IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past
Thor SvaboeAs a watch journalist in 2020, based in Europe under the draconian rule of the pandemic, it’s easy to lose perspective and here is a particular example. Despite my missionary preachings and personal taste, 38-39 millimetres is not the Goldilocks size for everyone. So, with this self-realisation in mind, the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection is pitch-perfect for most buyers at 42mm.
And there is not a shadow of a doubt that these four strong contenders from La Chaux-de-Fonds are likely to hit a sweet spot as modern takes on a stone-cold classic.
The four references here are based on the same classic Carrera case, yet show just how much colours, accents and strap choices can transform your wrist-worn favourite. The Carrera DNA is as resilient and adaptable as ever in 2020, in these four sleeker, more suit-ready takes on the larger more muscular Carrera Sport Chronograph collection.
The case
We have seen the iconic shape before, echoing the heyday of the sports chronograph around 50 years ago, sharpened yet familiar. The recognisable Carrera case remains perfectly proportioned, which is surely its calling card. Aesthetics. Balance. And balance is more prominent in the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection than the Chronograph Sport, with a dynamic between dial and case body underlined by the slim, smooth bezel.
It plays well with the faceted, angled lugs, and the play of light is delicate in the well-defined brushed body with its polished top. Purposeful-looking pushers and a large tool of a crown toughens up the elegant image just so. Everyday solidity is ensured by a sapphire crystal and caseback, and a 100m depth rating. Once again running the risk of contradicting myself, if you love the classic 160th Carrera but have a more manly wrist than me and a more slender wallet, then yes this is a classic, medium-sized alternative packing a proper punch.
The dials that make all the difference
The four references are infused with just the right balance of sports and elegance, the perfect mix in a 2020 of tuxedos with steel sports watches popping out of the cuff, rather than a delicate slim gold watch. So far so perfect, and the four references sit securely on a four-tiered ladder of elegance, starting with the toughest looking one in the group, with the pure monochromatic elegance of black and steel.
Reference CBN2010.BA0642 is a classic sports watch, and the closest you’ll get to a modern-sized version of a vintage Heuer Carrera, and comes on a solid H-link brushed steel bracelet with polished centre links sweetening the deal. The dial is clean and minimalist, framed with a sharp minute track on the rehaut signifying its sporting intent. My favourite touch is the pared-back register at 6 for the running seconds, making the dial take on the look of a Bi-Compax chronograph. The way the date window sits a smidgen over the 6 o’clock indice is pure genius, underlining the strong sense of balance. The two chrono registers sit recessed at 3 and 9, a clean ’60s vibe imbued by crisp silver white print. Polished baton hands and a needle chronograph seconds have a purposeful elegance, matched by applied indices. The dial remains legible through the darker hours with generous application of Super-LumiNova to the traditional baton hands, while the indices have discreet lume plots on the outside.
Reference CBN2011.BA0642 and CBN2012.FC6483, with their blue and grey sunray dials, add to the elegance quotient, with a more eye-catching background to the Carrera name and exquisite TAG Heuer shield. Both references are still emanating a sporty vibe, the bright blue dial in some lights winking at us with a delicious hint of purple. Still tough on its purposeful slender bracelet, but with a touch of flash. The grey sunray version has the same price, and looks ready to pop out from a crisp white Italian shirt cuff. The grey sunburst brushed tone is quite a light tint with silver in the mix, lending a formal feel to the proceedings, with a well matched chocolate brown crocodile strap.
Reference CBN2013.FC6483 is the final piece of the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, as it pops in the light with the flashiest of rose gold details, matched by indices, register pointers and those sharp baton hands. These details on the almost liquid opaline finish of the silver dial mark a small price increase compared to the other three, but seldom has a rose gold TAG Heuer shield looked so good on a silver dial. In this bright and flashy combination (think beige linen mix suit on the French Riviera, July), it brings more bling to the table, and underlines the classic inspiration with an opulent twist. With these rose gold details it sure is the dazzler of the four, and the warm tones work to perfection with the brown strap.
The movement
All four references are powered by the same Heuer 02 caliber as their tougher brothers, which marks the year of the calibre’s expansion. Here, once again ready to prove its mettle as the go-to solid chronograph movement, with a column wheel and vertical clutch, and that weekend-safe 80-hour power reserve. The Heuer 02 caliber is the most important caliber for TAG Heuer in 2020 — it is the main reason why we can have the divine inspiration of the ’60s Carrera with everyday solidity and reliability.
Off the back of a quieter 2019, TAG Heuer has quietly and smoothly accelerated as 2020 has gone on, proving the net worth of the Heuer Carrera as a chameleon-like classic inspiration. Why not open a small, exclusive Solo Carrera showroom in an exclusive New York or Paris arcade? The custom-made light wood cabinets would be exclusively stocked with the Sport Chronograph references, these new references, the Silver 160th and a few more, and would be a resounding success. Add a bright coloured cabinet with the exclusive Connected smartwatch, a pre-owned vintage Carrera corner, and I’d be there (consider the copyright mine).
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection pricing and availability:
The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection references with black, blue and anthracite dials are AUD$7700 and available now.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection reference with silver dial and rose gold dial details is AUD$8000 and is also available now.