Studio Underd0g revisits its cult field watch with a refined second-generation 02SERIES
Tom AustinBeloved British microbrand, Studio Underd0g. has spent the last five years growing up very much in the public eye. Since launching the original 02SERIES back in October 2023, Richard Benc’s independent brand has continued to expand its catalogue with collaborations, limited editions and increasingly ambitious releases. However, much of the attention has naturally remained fixed on its playful chronographs. From its alliance with Christopher Ward to a full-fledged collaboration series with Fears, culminating in the opening of its very own home for all to see, The D0ghouse, the brand has steadily evolved from a promising newcomer to a genuinely established independent.
That growth has created an opportunity to revisit one of its more understated models. While the original 02SERIES introduced Studio Underd0g’s first Swiss movement alongside its now-signature multi-layer sapphire-dial construction, it certainly felt like a platform with room to develop. Rather than redesigning the watch entirely, the brand has taken the same route as it did with the 01SERIES, by introducing a second generation with subtle revisions to wearability, proportions and finishing, without losing an ounce of the personality that made the original so distinctive.
The result is the new 02SERIES (Gen2). Alongside two fresh dial colours, the watch arrives with a slimmer case, an upgraded movement and a host of subtle design tweaks throughout. The changes are modest, but together, along with the timing, they suggest that this is a brand that’s becoming increasingly confident in refining its own ideas. So what’s changed for the second generation 02SERIES? Let’s take a deeper look.
The case
Initially, very little appears to have changed, and much like the changes made to the Gen2 chronograph, that’s very much the point. The familiar field watch style of the 02SERIES needed to remain, retaining its compact proportions and softly brushed stainless steel surfaces, but Studio Underd0g has subtly refined every element. The diameter has increased fractionally from 37 to 37.5mm, while the overall thickness has reduced from 12mm to a marginally trimmer 11.5mm. That thickness includes the crystal; without it, you would measure 9.4mm, making this a particularly well-thought-out case design in terms of proportions.
Much of that reduction comes from reworking the dial architecture. A shorter hand stack, alongside shorter hands and a revised minute track, allows the domed sapphire crystal to sit closer to the dial’s surface, creating a more compact profile without sacrificing the watch’s distinctive appearance. Water resistance remains at a practical 100 metres, while the screw-down caseback continues to feature the jellyfish motif carried over from the original, now presented against a higher-contrast matte background for sharper definition.
The dials
The biggest visual news comes in the form of two new additions to the collection, the Nightshade and Red L0lly. Joining the returning Pink Lem0nade and Steffany Blue, both use the multi-layer dial construction that has become synonymous with the 02SERIES and some of Studio Underd0g’s recent collaborations. Rather than relying on coloured paint, the translucent hues are created by tinting the 1mm-thick sapphire upper dial, allowing the metallic sunburst layer beneath to shine through and create an impressive sense of depth. The technique continues to give the 02SERIES a look unlike almost anything else in its price bracket.
Beyond the new colours, the dial itself has received a clean-up. The minute track has been pulled slightly inwards to improve legibility beneath the edge of the domed crystal, the handset has been completely redesigned, and the dial text has been reduced in size for a cleaner overall appearance. They are all the sorts of changes you might not immediately notice, but these incremental improvements make for an overall more cohesive look and wear experience than the previous model.
The movement
Another meaningful upgrade is a more mechanical one that sits beneath the dial. Gone is the previous Sellita SW210-1, replaced by the newer, manually wound Sellita SW200-2 M Power+, increasing the power reserve from 42 hours to a much more usable 63 hours. For a manually wound watch, those extra 21 hours make a genuine difference. Fully wound on a Friday evening, the 02SERIES can now comfortably make it through a weekend without needing to be reset on Monday morning. It’s still a simple time-only calibre with hacking seconds, beating at 28,800 Vph, but it’s a significant upgrade that improves practicality and brings it well in line with, if not exceeding, most of its competitors.
The strap
The new generation also receives an updated range of leather straps from The Strap Tailor, each carefully paired to its respective dial colour. Red L0lly arrives on a black Pueblo leather strap, while Nightshade receives a rich, burgundy Gaucho leather option, both featuring cream contrast stitching. Naturally, the straps all feature quick-release spring bars, making strap changes reassuringly straightforward.
The verdict
Many brands face the temptation to reinvent a successful watch with an all-new, completely different design, but Studio Underd0g has clearly resisted that urge. Instead, the 02SERIES (Gen2) is a product of a brand that’s becoming increasingly comfortable refining its own identity. Indeed, the 02SERIES is perhaps the least playful and rebellious of the two core Underd0g models, and none of the individual changes to the new model are particularly groundbreaking, but together, they make an already compelling and unique field watch even stronger. With a slimmer profile, a much more practical power reserve, and two new exciting colourways, it’s certainly more evolutionary than revolutionary, and that’s absolutely fine by me.
Studio Underd0g 02SERIES (Gen2) pricing and availability
The Studio Underd0g 02SERIES is now available from the Time+Tide Studios in London, New York and Melbourne. Price: £875/US£1,200/A$1,750
| Brand | Studio Underd0g |
| Model | 02SERIES (Gen2) |
| Reference | 02PLCB – Pink Lem0nade 02SBMI – Steffany Blue 02RLB – Red L0lly 02NIBU – Nightshade |
| Case Dimensions | 37.5mm (D) x 11.5mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Multi-layer sapphire, red, blue, gradient pink, purple |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Strap | Brown or black leather or suede strap from The Strap Tailor, pin buckle |
| Movement | Sellita SW200-2 M Power+, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 63 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | £875/US£1,200/A$1,750 |