The 4R34 brings classy utility to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT
Buffy AcaciaA valid rule of thumb for predicting Seiko’s releases could be to simply mash up elements of different watches. Consider the brand’s near-modular construction in certain areas, you can pretty much bet that most combinations of parts will get released eventually. Bringing a GMT complication to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection was really a matter of time since the announcement of the 4R34 GMT movement, and although there are no surprises here, there certainly aren’t any disappointments either.
The case
Although recent efforts from Seiko have been very dial-focused, it’s always been known for its versatile lug-to-lug length. The Presage series is all about sophistication, whether traditional or modern, and the Cocktail Time range generally takes its influence from the slick dress watches of the late 1960s. As such, the slender, elegant lugs reach 47.5mm in length, which is compact enough to fit most wrists nicely. The 40.5mm diameter is also a sweet spot for contemporary presence, and the 12.8mm thickness, while on the chunky side for a dress watch, is still manageable.
Polished finishes cover the front of the Cocktail Time GMT, giving it a refined appearance from top-down with a fine brushing along the case side. The stepped crown is also signed with a Seiko logo, which is a nice bit of detail that’s becoming rarer to see on Seiko’s more affordable ranges. The slight conical profile of the crown is a welcome oddity too, giving you plenty to grip and adding just a touch of whimsy. The 50-metre water resistance rating most likely won’t hold up to swimming, but the occasional splash and heavy storm shouldn’t pose any threat.
The dial
Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time watches have been around since 2010, and they’re practically a modern classic in the catalogue. So, seeing a four-hander with GMT functionality is actually very exciting, even if it was an inevitable release. Rather than taking the generic route for the design of the GMT hand, Seiko have embraced the classical cathedral style with a hint of skeletonisation. It’s a bold contrast to the razor-sharp dauphine hands and arrowhead hour markers, but it works phenomenally well. It echoes the lines of the radiant guilloché dial pattern that has been stamped on, and it’s easy to distinguish from the others. As for reading the second time zone, the 12 hours of the dial have been divided up into 24, with odd numerals printed in a Breguet typeface.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a Cocktail Time without the actual cocktail influence. Given a solid 14 year backlog, Seiko has definitely had to dig deep for new cocktail recipes, but the dial colours are still beautiful no matter how obscure the drink is. First is the SSK037 Skydiving with a crisp ice-blue dial. Next, the SSK039 Rusty Nail blends between a near-chestnut and a golden auburn, highlighted by the gold of the GMT hand. The SSK041 Acacia has got to be my favourite considering we share a name, and the pale-yellow tinge creeping into the silver centre is absolutely captivating.
The movement
The calibre 4R34 caused a huge stir in the watch world upon its release, finally presenting an affordable GMT movement with big brand cachet. If anything, people were more excited to see it powering their favourite microbrands than actual Seiko watches, but the Seikos themselves have been huge hits too. Admittedly it’s not the prettiest of movements to view from the exhibition caseback, and the barebones winding rotor actually looks a bit sad in comparison to the splendour of the dial. However, what it lacks in decoration it makes up for in performance, reliability, and long-term servicing or replacement costs. It runs at 3Hz with a power reserve of 41 hours, and uses the same basic architecture as the calibre 4R35 which has been respected for decades. The GMT complication itself is easy to use, adjusting the hand via the crown in one-hour increments.
The strap
Seiko has accurately preempted the kind of customers for each of the Presage Cocktail Time GMT’s references, pairing them with appropriate straps. The SSK039 Rusty Nail and the SSK041 Acacia have been given alligator-pattern leather straps in tone-matched brown colours, while the sportier appeal of the blue SSK037 Skydiving goes perfectly with a five-link stainless steel bracelet. These watches don’t have drilled lugs for easy strap changes, but the leather straps do have quick-release spring bars. If you want to experiment with aftermarket options, the 20mm lug widths will make that easy for you.
The verdict
Is it even possible to dislike these watches? Their existence makes so much sense that it feels as if they’ve been around for years already, and yet the design of that GMT hand is enough to make me crave one on its own. The sizing is on point, although smaller references would definitely be received well in future, and the initial collection of colours is bound to be popular. To top it off, the initial RRP feels more than reasonable given the current climate of ever increasing watch prices.
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT collection pricing and availability
The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT collection is now available for pre-order in certain European countries and Australia (pre-order not available in USA) with shipping and full release taking place in July or August 2024. Price: A$925, ~US$610 (SSK039, SSK041), A$950, ~US$630 (SSK037)
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | Presage Cocktail Time GMT |
| Reference | SSK037 (Skydiving) SSK039 (Rusty Nail) SSK041 (Acacia) |
| Case Dimensions | 40.5mm (D) x 12.8mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Hardlex front and back |
| Dial | Ice blue (Skydiving) Brown gradient (Rusty Nail) Yellow-silver gradient (Acacia) |
| Strap | Five-link steel bracelet, butterfly clasp (Skydiving) Leather strap, steel folding clasp (Rusty Nail, Acacia) |
| Movement | 4R34, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date |
| Availability | Available now for pre-order in limited countries, shipping in summer 2024 |
| Price | A$925, ~US$610 (SSK039, SSK041) A$950, ~US$630 (SSK037) |