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Studio Underd0g x Fears deliver a two-titan, full-lume dial hit with The Gimlet

Studio Underd0g x Fears deliver a two-titan, full-lume dial hit with The Gimlet

Buffy Acacia
  • Celebrating British Watchmakers’ Day, Studio Underd0g and Fears have created The Gimlet together.
  • It’s a blend of a Fears case with a Studio Underd0g dial, complete with a multi-dimensional lume display and 100 metres of water resistance.
  • Powered by a hand-wound Sellita SW210-1, this limited edition of 200 pieces with a handmade strap by The Strap Tailor is just £1,000.

In some ways, it feels like the world is still getting used to the incredible collaborations that have emerged from independent watchmakers and third parties. Every once in a while though, we get two brilliant independents collaborating together – and Studio Underd0g is once again the culprit – at least partially. The Gimlet is a new joint effort between Studio Underd0g and Fears, two British watch brands with vastly different vibes. And yet, the result of their work has yielded a watch that could seamlessly slip into either of their catalogues. Let’s dig a little deeper.

Fears x Studio Underd0g The Gimlet 1

Although Fears as a watch company has its roots all the way back in 1846, the modern incarnation began in 2016 as an essentially solo startup by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, a descendant of the original Edwin Fears. Framed like that, it makes way more sense that a storied, historical brand such as Fears is experimenting with Studio Underd0g, the lighthearted British microbrand of Richard Benc. While Fears treads more towards the edge of its playful stoicism and Studio Underd0g leans into its sophisticated side, the two have met in the middle with The Gimlet as a blend of elegance, whimsy, and quality.

Fears x Studio Underd0g The Gimlet 2

The Gimlet does have a higher balance of Fears influence in its overall design, but the Studio Underd0g touches have a greater effect. The 38mm stainless steel case is based on the Fears Brunswick, which is a modernised version of a Fears cushion case from 1924. Its sharpened corners and thick lugs do give it a contemporary presence, even if the aesthetic is a classical one. The onion crown really cements that 20th century character, as does the gleam of the polished bezel. At 12mm thick including the domed sapphire crystal, and 43.5mm in lug-to-lug length, it hits a very comfortable spot for a lot of wrists.

Fears x Studio Underd0g The Gimlet 3

The dial is where things get tasty. The Fears layout is very much intact, with skeletonised baton hands that allow you to view as much of the dial as possible, while still keeping the time clear thanks to a neat minute track around the dial’s perimeter. The Art Deco Arabic numerals add a wonderful touch of class to the alternating batons, and the co-signed logos are always refreshing to see on a truly collaborative watch. Of course, the magic of the dial lies with the pale green gradient, obviously inspiring the name of The Gimlet watch after the gin and lime cocktail. The dial construction takes after the Studio Underd0g 02Series, with a sapphire disk screwed onto the main dial, so that the printing casts a shadow onto the dial beneath. That adds incredible depth to a dial that is already complex and inviting, thanks to seven layers of Super-LumiNova that create that intoxicating full lume gradient.

Fears x Studio Underd0g The Gimlet 4

Fears and Studio Underd0g generally operate in different price brackets, but a great middle ground has been found at the £1,000 mark. The watch is powered by a Sellita SW210-1 which is manually wound, has a smooth beat rate of 4Hz, and a decent power reserve of 42 hours. It’s not going to win any awards, but it’s a solid Swiss movement to keep the price attainable, and the accuracy of ±7 seconds per day places it as the élaboré grade. There is a solid caseback, engraved with a twist of lime. As if the collaboration between two British watchmakers wasn’t enough, the strap is also made by another British company – The Strap Tailor. It’s a hand-made calfskin with quick-release spring bars at 20mm, so you could easily swap it out if you wanted to take this 100-metre water-resistant watch swimming and keep the leather in good condition.

The Gimlet by Studio Underd0g x Fears price and availability

The Gimlet by Studio Underd0g x Fears is a limited edition of 200 pieces, and will only be available to purchase at British Watchmakers’ Day on March 8th, 2025. Price: £1,000 (~US$1,245)

Brand Studio Underd0g x Fears
Model The Gimlet
Case Dimensions 38mm (D) x 12mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL)
Case Material Stainless steel
Water Resistance 100 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire
Dial Green gradient lume dial
Lug Width 20mm
Strap Calf leather strap, steel pin buckle
Movement Sellita SW210-1, manual winding
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds
Availability Limited to 200 pieces, only available at British Watchmakers’ Day
Price £1,000 (~US$1,245)