Building the Shield: the Time+Tide team picks our three-watch Tudor collections for 2025
Time+TideWe’ve covered Tudor relentlessly over the past 12 months — from on the ground at Watches & Wonders Geneva to hyped releases like summer’s Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” or the F1-connected Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”. Then, we announced our Tudor x Time+Tide Library & Lounge collaboration, a four-month residency that’s brought the full Tudor catalogue into our London Discovery Studio. Now, the team weighs in: if you could only own three Tudors in 2025 (and beyond), which would they be? It’s a job made easier now that we’ve got a bunch on-hand to play with in London, but as you’ll see, our contributing writers all have a slightly different take on the perfect Tudor trio.
Jamie: Black Bay Pro, Pelagos Ultra, 1926 Luna
For me, a three-watch collection – regardless of the brand or constraints – needs to have something sporty, something dressy, and something you can wear every day. When it comes to the latter, the Black Bay Pro absolutely fits the bill there as far as I’m concerned… Indeed, my Tudor Black Bay Pro is the most worn watch in my collection, and I do wear it just about every day! Its GMT complication makes it a valuable tool for coordinating with the rest of our global Time+Tide team, while its fixed steel bezel gives it a sense of robust elegance (despite being unequivocally a tool watch) that makes it sartorially versatile, as does its matte black dial. And yes, I prefer the black over the new “polar” dial.
As for the other two watches in my hypothetical three-watch collection, the Pelagos Ultra is the obvious sporty candidate. As good as the standard Pelagos and Pelagos 39 are, I feel as if they’re just a bit too similar to the Black Bay to justify having one from each model family in my collection. However, the Pelagos Ultra differentiates itself from every other Tudor in the brand’s catalogue with both its 43mm diameter and its impressive 1,000 metres of water resistance. It’s not a small watch, but being titanium, it’s not too heavy on the wrist. It’s the most technical version of Tudor’s sportiest dive watch, which appeals to me.
Lastly, I’d round out my Tudor trio with another 2025 release: the champagne-dialled 1926 Luna. The first Tudor with a moonphase complication, it’s the dressiest Tudor we’ve seen in a while – that said, the blue and black dial variants are arguably dressier, but the champagne is easily the most distinctive variant. I like the juxtaposition between the traditional moonphase and the blacked-out sword hands, indices and date wheel, which gives this 1926 Luna a contemporary edge.
Tom: Pelagos LHD, Pelagos FXD Chrono, Black Bay Pro “Polar”
I wear watches on my right wrist, so an everyday destro watch is a handsome prospect. A tool watch I can wear with the crown in the correct position for me feels great, so the Pelagos LHD fits the bill just right. But it goes a little deeper than that, because when I see these LHD models, I think of Tudor’s military history and the special military-issued divers they made that went on the wrists of special forces divers back in the day. There’s something special about having something that doesn’t appeal to everyone.
The weekend is when I’m at my most active. If I’m not at the gym or mountain biking, I’m wizzing around the Worcestershire countryside on my motorbike, so I need something light, comfortable and reliable on my wrist. The Pelagos FXD Chrono is ideal thanks to its lightweight carbon fibre case and supple fabric strap. It can fit under the gauntlet of a motorcycle glove, or it’s perfectly happy when it’s covered in mud or rain. I probably like to think I’d use the chronograph while riding, but in reality, I’m too old and usually too focused on not crashing to bother. It’s cool to have either way.
Last but not least, the drinking buddy watch: this is the watch I’d be wearing for those relaxed social occasions. Yes, the Black Bay Pro is an exceptional outdoorsy, explorers watch, and that’s great, but for me, the fun really begins after the hike, when you’re wrapped up warm in front of a roaring fire in the pub, sinking a couple of well-earned beers. In this sort of setting, it’s relaxed, it’s not trying too hard, it’s not your regular “Sub-style” tool watch. It’s the sort of watch that makes friends say, “Oh, is that a…. oh wait..?” Having owned a black dial BB Pro in the past, it is one of those watches I regret selling, so when we finally got the opaline dial version this year, the Black Bay Pro started calling me again, seeing as I don’t currently own a modern white-dialled watch.
Zach: Black Bay 54, Black Bay Chrono “Pink”, Black Bay 58 Gold
My Tudor must-have has been the Black Bay 54 since it first made its debut. It was love at first sight, though I have yet to bring one into my collection… That said, I feel confident in saying it is not a matter of if I buy one, just when! At 37mm, it is the perfect size for my smaller wrist, and, as I have said before, it is the closest thing you can get to owning a Sean Connery-esque Bond watch without splashing six figures on an actual Submariner ‘Big Crown’. Factor in its T-fit micro-adjust clasp, ample 200-metre depth rating, and COSC-certified manufacture calibre, and I cannot think of a better, more value-driven vintage-flavoured modern dive watch than the BB54.
Initially, my second Tudor pickup would have been the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time, which I had the pleasure of trialling for a week for my hands-on review. Spoiler alert: I was very much about it and was surprised at how well it wore even on my 6.5-or-so-inch wrist. However, I need colour diversity in my Tudor trio, and ultimately not wanting three Black Bay dive watches in my trio (because clearly the BB58 Burgundy is a natural pairing with my signature sunglasses), I think having a Black Bay Chrono Pink would be a strong way to bring some fun and flair into the collection. At 49mm lug-to-lug, the 41mm watch is not too big for my wrist, and with T-fit, again, I know I can find my perfect fit too.
Go big or go home, so I am going full gold. Tudor’s full 18k yellow gold take on the Black Bay 58 was a bit of a shock when it came a year or so after the initial version sold on a fabric strap bundled with a leather strap. Tudor’s muted take on gold intrigues me, with all aspects of the watch, even the typically bevelled lugs, satin-brushed. Very tooly yet precious, and, in this imaginary world where money is no issue, I am fulfilling my dream of having a full gold watch, case and bracelet, in my imaginary three-watch Tudor collection. I also enjoy the green colour of the dial and bezel, and, once again, with its T-fit clasp and 200-meter depth rating, it can be worn as daily as I would like.