EDITOR’S PICK: Do I really want to see Rolex make titanium watches?
Zach BlassEditor’s note: With Watches & Wonders on the horizon, the rumour mill is about to crank up again in earnest as predictions swirl as to what Rolex will release this year. That’s why we thought we’d revisit this story about a titanium Yachtmaster prototype that was recently spotted in the wild. Did that leak reveal a forthcoming release from the Crown? And, if so, would it be a good addition to the Rolex roster? Zach chews this question over right here.
Ok. Let’s get this out of the way now. I love titanium. I own multiple titanium watches and laud them for the fact they are highly robust yet lightweight, two great qualities for an everyday watch you plan to wear during strenuous or sporty activities. I even associate the material as a flagship metal for brands such as Grand Seiko, which has an extensive range of titanium watches – i.e the Snowflake which I always jest does not just not describe the dial but how it wears on the wrist. Recently, however, it was revealed that a renowned manufacturer had made an under-the-radar foray into full titanium for the first time: Rolex. I know what I am about to say is a bit hypocritical considering I am definitely on the record suggesting that brands need to continue to innovate in order to prevent a stale marketplace. I have even repeatedly defended titanium, and shot down the notion that luxury and heft have to go hand in hand. But, when news of Rolex’s titanium Yachtmaster prototype broke, I began to ask myself: do I really want to see Rolex make titanium watches?
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In case you missed it, recently Rolex Magazine revealed that legendary sailor Sir Ben Ainslie was spotted wearing a titanium Yachtmaster prototype with two distinguishing features. Firstly, the Yachtmaster on Ainslie’s wrist does not have the cyclops-magnified date complication that is always present on preceding references – and as we know many collectors appreciate the simplicity and symmetry of a watch without a date window. Secondly, the case exhibits a darker tone lacking in lustre that we normally see from the Crown’s 904L stainless steel and precious metals. The darker tone of the case is indicative of the usage of titanium which, coupled with the lack of a date complication, makes it safe to say Ainslie is wearing a prototype watch.
Prototypes are, of course, not unheard of. But it is rather surprising that Rolex wanted to field test it in the wild, giving the chance for outlets such as Rolex Magazine to spotlight the watch publicly. It is a very interesting development and Rolex fans are eagerly awaiting the news that this is the beginning of a new era for Rolex manufacturing. Rolex has used titanium in their watch cases before, with references like the Rolex Deepsea utilizing a titanium caseback. This, however, would mark the first time Rolex has made a full case from titanium (at least to public knowledge).
Under normal circumstances, it is not revolutionary for a watch manufacture to work with titanium. Brands all the way from G-Shock to Vacheron Constantin have already debuted references in the metal. For Rolex though, this is not the normal five and out pass we see from them. Proportionally speaking, this is the rare Hail Mary.
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Some of you must be thinking: “Hush Zach, we want to see Rolex explore titanium in their Professional references.” I don’t blame you. The idea there would be a new material segment in the Rolex catalogue, especially a material that does not carry a hefty price tag, sounds like a great idea on paper. Rolex introducing anything for the first time would be a hot commodity. As I alluded to through my previous American football analogies, the manufacture typically evolves through incremental changes. Were they to officially make an entry into new territory for the brand, it would be a bold move for Rolex and the news would certainly break the watch internet. But while I don’t associate heft with luxury, I kind of do associate heft with Rolex.
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A distinguishing factor for Rolex in the modern era was their 904L stainless steel. Other brands use this grade of steel now as well, but Rolex could be credited for popularizing its usage. Whether consciously or not, what many Rolex owners love about their watches is the fact that their robust steel sports watches wear like precious metals on the wrist. I know this first-hand. There is this sense of tactile luxury, even if in the traditional sense. With my eyes closed in a blind test, I believe I could tell if a 904L stainless steel Rolex was on my wrist just by the wearing sensation alone – it is that distinguishable in my mind. Because they typically make small, refined, and incremental changes each year, the sudden jump to titanium would be highly noticeable on the wrist and with Rolex wearers acclimatised to the heft of 904L stainless steel for decades now, it has become a known quantity of sorts in modern Rolex designs.
When I owned a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight alongside the Rolex Submariner ref. 114060, the greatest distinguishing factor between the pair technically, aside from the BB58 having a silicon escapement and longer power reserve, was the heft of the 316L versus 904L stainless steel. It generated the greatest tell of who was the little brother and who was big brother. It is shallow, I know, but it is a total divergence from their core identity – at least from how the modern collector is familiar with it. It is such a distinguishing element for Rolex and how they wear and feel differently on the wrist, a sense of superiority that can only be processed in hand and in the metal.
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Many people would even advise that when determining whether or not a Rolex is a replica or counterfeit, one test would be to hold the watch in your hand and gauge the heft. Granted counterfeiters have gotten better at imitating this facet, but the fact this was once a large tell when evaluating if the watch was real or fake speaks volumes as to how weight is tied to the identity of the brand.
I hate taking a position that, in effect, looks to stifle innovation and creativity. So, perhaps, it is not my mission to dissuade Rolex from doing so. But I do wonder what the repercussions of such exploration would be. From a manufacturing standpoint titanium is a notoriously difficult metal to machine. It would require a great level of attention to set up, especially in a manner where mass production can occur up to their stringent standards. Therefore, would a segment of titanium references result in less stainless-steel references produced each year? As we learned with Audemars Piguet, manufactures have a road map of what they can accomplish in a given year – meaning more of one thing typically yields less of another to make it happen. Rolex, like any watch brand, makes the largest margin on precious metals, so it is unlikely they would cut back on that profitable front of their business. This would potentially create a scenario where stainless steel is even more unobtanium, and, inevitably, a first ever run of titanium would be incredibly hard to score at retail as well. We will never know unless it happens, so all we can do is stay tuned for what Rolex has in store and if they are looking to make history anytime soon.