Studio Underd0g goes Salm0n fishing, now with a Swiss monopusher movement

Russell Sheldrake

• Studio Underd0g releases its first Series03 monopusher chronograph, the Salm0n. 
• It features the brand’s first Swiss movement, the Sellita SW510 M. 
• There is a price increase from the brand’s previous models, now priced at US$2,000.

Studio Underd0g has done it again. Bringing food into the world of watches in an original, and fun way has become a signature move for Richard Benc and now it seems he has bowed to the pressure of the industry to have a salmon dial, but in a very Studio Underd0g way. The Salm0n not only continues the brand’s fascination with food, but it also introduces a Swiss calibre to standard production for the first time. Quickly following up from its disruptive collaboration with H. Moser & Cie, this new monopusher chronograph is a masterclass on how to follow such a dramatic announcement. It also brings the Series03 that was teased in that Moser collab into the main catalogue.

Let’s start by taking a closer look at this salmon dial, with a twist. By focusing on the salmon skin, the raised central portion of this dial has a wonderful play of texture and colour. With a lighter centre that fades to a mottled grey as it reaches the edge, it adds spots of texture to give that look of freshly caught salmon skin. This texture is reminiscent of the tarmac finish that Patek Philippe has used on a number of its models in the last couple of years, and its matte tone plays nicely off the sunray and concentric circles of the two sub-dials.

The pops of salmon that come through on the minute counter and the tachymeter scale around the outer edge of the dial offer a nice contract that I haven’t seen before on a watch dial. There is a small, red dotted line that separates the two main sections of this dial which slightly breaks the continuity of it for me, and I would have preferred if that transition had been kept cleaner, but it is certainly not a deal breaker.

Pretty much as soon as I got this watch in my hands and got it running, I did what I always do with any new chronograph and tested out the pusher. I can report that it is a very satisfying click when activated – a good amount of resistance to make sure you are actually pressing it, and a sharp release from the tension as the chronograph is either starts, stops, or resets. And this satisfaction is due to the manual-winding Sellita SW510 M, the brand’s first Swiss chronograph movement. You get a full view of this calibre in action from the sapphire caseback, and watching it shift as you press down on the pusher is my version of a fidget toy.

The case itself is a nice mix of brushed and polished stainless steel measuring a respectable 38.5mm across and standing 13.6mm off the wrist, with 3mm of that being the glass box crystal that you have on top. It wears comfortably thanks to the short lug-to-lug of 44.5mm and the custom-made The Strap Tailor strap that the watch comes with. Along with the extant collaboration with The Strap Tailor, Studio Underd0g continues its partnership with Horologium, a watch servicing workshop based in the UK, to carry out all of the QC on this watch.

Studio Underd0g Salm0n pricing and availability

The Studio Underd0g Salm0n will be available to order on September 17th for nine hours between 15:00 and 00:00 BST. Any order placed in that window will be guaranteed a watch, with the first 400 set to be delivered by October 2024, and any orders past that by January 2025. Price: US$2,000

Brand	Studio Underd0g
Model	Salm0n
Reference	03SAB
Case Dimensions	38.5mm (D) x 13.6mm (T) x 44.5mm (LTL)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Water Resistance	50 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire front and back
Dial	Grey and salmon
Strap	Italian epsom leather strap by The Strap Tailor, steel pin buckle
Movement	Sellita SW510 M, manual winding
Power Reserve	63 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, monopusher chronograph
Availability	Pre-order window open 17th September 15:00 to 00:00 BST
Price	US$2,000