Straum explores a rarer side of the sky with its boldest Jan Mayen yet
Tom AustinThe bigger a watch brand gets, the more carefully it tends to tread. Heritage, design language and brand image become things to protect rather than platforms to build from, and that caution often shows in the end product. Instead of doubling down on what makes them unique, many established names tend to play it safe, often leaning on legacy rather than pushing it forward. Microbrands are free from that burden. They can experiment, tell stories, and draw from things like place and culture in a way that feels far more deliberate.
Norwegian microbrand Straum is a perfect example of that mindset in action, with the new Jan Mayen Arctic Titanium Purple Borealis inspired by STEVE, an oddly named, rare phenomenon that paints fast-moving purple ribbons of light beneath the Aurora Borealis over its namesake volcanic island.
Straum has stood out to us as something special for a while now, so much so that last year we collaborated on a special Time+Tide edition Jan Mayen Titanium, featuring a stunning green fumé dial inspired by the lush, green-and-gold landscape of Jan Mayen Island. The watch was a huge success, and it’s easy to see why: the subtle blend of strong, technical design paired with gorgeously unique dial work makes the Jan Mayen a rather attractive prospect, and now the model returns with a new dial that goes even further.
The case
I’m extremely fortunate in that I get to try a lot of watches on, and, to be brutally honest, not everything clicks the moment I slip them on my wrist. However, the Jan Mayen Titanium is one of those watches that instantly feels like it’s at home. At 38.7mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick, the grade 5 titanium case is perfectly sized, and with a lug-to-lug measurement of 45.7mm, the watch is comfortably unobtrusive on the wrist. Being titanium, it weighs just 83 grams, which enhances comfort and balance without feeling cheap; there’s just enough heft to feel luxurious, yet it certainly feels like a genuine sports watch.
The sporty intent extends to the case’s functionality, too, with the screw-down crown and caseback, combined with the anti-reflective, scratch-resistant domed crystal, providing it with 100 metres of water resistance. The majority of the titanium surface is micro-blasted, which helps keep it looking fresher for longer and makes it feel luscious in the hand, but it’s also complemented by gorgeously polished, bevelled edges that flow around the case. These give the case a lighter look all around and remind you that this is still a luxurious watch to wear.
The dial
I’m finding it difficult to think of superlatives that describe exactly how good the dials on the Jan Mayen are. The whole range is stunning, each picking out a different feature of Norway’s culture or geographic landscape with dramatic effect. Usually, the Jan Mayen’s dial texture tends to emanate from the centre of the dial; in this new Arctic Titanium collection, Straum has opted for a more linear, top-to-bottom effect. This limited edition launch model, the Purple Borealis, specifically uses this linear finish to play with the black-to-metallic purple gradient, representing something oddly named yet rather cool indeed.
In the skies above Norway between October and March, the Aurora Borealis presents a rare, breathtaking spectacle in which vivid purple ribbons of light scatter across the sky. This phenomenon, known as STEVE (Strong Thermal Emission Velocity Enhancement), is caused by high-energy solar particles colliding with nitrogen in the lower atmosphere. The intense friction of these ions moving through the atmosphere at enormous speed creates the distinctive purple glow that Straum has beautifully represented on the Jan Mayen’s dial.
On top of the stunning finish, the dial’s functionality has been deeply considered, with large, polished applied hour markers filled with grade A Super-LumiNova, alongside rounded baton hands that are diamond-cut and polished. Besides the small Straum logo at 12, there’s no fussy dial text or date windows, just a simple printed minute track that sits right at the edge, meaning minutes can still be accurately measured if you really need to.
The movement
The back side of the watch reveals the neat exhibition sapphire case back, exposing the La Joux-Perret G101 calibre inside. It’s a subtly decorated Swiss automatic self-winding movement with a significant 68-hour power reserve and a beat rate of 28,800 Vph. It’s a true no-date calibre, too, not something with phantom date positions on the crown, and the particular model used is the Soigné grade calibre, which is adjusted to four positions for increased accuracy.
The strap
The Jan Mayen’s titanium case is styled as an integrated bracelet configuration, and the FKM rubber strap that it arrives on tapers perfectly from the case edges from 25mm down to 18mm. Right now, a full titanium bracelet is not yet available, but it is in development to sit alongside the steel model bracelets, elevating the watch’s versatility even further.
The straps are easily swapped out for other Straum options using the brilliant quick-release system, the Straum Coupling, which is operated by a push-button housed in the grade 5 titanium mid-link of the strap. This system easily outperforms most quick-release systems in this price bracket, which tend to use simple integrated spring bars, and provides a much more secure connection between the watch and the strap.
The verdict
As I mentioned, there aren’t many watches I try on and immediately feel connected to, but I can’t seem to put the Jan Mayen down. The lightness of the titanium on the wrist is instantly noticeable and allows you to almost forget you’re wearing it during day-to-day routines; however, that incredible dial makes forgetting it completely impossible.
The fact that the bracelet isn’t available just yet isn’t a detraction, either, because the supple rubber strap is supremely comfortable, and plays into the watch’s sporty intent, while remaining luxurious and versatile. The only negative I can think of is that the watch is limited to just 200 pieces worldwide, which will make the Purple Borealis quite a challenge to track down. However, Time+Tide has you covered, because we’ve been lucky enough to secure a small allocation in our Time+Tide shop, which you can pre-order now.
Straum Jan Mayen Arctic Titanium Purple Borealis pricing and availability
The Straum Jan Mayen Arctic Titanium Purple Borealis is limited to 200 pieces and is available to pre-order now from the Time+Tide Shop, including in-store at the Time+Tide Studios in London and New York, with delivery beginning mid-July. Price: US$1,930/€1,820/£1,590
| Brand | Straum |
| Model | Jan Mayen Arctic Titanium Purple Borealis |
| Case Dimensions | 38.7mm (D) x 11.5mm (T) x 45.7mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Textured purple metallic, black fumé gradient |
| Lug Width | Integrated |
| Strap | Black FKM rubber with Straum coupling quick-release system and titanium buckle |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret LJPG101, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 68 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available to pre-order at the Time+Tide Shop and from our London and New York Discovery Studios |
| Price | US$1,930/€1,820/£1,590 |