How did this Piaget become known as the Andy Warhol?
Zach BlassAnnounced in the latter half of last year, Piaget officially (and surprisingly) changed the name of the Black Tie to the Andy Warhol Watch, a moniker that was long used by fans of the model. While the inaugural Andy Warhol Clou de Paris introduced the name change, Piaget expanded the collection at Watches and Wonders 2025, as the complex cushion shape merged with new dials. But before we explore the new watch, it’s important to dive into its backstory first.
The backstory
The ’70s were pivotal for watchmaking, a time when quartz technology began to rise, and the marketing masterclass of steel being a material for luxury watchmaking was conceived. Piaget, however, has never been a brand to dilute what it believes to be glamour – the Piaget society is all about jet-setting luxury and living on the sunny side of life. Piaget has always been a brand with a true artistic sensibility, playing with shapes, colours, and materials, especially as a pioneer in stone dials, long ahead of the trend we are seeing today.
It was only in 1979, by the end of the decade, that Piaget would enter the sporty category with its Polo – on its own terms, naturally, with a then-advanced quartz movement, and in a gadrooned form Yves Piaget has described as a bracelet with a watch, rather than a watch on a bracelet. Everyone can argue over which integrated icon stole its look from the other, but the Polo from 1979 has no doppelgänger. To put things in perspective, its descendant, the Polo S introduced in 2016, was the brand’s first-ever steel collection. Love it, hate it, or envy it, Piaget largely centres around precious materials, artistic crafts, and speaking to luxury lifestyles.
This sense of glamour and artistry is undoubtedly what drew Andy Warhol to the brand. The renowned pop artist was known to have owned at least seven Piaget watches – four of which proudly reside within Piaget’s private collection. In 1973, Warhol acquired a Piaget he didn’t know would eventually be named after him, then known as the reference 15102 and first introduced in 1972 with the famed Beta 21 movement. This unnamed model, the 15102, was produced in a very limited series from 1972 to 1977, with just 26 pieces made. The design would later be named the Black Tie upon its return 37 years later. But as we all know, watches often earn nicknames from collectors, and owing to its most well-known wearer, all who knew the design would simply refer to it as the Warhol. As of November 2024 and through a partnership with the Andy Warhol Foundation For the Visual Arts, the collection name and nickname have become one.
The Piaget Andy Warhol of today
Since its inception, the design of the Warhol has, for the most part, remained unchanged. Upon release, the cushion case boldly measured 45mm in width and 38mm lug-to-lug. The current generation retains the 45mm width but now has a lug-to-lug of 43mm, giving it more presence and catering to modern tastes without sacrificing the integrity of its original form. The wide cushion shape is just one case signature, the second being the stepped perimeter around the dial, which is said to have the intention of creating the illusion of thinness. However, thanks to its 501P1 movement that is just 3.63mm thick – and despite its intricate sculptural form – the Andy Warhol is only around 8mm in height. Now that is quite thin, illusion or no illusion.
Looking at the case from the side, though, the seeming staircase climbing up to its sapphire crystal peak, it does look thinner than its stated dimension for sure. Then again, this is a brand that has long indulged in the pursuit of ultra-thin watchmaking before it was on-trend and has held a world record for the thinnest tourbillon at just 2mm thick (until usurped by Bulgari, but that’s beside the point). The Andy Warhol is a made-to-order collection, which can be configured in 200 different ways through ten ornamental stone dial options, five different coloured leather straps, two handsets (baton or dauphine), and either white or rose gold through the Maison’s Infinitely Personal service. For those who can’t be bothered going through the motions, there are also ready-made configurations that Piaget offers.
Two Andy Warhol models made their debut at Watches and Wonders. One finds itself in a white gold case paired with a tiger’s eye dial and a colour-matching brown leather strap. The second, a high-jewellery variant, embeds a triple-row of blue, baguette-cut sapphire gadroons within the steps of the case that perfectly match the dazzling blue opal stone dial and blue leather strap. To find such a quantity of blue sapphires in a uniform hue was a challenge in and of itself, and the same can be said for the opal dial in regard to finding a stone large enough to fill the case.
The verdict
I won’t pretend the Piaget Andy Warhol is to everyone’s taste, man or watch, with the latter certainly not in everyone’s budget. The price upon request description these two new models bear will certainly unsettle the average collector, and the least expensive model listed in the Andy Warhol collection (a rose gold model with a black dial) will set you back US$43,400. This is an exclusive collection from an exclusive brand, and as a result one that will not be produced in high quantities. It is, perhaps, the price of perfection, with perfectly curated stone dials and a complex case shape that is exquisitely finished and, in some instances, gem-set.
Those who purchase this watch are certainly those less fussed about chronometry and complication, instead placing greater emphasis on design. The Andy Warhol collection is at the crossroads of jewellery and watch in some ways, given its shape and materials, with all the glamour of the brand and its namesake creating an air of unique personality, especially should you take advantage of the Infinitely Personal service. Say what you will, but it is undeniable that shaped watches and stone dials are very trendy right now, and the Andy Warhol Watch sits at the peak of luxury within this segment.
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch pricing and availability
The Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Watches and Wonders 2025 novelties are available now for inquiries. Price: Upon request
Brand | Piaget |
Model | Andy Warhol Watch |
Case Dimensions | 45mm (D) x 8mm (T) x 43mm (LTL) |
Case Material | 18k white gold 18k white gold, baguette-cut sapphire gadroons |
Water Resistance | 30 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
Dial | Tiger’s eye Opal |
Strap | Dial-matching leather strap, case-matching pin buckle |
Movement | Calibre 501P1, in-house, automatic |
Power Reserve | 40 hours |
Functions | Hours and minutes |
Availability | Now for inquiries |
Price | Upon request |