Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series
Borna Bošnjak- Along with exclusive movement rights, Studio Underd0g updates the 01Series case with a larger crown for easier winding, while the case slims down by 0.7mm.
- The ST-1901B that will continue powering the 01Series is now equipped with a new finish and sports improved accuracy ratings.
- A 9-hour pre-order window opens on 19/11/2024, with prices starting at US$650.
When Seagull announced that it would up the minimum order quantities of its uber-popular ST-19 movement, it signalled doom for many microbrands that have long relied on the affordable, manual-winding chrono calibre. As a result, we’ve seen numerous micros move away from it in recent times, and begin using the Sellita SW500 as the next best option, though it has come with a significant price hike across the board. Studio Underd0g is one of the brands that has built much of its reputation in part thanks to the ST-19, as the brand has been using it in the food-inspired 01Series chronograph since its inception. When the news of the 03Series, Sellita-powered Salm0n dropped, it almost confirmed that Studio Underd0g would be taking the same route. This article, however, is introducing the third generation of the Studio Underd0g 01Series, thanks to an exclusive agreement signed with Seagull, which comes with a host of other improvements of the “iconic” design. Now, I’m usually quite careful when using that word, as it’s famously a buzzword thrown around in watch journalism. I use it here with confidence, thanks to a Chat GPT response proudly sitting atop the 01Series Gen 3 press release, which says: “The Studio Underd0g 01SERIES has achieved a level of iconic status within the watch enthusiast community, despite the brand’s young age and independent roots.” If AI says it, it’s gotta be true, right?
This is just the kind of cheekiness and self-deprecating humour you might expect to come out of Richard Benc’s brand, but to his credit, he has built one of the most recognisable dials in the micro space. Following in the footsteps of the aforementioned Salm0n, the dials now sport “Assembled in Great Britain” text instead of the “Mechanical Hand-Winding” of previous generations.
Fret not, however, the four household names are still here – Watermel0n, Mint Ch0c Chip, Desert Sky, and Go0fy Panda all make their comeback for the 01Series Gen 3. Lume stays limited to the lanky handset, but then again, if lots of lume on the dial is what you’re after, Studio Underd0g has a much better offering for you.
But the most significant change is with the 01Series Gen 3’s cases. The diameter remains a compact 38.5mm, but the case slims all the way down to 12.9mm, which is quite impressive for a Seagull-powered watch with a very domed sapphire crystal, and an improvement of 0.7mm over its predecessor. This is a welcome improvement. Though the Gen 2 never felt overly thick, the compact diameter and 44.5mm lug-to-lug will certainly benefit from a slimmer overall watch. The crown, on the other hand, got quite a bit thicker to aid with winding the movement. Water resistance remains at 50 metres, which is totally acceptable for this style of watch.
There’s more in terms of movement news other than just the exclusive agreement. For starters, the ST-1901B will be the movement that all 01Series watches feature from this point onwards, and that means two main things. The 01Series Gen 3 watches are one of three brands that will have exclusive use of the swan neck regulator, a feature that was introduced in the second generation of the model. This allows for finer adjustment of the 50-hour movement, which is reflected with the brand’s stated accuracy that’s regulated by UK-based Horologium to -10/+15 seconds per day.
The other change is purely improved aesthetics, as the baseplate is now in black to give the bridges better contrast, with a slightly wider display caseback so you can see the movement just a tad better. I’d usually be content with a closed caseback given the fully industrial finish, but the Venus-derived architecture and moving parts when engaging the chrono really do look quite cool, and a damn sight better than pretty much anything else at the price point.
Studio Underd0g 01Series Gen 3 pricing and availability
The Studio Underd0g 01Series Gen 3 will be available for pre-orders starting 19th of November 2024, with the 9-hour window lasting between 15:00 and 00:00 GMT. All orders placed during the window will be fulfilled. The first 600 orders are expected before Christmas, with any further arriving in January 2025. Price: US$650, soon coming to the T+T Discovery Studio
| Brand | Studio Underd0g |
| Model | 01Series Gen 3 |
| Reference | 01WMB 01DST 01GPB 01MCBR |
| Case Dimensions | 38.5mm (D) x 12.9mm (T) x 44.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda, Mint Ch0c Chip |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Saffiano leather, steel pin buckle |
| Movement | Seagull ST-1901B, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph |
| Availability | 19th November 2024, coming to T+T Studio soon |
| Price | US$650 |