Here comes the Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer, and I say it’s much more than alright
Tom Austin- Fan-favourite British independent Studio Underd0g and bespoke French watchmaker Sartory Billard have joined forces to officially end winter in the coolest way possible.
- Produced by Sartory Billard and designed by Studio Underd0g, the SB05 Sunfl0wer blends playful creativity with some serious watchmaking prowess.
- Ultra-limited to just 10 pieces, the SB05 has been uniquely tailored to embody the theme of the sunflower and Geneva’s Flower Clock.
As we come to the end of March here in the Northern Hemisphere, the days are getting longer, the miserably grey clouds are subsiding, and the blue skies are a more frequent sight, even here in the UK. It feels like years since it’s been here, and what better way to mark the end of a long, cold and lonely winter than with a new watch? Ok, enough Beatles references. If you partner with a company like Studio Underd0g, you can bet that the results are not going to be something dull; that’s for sure, and that’s exactly what bespoke French watchmaker Sartory Billard has done. The outcome of this partnership is a watch that embodies summer themes and brings a blend of fun and passion to bespoke watchmaking: the SB05 Sunfl0wer.
Sartory Billard is well-known for offering extensive customisation options for their time-only watches, and the SB05 is no exception. It showcases not only Studio Underd0g’s fresh perspective and outside-the-box approach but also fine craftsmanship from across the French and Swiss watchmaking industry.
Firstly, the case is slender in its proportions, not only in width but thickness, too, at 38.5mm wide and just 8.5mm thick. It’s crafted from 316L stainless steel and produced by none other than Voutilainen & Cattin SA, founded by the inimitably brilliant Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. This shows, too, as the attention to detail is evident; the case has been carefully constructed from multiple parts, securing each lug individually and making sure each joint is beautifully finished. There’s nothing particularly spectacular about the case at first glance, which is fine, but look closer, and it becomes clear that fit and finish were very high on the agenda.
The watch is framed with a classic concave bezel, polished to contrast the blasted flanks of the case and brushed lugs. Each piece is fitted with a sapphire crystal up front and a large sapphire exhibition caseback at the rear. With a 45.5mm lug-to-lug measurement, it will suit most wrists, and being reasonably thin, it will make the watch genuinely comfortable to wear.
As with all of Studio Underd0g’s watches, there has to be a theme. I can’t think of many other watch-related brands that do this so boldly, and the SB05 Sunfl0wer is probably one of the boldest I’ve seen. The incredible dial is, of course, inspired by a sunflower, with a grand grain guilloché pattern split across the dark, seed-like centre into a golden ring around the outside featuring 24 individually engraved petals. In true Studio Underd0g style, there’s a sapphire ring placed above the dial, giving the appearance that a floating minute track hovers above the surface.
Even the sword hands are unique, with green flashes as the base and a bright ring around the small seconds dial. Finally, the dial is finished proudly with plates bearing the Studio Underd0g and Sartory Billard logos. The dial is playful with its use of colour, but it’s one of those dials that, as you look closer, the detail becomes mesmerizing, and the exceptional level of attention to detail is apparent. The watch is being launched in Geneva on March 31st, and the watch directly references the famous Flower Clock (Horloge Fleurie), which sits in the heart of the city.
At the heart of this unconventionally classic watch sits the SMB01, a hand-wound calibre based upon the La Joux-Perret 7380. It’s, of course, been intricately customised by Sartory Billard and looks excellent as a result. It benefits from a significant 90-hour power reserve and is accurate to within +/- 7 seconds per day. The movement sits at just 2.7mm thick, so no wonder the SB05 is so comfortably sized and looks fantastic through the exhibition caseback, thanks to the lashings of perlage finishing and grey NAC treatment.
The artisanal themes continue through to the strap, which is supplied by one of the best in the game, The Strap Tailor. It’s a tapered soft leather finished in forest green, a perfect choice for a watch like this, and it matches the hand details. Naturally, the strap comes complete with curved quick-release spring bars and a 316L stainless steel pin buckle. It’s tough to pick any holes in these straps; they’re the same as what comes supplied with other Studio Underd0g pieces, and I can safely say they are superb.
The watch industry can be a stuffy place at times; it likes to stick to what it knows and rarely dares to do much that can be considered exciting and bold. And while some may question it, like it or not, Studio Underd0g is doing its level best to show that things don’t need to be like that. Collaborating with other brands like Fears or H. Moser & Cie. is a testament to that.
The SB05 brings yet another fresh perspective: thinking outside the box can deliver something ultra-cool. When partnering with engaging, experienced artisanal watchmakers, it can produce watches with all the exceptional details enthusiasts love. The SB05 captures the sense of summer brilliantly and in a way that won’t look like a poor choice any other time of the year.
Sartory Billard SB05 Sunfl0wer by Studio Underd0g pricing and availability
The Sartory Billard SB05 Sunfl0wer by Studio Underd0g is limited to 10 pieces. It will be on display at the Hotel Beau-Rivage in Geneva from March 31st to April 4th and will be made available via Sartory Billard’s website on April 4th on a first-come, first-serve basis. Price: €12,700 (excl. VAT)
| Brand | Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g |
| Model | SB05 Sunfl0wer |
| Reference | SB05SF |
| Case Dimensions | 38.5mm (D) x 8.5mm (T) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Grand grain guilloché pattern, purple and gold sunflower-themed with sapphire disc |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | The Strap Tailor soft grain leather in forest green with stainless steel pin buckle |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret 7380, hand-wound |
| Power Reserve | 90 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Limited edition of 10 pieces |
| Price | €12,700.00 (excl. VAT) |