Two new Seiko Presage Classic Series watches – one Goldilocks size fans love
Zach BlassSeiko is a watch brand that has such an expansive offering. There are countless models and references throughout its various key pillars, affording buyers more affordable watches that tick off a rainbow of dial colours and designs that sit all throughout the spectrum line between sporty and dressy. While lines such as Seiko 5 and Prospex garner a lot of attention in a world that often seeks out sportier watches – field watches, dive watches, chronographs – its Presage lineup is nothing to sleep on. Often we think of the Presage range as the dress watch segment of Seiko’s collection, but the watches are ultimately more versatile than a dress or dressy watch label would suggest. And the recently debuted Seiko Presage Classic Series HCC002 and Presage Classic Series “Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization” Limited Edition HCC008 are two great examples of the affordable robust elegance that can be found in the Presage lineup.
The cases
Both cases carry a dimension set I believe most would describe as their Goldilocks sizing for watches that carry a casual elegance in their appearance, with a diameter of 38mm and a lug-to-lug span of 43.8mm across the wrist. The 38mm diameter ensures the watch has a modern presence with a larger dial, but the lug-to-lug span keeps things tame enough to wear more vintage-adjacent on the wrist. The 12.9mm case thickness measurement may be contested by some, but considering both cases have a 100-metre depth rating, and the approachable pricing of these watches despite having so many elements made in-house, I think it is rather unreasonable to hold it against this Presage Classic Series pair.
In terms of their differences, not only are the case colours different, but so is their finish. The HC002 has a mixed-finish case, largely brushed with mirror-finished accents, while the HCC008 has a rose gold-toned steel case that is rendered in a more dressy full mirror polish. This makes sense considering the HCC002 is paired with a bracelet and has a steel hue, while the HCC008 has a precious metal look and is paired with a leather strap.
The dials
The Seiko Presage Classic Series HCC002 is arguably more immediately eye-catching, with a light green tone that has dynamic shading as a result of the sunburst finish and wavy stamped guilloché texture pattern. As light hits the grooves of the dial, lines of shadow will radiate out, making the dial feel less static in appearance. As is often expected from Seiko, the light green hue is inspired by nature, said to evoke the colour of young fresh bamboo.
Turning our attention to the Seiko Presage Classic Series “Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization” Limited Edition HCC008, the dial layout is exactly the same, a clean three-hander with a nice alpha handset for the central hours and minutes hand and a stick central running seconds hand with an alpha-like counterweight shape. You also have baton-shaped, applied hour indices to further elevate the dial and add value. However, I imagine some would have enjoyed the incorporation of Lumibrite on the HCC002, but I do think the dressier HCC008 does benefit from its omission. Of course, all of these dial elements are case-matching for visual harmony.
The limited edition tie-in and theme behind the HCC008 is not obvious. There is no co-branding, and at first glance the dial appears to be a simple white dial. However, the dial was crafted to capture the delicate texture and translucency of “Gunma-Hoso”, a specialty silk that is known to be exceptionally shiny, supple, and strong. This was done by giving the pure white and wavy-textured dial a pearl-painted finish that creates a certain rosy iridescence as the dial reflects the warm tones of the case and applied dial elements. According to Seiko, the dial “honours the Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization whose purpose is protecting and preserving the sericulture industry in the Tomioka region, where the Tomioka Silk Mill World Heritage Site is located.”
The straps
As I have already mentioned, the HCC002 is paired with a case-matching multi-link bracelet that has a Jubilee-like appearance many would enjoy for a versatile sporty-meets-dressy watch that can be worn anytime. It is mixed-finished, beginning with brushed link pieces and alternating with mirror-polished link pieces. The clasp is a butterfly style, which I often find keeps a watch better centred on the wrist. But it is worth noting there is no micro or fine-adjustment system in the clasp – traditionally understandable for a watch of this price point.
The HCC008 is paired with a dark brown leather strap, the channel of which has padding to raise its surface. Normally I am not all that fond of padding, as it makes a strap thicker, but considering the case thickness of 12.9mm it actually works well to continue the lines of the case. Securing the strap to the wrist is a case-matching, twin-triggered deployant clasp to offer what many find to be a more premium feel.
The movement
Inside and exhibited within both references is Seiko’s in-house calibre 6R51, a tried and true Seiko movement that offers a very admirable, weekend-proof 72 hours of power reserve. It leaves the factory with a pledged +25/-15 seconds per day accuracy range, but often performs well within its broad parameters.
The verdict
Seiko plays a very important role in the world, opting for more traditional analogue timekeepers on the wrist in place of the more presently ubiquitous smartwatch era. As more and more people discover the romance, allure, and experience of mechanical watchmaking, there is a need to have options out there with a longstanding, trusted name held in high regard, but at a lower price point and barrier to entry. Of course, having affordable sports watches would be a strong selling point, one Seiko certainly covers off with ranges like its Prospex range. But, if you really think about the broader public, many out there are now looking for their foil to their smartwatches.
The Apple Watch will remain their activewear watch, their daily, but when a job interview, formal event, or a weekend moment where they would want to remove notifications and screens from their day, this is where watches like these two recent Seiko Presage Classic models enter the picture. And for the watch geeks already down bad for mechanical watchmaking, or who are already full-fledged Seikophiles, these two watches are yet another two bangers from the Japanese titan of watchmaking many stand to enjoy.
Seiko Presage Classic Series HCC002 & HC008 pricing and availability
The Seiko Presage Classic Series HCC002 and Presage Classic Series “Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization” Limited Edition HCC008 (limited to 2,000 pieces) are both available now for purchase. Price: US$950 (HCC002), US$1,150 (HCC008)
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | Presage Classic Series Presage Classic Series “Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization” Limited Edition |
| Reference | HCC002 HCC008 |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 12.9mm (T) x 43.8mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, Super Hard Coating Rose gold-toned stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front, exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Light green (HCC002) Pearl-painted pure white (HCC008) |
| Strap | Stainless steel 7-link bracelet, folding clasp (HCC002) Dark brown leather strap, case-matching folding clasp (HCC008) |
| Movement | 6R51, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Now (HCC002) Now, limited to 2,000 pcs. (HCC008) |
| Price | US$950 (HCC002) US$1,150 (HCC008) |