The gold 38.5mm case was the stage for A. Lange & Söhne’s creative expression, looking both antique and modern all at once. And this is a watch that is guaranteed looks by everyone who sees it.
At a casual glance, the Lange 1’s dial might appear to be a fragmented, scattershot design, but it’s remarkably balanced. In fact, it’s based on the golden ratio, with the placement of the time, running seconds, power reserve, and the distinctive outsize date forming an isosceles triangle.
Another interesting note: the date window display is modelled after the Semper opera house clock in the city of Dresden, which was designed by Ferdinand Lange’s watchmaking instructor, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Gutkaes produced the clock in his workshop, along with Lange and his other students.
The outsize date instantly became the visual calling card of the Lange 1, and graced the dials of other Lange models as well. As the Lange 1 range grew over the years, the challenge became adding complications to other variants without destroying the design language of the original, and Lange has been largely successful in that regard. The original design was considered polarising by some, but is now regarded as a classic. And combined with the exquisite craftsmanship of the dial, casework, and Caliber L901.0 in-house movement, it’s little wonder the Lange 1 reached iconic status. Several variants have followed, and in 2014, the original Lange 1 received an update just in time for its 20th anniversary. The improved L121.1 movement was on display behind a sapphire caseback, resplendent in all its engraved, bejewelled, and bevelled glory.
Visually, the new Lange 1 was largely the same as the 1994 original, and rightly so. Apart from some minor tweaking of the dial lettering, this is one of those instances where someone got it very right the first time.
The modern Lange 1 range currently consists of 13 separate models, each with variations within. I’ll explore some of my favourites below.
Famous Wearers
Boutique watchmaker Philippe Dufour, no slouch when it comes to high horology, wears an A. Lange & Söhne as one of his personal watches. If that’s not an endorsement, I don’t know what is.
Musician Ed Sheeran has a watch addiction rivalling Imelda Marcos’ shoe habit. Among his varied collection is an A. Lange & Söhne.
Michael Jordan, basketball GOAT and one of two NBA players to have actually travelled to space with cartoon characters, has at least one A. Lange & Söhne in his GOAT-level collection.
Favourite Models
I’ll admit to not really getting the Lange 1 at first glance. I was all like, “what is the deal with this Ye Olde Steampunk clock for the wrist?” But after seeing a few at various meetups and retailers, the design language all made sense. Below are a few that I’ve fallen for (see the full lineup here).
My choice for the OG Lange 1 dial layout is an ultra-clean, super-tasty platinum reference. As befits such an under-the-radar piece, the dial is solid silver, and the hands and indices are solid rhodiumed and white gold, respectively. Not the least bit flashy, the look is nearly monochromatic, but you’ll know. Oh, you’ll know.
Here’s something unexpected: A lumed high-horology dress watch. Full disclosure: If I were cast as a supervillain in an Austin Powers movie, there’s a 100% chance I’m blurting out “I LOOOOVE LUUUUME”. Anyway, this looker has a 41mm platinum case, a partially transparent sapphire dial that shows off the movement, a moonphase display, and yes, glorious, glowing lume.
The Little Lange 1 may only be 36.8mm in diameter, but that just makes it available to a bigger audience of smaller wrists. And this one’s all about the retina-searing beauty of the guilloched dial. The dial commands enough attention in more conservative colours, but in this positively lurid purple, it’s utter horological scandal.
A perpetual calendar complication is one of the more difficult landings to stick in watchmaking, but this one, with an added moonphase display peeking through the lovely pink gold dial, is a triumph of harmony. The 41.9mm white gold case really allows the glory of the dial to pop as well.
We have officially taken the next level to the next level. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is a platinum execution of the original Lange 1, with the added visual Sturm und Drang of a tourbillon. Fun fact: A. Lange & Söhne is so baller, they don’t even display the tourbillons on many of their dials. But forget that noise. If I’m paying “price on request” dollars for my watch, you’d better believe I’m getting hypnotised by that tourbillon every chance I get.