The Seiko Sportsmatic 5: A beloved daily-wearer since 1963
Zach BlassWhen it comes to watch collecting, everyone needs to start somewhere, and not everyone has a massive budget to scratch their mechanical watch itch. Fortunately, the watch market is fuller than ever with options at lower price points. But just because they are less pricey in no way means they are low-quality watches. Whether a first watch or the twentieth to enter a collection, the Seiko 5 Sports is an iconic range recommended by many watch geeks for decades as an excellent place to search for a lower-priced, yet high-quality daily wearer.
The Seiko Sportsmatic 5 made its debut in 1963
The Seiko Sportsmatic 5, now named the Seiko 5 and also known as “The Five”, was first launched in 1963 and was the first Seiko automatic day-date watch, and first Japanese automatic day-date watch, ever made. It was designed by Ren Tanaka, with the intent of appealing to a younger demographic of students and professionals who would appreciate affordable, quality watches suited for their daily lives. According to lore, it is said that Tanaka picked the number 5 as its name because the uneven number ‘5’ made it feel more “youthful and dynamic.” But, according to Seiko, the five nomenclature stems from the five attributes the brand set as a standard for the model and what it must have.
Seiko Museum Ginza explains that the five points and criteria are: “One, Self-winding (allowing high winding efficiency). Two, Water-resistant mechanism (protecting quality for many years). Three, (Visible) day-and-date-integrated window in the 3 o’clock position. Four, Crown (which does not require manual winding) hidden in the 4 o’clock position. Five, Masculine design (with a metal band).”
These elements are why the watch was dubbed “The Five”. It stood out in the market for a variety of reasons. Firstly, it was an automatic watch at a time when automatic watches were nowhere near as common as they are today. Secondly, the dial neatly and legibly displayed both the calendar day and date at the 3 o’clock position. In fact, bilingual displays were created to ensure more markets could read and enjoy this functionality. Thirdly, it was born on a bracelet – again, not as common in the early 60s as it is today. Lastly, it was water-resistant at a time when more “waterproof” watches were vastly more expensive. Everything a young watch wearer needed was considered and found in a Seiko 5 watch.
In 1968, the line expanded, with the first Seiko 5 Sports models introduced. The line debuted more geometric and faceted case shapes, a refined Seiko 5 emblem on the dial, bolder dial aesthetics, rotating bezels for added summer fun utility (catering to activities like snorkelling), hardlex glass crystals, and increased depth ratings of 70 metres. For context of pricing, the exchange rate was roughly US$1 was equal to ¥360.56. Based on vintage advertisement records, the prices of the inaugural range of watches ranged from ¥10,500 – ¥15,000, which would equate to approximately US$29.12 – US$41.60. In terms of affordability being a main mission driver for Seiko 5 Sports, it is clear Seiko succeeded in 1968 at a time when a Rolex Submariner was priced at US$225 and an Explorer at US$205. Effectively five times or more less expensive.
Where Seiko 5 sits in the market today
There are currently 75 different Seiko 5 Sports models listed in the catalogue on Seiko’s website and they range from US$295 to US$475 in price. Despite every reference being well below US$1,000 and just below US$500, the Seiko 5 Sports catalogue offers a range of aesthetics and functionalities, including dive watches and GMT watches, with a bold spectrum of coloured dials. The three core sub-segments of Seiko 5 Sports are the SKX series, SNX series, and Field series – each with distinct aesthetics and lifestyle targeting. The current lineup also has excellent size diversity, with pieces ranging from 28mm to 42.9mm. The crowns largely remain at the 4 o’clock position, though not always recessed and also at the 3 o’clock position, but the other four remaining attributes have effectively remained in place. In fact, with modernisation, there have been improvements with all Seiko 5 Sports watches now at least 100 metres water-resistant.
Famous wearers
Young Mazino
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Among the most recent spots of Seiko 5 Sports watches in film and television, The Last of Us actor Young Mazino does not go out on patrol without his trusted Seiko 5 Sports SRPG39. Of course, watch nerds felt the need to point out that the watch was technically released after the timeline of the show. My reply, considering it is based on a dystopian video game where the world is battling a fictional cordyceps zombie pandemic: Really?
Noah Wyle
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HBO Max actors clearly favour Seiko 5 Sports watches, as actor Noah Wyle also enlisted one for his wrist in his portrayal as a doctor in The Pitt. In expected fashion, however, some watch aficionados were quick to point out that a doctor should avoid a watch with a fabric strap that could harbour germs and bacteria.
Bruce Lee
The most famous wearer of Seiko 5 Sports watches, and in real life no less, was Bruce Lee, who long favoured his Seiko ref. 6139-6010.
Notable models
Seiko Sportsmatic 5 6619-8090
Where it all began, the 6619-8090 measures 36.5mm in diameter and 43mm lug-to-lug – wonderfully compact proportions that those fond of vintage all adore. It is driven by an in-house automatic 6619 movement that boasted the venerated “Magic Lever” automatic winding system, a Diaflex mainspring said to never break, and a Diashock shock-resistance system for added robustness.
Seiko 5 Sports 6106-8120
Doubling down on its appeal to more youthful watch clientele and those with more active lifestyles, the 1968 Seiko 5 Sports-launching ref. 6106-8120 is, of course, very notable. It measures 39.5mm in diameter and 43mm lug-to-lug, has an increased 70-metre depth rating, and is driven by an in-house automatic 6106 movement. If you are interested in this example of the watch from 1969, it is available for US$899.99 here on the DC Vintage Watches website.
Seiko 5 Sports SKX Sports Style GMT
Fast-forwarding to the modern era, the Seiko 5 Sports SKX Sports Style GMT is a perfect example of how value-driven Seiko is as a brand and how affordable yet high-performing the 5 Sports line remains. Inside the 100-metre water-resistant stainless steel watches, 42.5mm in diameter, 13.6mm thick, and 46mm lug-to-lug, an in-house “true” GMT 4R34 automatic calibre allows you to track multiple time zones. And yet, the watch is less than US$500. Insane.
Seiko 5 Sports x Rowing Blazers
Indicative of the range is a perfect canvas for collaborations with popular culture; the Seiko 5 Sports x Rowing Blazers limited edition collection is the perfect example of many collaborations Seiko has participated in over the years. With the draw of their collaborators and the scarcity inherent in limited editions, collaborative Seiko 5 Sports watches can be highly sought after and, in turn, command a premium on the secondary market.