Serica’s latest COSC-certified Ref. 7505 field watch proves that 35mm is the new 36mm
Tom AustinLike most things in design, trends are cyclical, and after a fairly lengthy period when larger, oversized watches dominated enthusiasts’ wrists, we’re now well and truly in a time when restrained size is in the spotlight. Collectors and enthusiasts are preferring smaller watches in general, and this influence is bleeding into the broader watch-wearing public as they become much more educated thanks to social media, especially when it comes to style. Perhaps you needed a bigger watch before because nobody was looking, whereas now, more people are looking than ever, so you can still make a statement with something far more subtle.
Accessibility of reasonably-sized movements is also helping, with microbrands now having a greater choice than ever to deliver smaller watches that pack just as much of a punch as their bigger forebears. It’s long been debated that 36mm is the sweet spot for most wrists, but it has to be said that sometimes, tool watches delivered in small packages can easily miss the mark, that is, until Serica entered the game. Its latest release, the Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer, aims to prove that tool watches don’t need to be bulky.
The case
Serica’s latest 7505 Field Chronometer builds on its established field watch design language, seen in models such as the Ref. 6190 and the 4512, blending Parisian chic with a militaristic simplicity to create something functional yet with true individual character. Just like its predecessors, it’s finished in brushed stainless steel with deliberately hard edges and corners that are gently broken rather than heavily bevelled. Importantly, this means that the 35mm-diameter case still has a moderate presence on the wrist, because if the case were heavily chamfered everywhere, it might have seemed even smaller.
A 41.5mm lug-to-lug ensures this model remains humble, keeping the overall case design balanced. Thickness is modest, too, at 9.6mm, even with a double-domed sapphire crystal that sports an anti-reflective coating on the inside. This, alongside a fixed bezel and oversized screw-down crown and caseback, delivers a 200-metre water resistance, meaning that while diminutive in size, the Ref. 7505 still holds its own in the functionality stakes.
The dials
There are three dial options available for the Ref. 7505; the first two finishes are a black or olive green polished enamel, the latter of which we didn’t get a chance to see in hand, sadly, but both feature an all-new field watch layout from Serica; the “Minute Critical Dial”, consisting of lumed hour markers combined with Arabic numerals for a clean, practical layout. While that layout would probably be best suited for everyday use and is the most understated, there’s another option that will probably be more popular among collectors.
Serica’s popular Tuxedo dial makes a comeback for the 7505, again in polished enamel, but this time featuring a bold, beige ring set against a black base. The minute track extends in beige from this ring, with the applied hour markers in typical Serica style finishing things off. All three models feature the brushed, broad arrow hands, and ultimately, all of them offer excellent legibility no matter the conditions, which, for a watch with a relatively small dial, is good to see.
The movement
While the watch is smaller overall than its Serica stablemates, the movement choice remains unchanged, opting once again for the Swiss Soprod M100 self-winding calibre. Hidden behind a solid, engraved case back, the COSC-certified movement delivers a 42-hour power reserve while beating at 28,800 Vph. While it aligns with the rest of Serica’s range, it’s worth noting that offering a COSC-certified movement in the €1,000 region is still impressive, especially considering the movement is modestly decorated with Côtes de Genève finishing, albeit sensibly hidden away.
The bracelet
The watch is equipped with Serica’s stainless‑steel Bonklip bracelet with a signed clasp, offered in three sizes – small, regular and extra‑long. It’s a heritage-inspired design with roots dating back to the mid-20th century, originally worn on the wrists of British Royal Air Force aviators. These options ensure a snug fit from the outset thanks to the practically infinite number of points you can clip in with the Bonklip and its “Safe-Lock” clasp, which locks everything into place safely.
The verdict
First and foremost, for a tool watch to be a good tool, it needs to be functional, easy to wear and capable of withstanding challenging conditions. Equally, it has to speak to you; otherwise, it’s just good at doing one job, and you may not choose to wear it very often, be that at your desk, in the pub, or in the field. The Ref. 7505 from Serica offers all the plus points of a good tool watch, all while being extraordinarily wearable, no matter what you plan to do while wearing it.
The logo-less dial has enough allure to draw in those “what’s that on your wrist?” comments, while remaining subtle and understated, and in 35mm, it offers more versatility than ever before. Perhaps you’re a female with petite wrists who has always loved the thought of a tool watch, but 39mm is still too big, or you’re a big-wristed enthusiast who is just so over large watches. The Ref. 7505 is an interesting prospect for either wearer, and at this price point, considering its strong specifications, it’s a watch that is worth some serious consideration.
Serica Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer pricing and availability
Just 36 pieces of the Serica Ref 7505 Field Chronometer are now available from the Time+Tide shop and the Time+Tide Studios in New York, London, and Melbourne. Following that, your next opportunity to catch them will be in November, so you’ll have to be quick if you want it for summer. Price: €1,090 (“Minute Critical” Dial)/€1,190 (Tuxedo dial)
| Brand | Serica |
| Model | Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer |
| Case Dimensions | 35mm (D) x 9.6mm (T) x 41.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire, anti-reflective |
| Dial | Black or olive green polished lacquer, tuxedo dial |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel Bonklip bracelet, Safe-Lock clasp |
| Movement | Soprod M100, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now from the Time+Tide shop, and all three Discovery Studios |
| Price | €1,090 (“Minute Critical Dial) €1,190 (Tuxedo dial) |