Rolex returns to Centre Court, De Bethune finds a new leader, and JLC lands the gentleman thief
Tom AustinFrighteningly, we’re officially midway through 2026. Somehow, six months have disappeared in a blur of new releases, industry shake-ups, and enough headlines to make January feel like an eternity ago. If this week is anything to go by, it’s showing no signs of slowing down, either. We’ve seen one of independent watchmaking’s most respected names welcome a new CEO, the tennis season return to London with one of the most iconic partnerships back in the spotlight, and another major maison strengthen its ambassador roster. To round things off, I’ve also been pondering how collaborations continue to shape the watch scene, alongside curating some of our best content that deserves a spot in your weekend viewing. So, grab a coffee, put your feet up, and let’s dive into this week’s Wind Down.
De Bethune welcomes Antoine Pin as CEO
There’s a new face at the helm of De Bethune, with Antoine Pin joining the independent manufacture as Chief Executive Officer ahead of its 25th anniversary. Formerly CEO of TAG Heuer, Pin also brings leadership experience from Bulgari’s watch division, as well as senior roles at Zenith and Boucheron. He’ll work alongside founder and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet as the brand looks to build on its success while remaining proudly independent.
For collectors, the most encouraging part of the announcement is the message behind it. Throughout the statements from Pin, Flageollet and chairman Justin Reis, the recurring themes are independence, long-term growth and respect for the values the manufacture has built over the past two decades. With its 25th anniversary approaching, this new appointment suggests the brand wants to strengthen its foundations for the years ahead without sacrificing its distinctive character, and that can only be a great thing for De Bethune fans and Swiss watchmaking alike. Fresh leadership at an independent is always worth noting, particularly at a brand like De Bethune, whose reputation has been built on doing things its own way for more than two decades.
Rolex’s annual showcase at the Wimbledon tournament returns
Wimbledon is back for another 14 days, which means that Centre Court isn’t just hosting some of the finest tennis players on the planet, but also one of watchmaking’s longest-standing partnerships. Rolex has served as the tournament’s official timekeeper since 1978, and this year’s Championships began with reigning men’s champion and Rolex Testimonee Jannik Sinner opening play on Centre Court, while defending women’s champion Iga Świątek returned the following day after her breakthrough title last summer.
Beyond the action on the grass, Wimbledon has become one of the biggest dates on the watch calendar. Rolex’s family of Tesitmonees is packed with names likely to feature deep into the second week, from Sinner and Świątek to Coco Gauff, Taylor Fritz, Maria Sakkari and Ben Shelton. Sadly, Carlos Alcaraz hasn’t made it to this year’s tournament due to a wrist injury, but the post-match trophy presentation will still undoubtedly be followed by the inevitable wrist shot of the newly crowned champion’s wrist-candy, as they proudly lift the Gentleman’s Singles Trophy, or the Venus Rosewater Dish. With so many top players being Rolex Testimonees, the chances of it being a watch from the Crown’s catalogue are unsurprisingly high.
Of course, the watch spotting doesn’t stop with the players. The Royal Box has become almost as entertaining as Centre Court itself for collectors, with actors, athletes, royalty and business leaders often turning SW19 into an unofficial concours of steel sports watches, perpetual calendars and discreet precious-metal dress pieces. If you’re planning to spend the next two weeks glued to Wimbledon, don’t be surprised if your eyes wander from the baseline to the wrists every now and then.
Omar Sy become Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest Friend of the House
Jaeger-LeCoultre has added another high-profile name to its ambassador roster, announcing French actor Omar Sy as its newest Friend of the House. Best known internationally for Lupin, The Intouchables and Jurassic World, Sy has become one of France’s most recognisable actors, combining an understated sense of style with a career that has comfortably crossed between domestic and Hollywood productions. The partnership launches with Sy starring in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s The Hour Before series, offering a look back at the decisions and defining moments that have shaped his journey as an actor. Omar Sy’s career has steadily evolved over three decades, and Jaeger-LeCoultre clearly sees parallels between his approach to his craft and the values the manufacture has long championed, so the collaboration seems to suit both parties rather well.
Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!
Tom & the Time+Tide Team
Tom’s Time+Tide take of the week: The watch industry needs collaborations more than enthusiasts are willing to admit
Mention the words “watch collaboration”, and you’ll usually get one of two reactions. Either somebody is frantically refreshing their browser in the hope of securing one, or somebody else is explaining why collaborations have become overdone and are nothing more than marketing exercises. There are plenty that deserve that criticism. Some amount to little more than a logo swap, while others exist purely to generate hype and sell out in minutes. But when they’re done properly, collaborations create something traditional watchmaking often struggles to achieve: they get people talking. Studio Underd0g and Christopher Ward’s recent partnership felt genuinely exciting because it brought together two brands with very different identities to produce something neither would likely have made on its own. The same can be said for Baltic and SpaceOne, for example, or the wonderfully irreverent work of seconde/seconde/, which consistently encourages enthusiasts to look at familiar watches from a different perspective.
The obvious counterargument is the MoonSwatch, or more recently, the AP x Swatch collection. Both divided enthusiasts almost the moment they were announced, and social media quickly filled with complaints about cheapening luxury brands or chasing publicity. Yet it’s hard to argue they weren’t hugely important for watchmaking as a whole. They managed to reach people who had never considered buying an analogue watch before, while introducing younger audiences to names like Omega and Audemars Piguet, and reminding the wider public that mechanical watches still exist in a digital age dominated by smart devices. The luxury watch industry spends a lot of time worrying about attracting new collectors, and collaborations remain one of the few proven ways of doing exactly that.
Then there’s the simple reality that collaborations aren’t equally important for every brand. Rolex doesn’t collaborate because it doesn’t have to. It has spent decades building arguably the strongest brand identity in watchmaking, if not one of the strongest brands outside of it, too. Microbrands and independents don’t have that luxury. For independents and microbrands, collaborations shouldn’t be just another release in the calendar. They’re a chance to borrow each other’s audiences, challenge one another creatively and produce something that probably wouldn’t have existed otherwise. If we’re constantly asking brands to surprise us, we shouldn’t be so quick to criticise them when they actually do. Of course, not every collaboration deserves celebrating, but I’d argue the watch industry needs them far more than many enthusiasts are willing to admit.
Wrist shot of the week: Solid gold sleeper
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Tim Vaux’s legendary wrist shots have graced this column quite regularly, and with good reason, but this particular shot of the Everose gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual featuring a blue lacquered dial, set with dumortierite markers, is a real showstopper. Even at 34mm, it shows that solid gold can still be an understatement.
Time+Tide Shop pick of the week: echo/neutra Rivanera Ros’antico
echo/neutra has given its distinctive Art Deco-inspired Rivanera and Rivanera Piccolo a fresh injection of colour and personality with the new Ros’antico collection. The muted antique pink dial is paired with vibrant blue and moody black accents, striking a balance between playful and elegant without tipping into novelty. Housed in ultra-light grade 5 titanium cases and powered by proven automatic and manually wound Swiss movements, both models offer something genuinely different in the dress watch space. If you’re looking for a watch that breaks away from the usual silver, black and blue formula while remaining refined enough for everyday wear, the Ros’antico collection is well worth a closer look.
The echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo Ros’antico is now available to pre-order from the Time+Tide Shop and the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studios in London and Melbourne. Price: €1,640/US$1,980
Our favourite Time+Tide Coverage of the week
New Rado Integral 40-Year Anniversary Edition | Hands On Review
The Rado Integral changed the brand forever when it became the world’s first high-tech ceramic watch in 1986. Our latest hands-on video explores the new 40-Year Anniversary Edition and why the Integral remains one of Rado’s most important designs.
Toledano & Chan’s Phil Toledano: The gold ripple dial, the B/1, and chasing the frontier
Phil Toledano heads down to the Time+Tide NYC Discovery Studio to discuss the thinking behind the latest Toledano & Chan Gold Ripple, from its new titanium case and mesmerising gold dial to the philosophy that continues to shape one of independent watchmaking’s most distinctive brands. We also revisit the unforgettable launch of the sold-out Lapis Lazuli B/1 and discover the soundtrack Phil thinks best suits the Ripple.
Limited to just 10 watches: Our New Sartory-Billard x Time+Tide SB04-E ‘Foundry’
Created exclusively for Time+Tide, the Sartory-Billard SB04-E ‘Foundry’ is a love letter to New York, taking inspiration from the city’s ornate metalwork and iconic façades. In our latest video, we explore the story behind this 10-piece limited edition, taking a closer look at its beautifully layered dial and the architectural details that make it one of Sartory-Billard’s most distinctive creations.