The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is Vacheron Constantin’s platinum stunnerBorna Bošnjak
- The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date continues the brand’s 2023 focus on retrograde complications
- Hewn of platinum and with a salmon dial, the ref. 4000U/000P-H003 becomes the crown jewel of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date model line
- Combining the highly regarded metal with salmon is a new signature for Vacheron Constantin, debuting in 2022
The Patrimony collection is Vacheron Constantin’s faithful look back at its archives, creating watches the likes of which we could’ve seen in the 1950s, but using modern technology. Sporting a gorgeously curved salmon dial, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date becomes the next model that continues the marriage of dusty rose and platinum that Vacheron already introduced with the likes of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Described by the brand as “circular perfection”, the model’s slim features and elegant shapes have been inspired by the likes of the Disco Volante ref. 4986 – D.C. delved deeper into its history, for those interested.
Vacheron Constantin has certainly made a push to include the retrograde display in many of their pieces for this year’s releases, though it all starts to make sense considering their historical affinity for the complication. The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date, in particular, takes inspiration from historical models like the noughties references 47245 and 12306, as well as the amazing piece unique known as Don Pancho. This particular Patrimony could also be referred to as a bi-retrograde, which used to be the model’s name before a recent refresh. Separating the dial into two halves, the top one features a semi-circle of printed date numerals pointed to by a blued, skeletonised hand that jumps back once it reaches the end of the display at 31. A smaller hand does the same below the pinion, except it now points to days, fully spelled out in a fan-like shape. The blue colour of the printing matches the pointer hands, while the main handset and sharktooth indices are in white gold. The domed dial is a salmon sunburst, with another touch of rosiness in the 18k 5N pink gold of the Maltese cross emblem.
While the overall design may invoke mid-century styling, the on-wrist experience is more contemporary than that. Measuring in at 42.5mm in diameter and 9.7mm in height, this is likely to be a dressy proposition for the larger-wristed folk. The 950 platinum case is fully polished, as is expected with a watch like this, while sapphire crystals cover the dial and caseback. With water resistance set to 30 metres, the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date will be best suited to drier habitats. Accompanying the salmon dial and platinum case is a dark blue alligator leather strap with tonal stitching, finished in a platinum Maltese cross buckle.
Movement-wise, the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date sports the 2460 R31R7/3 calibre. While not the most memorably named, its finishing and tech are worthy of the Poinçon de Genève that it proudly displays on the balance cock. Skeletonisation, Geneva striping, anglage and perlage are all present in our finishing techniques guide, but also in Vacheron’s slim, in-house calibre, beating at 4Hz for up to 40 hours.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date pricing and availability:
The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is a Vacheron Constantin boutique exclusive, with a limited annual production. Price: €70,000
|Model||Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date|
|Case Material||950 platinum|
|Water Resistance||30 metres|
|Dial||Convex salmon sunburst|
|Crystal(s)||Sapphire front and back|
|Strap||Dark blue alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp|
|Movement||2460 R31R7/3, in-house, automatic, 4Hz|
|Power Reserve||40 hours|
|Functions||Bi-retrograde day and date, hours, minutes|
|Availability||Limited annual production, boutique exclusive|