The Sternglas Merion twists the Bauhaus idea to its limits

Buffy Acacia

As an art movement and a precursor to modernism, Bauhaus is generally associated with objects that are simple in both design and function. It harnesses intuition as an accessory to aesthetics, which often lends itself to versatile, everyday designs. So, it’s not that often we see a dive watch that’s both influenced by Bauhaus and very visually loud, but Sternglas has managed to pull it off with the Sternglas Merion. It’s also the German microbrand’s eighth birthday, having established a strong community of fans since its founding in 2016.

The case

Although the groundwork for Bauhaus style was laid in the 1920s and ‘30s, its effects were felt long into the ‘50s and ‘60s, when it influenced watchmaking the most. Choosing a Supercompressor-style case with an internal bezel really works well for the overall vintage style, reducing the case’s bulkiness and streamlining its silhouette. Crowns at 2 and 4 o’clock control the bezel and time setting respectively, screwing down for the security of the 200-metre water resistance.

In terms of its physical attributes, the Merion definitely has substantial wrist presence without going overboard. The 41mm diameter makes enough space for that wide internal bezel, and the 49mm lug-to-lug length should fit the average wrist quite comfortably. The 14mm thickness is pretty beefy, though, so it’ll appeal to those looking for the reassuring feel of a rugged dive watch. While the case sides and bezel are brushed, the polished lugs add just a touch of elegance back into the mix.

The dial

Supercompressor case and Bauhaus fine lines aside, the colours scheme of the Sternglas Merion is where things start to hit some 1970s funk. The strongly textured green gradient dial is complemented by an orange-yellow seconds hand, orange hour pips, and a navy blue internal bezel, all creating a cacophony of colour. There is also a more traditional variant in black with red highlights, but the technicolour version even has a glint of orange around its sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings. It’s described as Algae Green, which may not be the most complimentary of names, but it accurately captures the fumé effect from dark to light.

Peeking out from 6 o’clock, a circular cutout also reveals a teal date window that’s neat and symmetrical. Most of the dial is divided evenly by printed markings for hours, minutes or seconds, plus fifths of seconds. Luminous batons work with the lumed hands for after dark visibility, along with the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock on that tall, sloping bezel. In typical Bauhaus fashion, all of the dial’s printed text is sans serif and unobtrusive.

The movement

Behind the solid caseback engraved with a picture of two flying fish in an infinite chase, is a tried-and-tested Seiko NH35. Known as the 4R35 when it’s used by Seiko, this movement has been used by microbrands even before it became the standard for the Seiko 5 Sports collection. It has a proven track record of reliability and accuracy, plus it’s easy to modify or regulate by yourself with a few tools and a timegrapher. Parts are plentiful if you ever need to get it serviced, but they’re also cheap enough to replace the entire movement in a pinch. The beat rate is 21,600 vibrations per hour, with a 41 hour power reserve that’s more than enough for daily wear, with automatic winding.

The straps

The Sternglas Merion comes equipped with a stainless steel bracelet in an Oyster style, with brushed outer links and polished centre links. The clasp has on-the-fly adjustment without the need for tools, with three holes of micro-adjustment. The bracelet also has quick-release spring bars so that you can easily swap it out for the supplied Tropic-style rubber if you want something more comfortable and lightweight. If you’re still looking for something different, the 20mm lug width gives you plenty of options for aftermarket straps such as NATOs or sailcloths. The good thing about having such a colourful dial is that there are many highlight and complimentary colours you can choose from.

The verdict

As much as Sternglas prides itself on its Bauhaus design, I would say that the Merion drifts pretty far outside the usual standards for the style. That said, the roots are definitely still visible, and it makes attractive to anyone who either always enjoys Bauhaus, or who typically avoids it. As a dive watch, it’s a capable performer with appropriate water resistance and specifications, and the value proposition is solid. The inclusion of an extra rubber strap is just icing on the cake, and the bracelet’s tool-free adjustment is a welcome feature on an affordable watch.

Sternglas Merion price and availability

The Sternglas Merion is available now from the brand’s website. Price: US$749

Brand	Sternglas
Model	Merion
Case Dimensions	41mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 49mm (LTL)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Water Resistance	200 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Dial	Green and orange Black and red
Lug Width	20mm
Strap	Steel bracelet, clasp with tool-free adjustment Rubber Tropic-style strap, pin buckle
Movement	Seiko NH35, automatic
Power Reserve	41 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date, internal dive bezel
Availability	Now
Price	US$749