Patek Philippe acquires Beyer Chronometrie, Philipps introduces watch insurance, and the Horological Society of New York commits over $1.6M to watchmaking
Tom AustinWhether it’s new releases, controversy or April Fools jokes, there’s never a quiet week in the watch world. This week, however, seems somewhat more business-focused, with some major players making major moves behind the scenes. We have a charity event that has injected over $1.6 million into the future of watchmaking, one of the biggest, most important watch brands acquiring a historic retail brand, and an auction house set to disrupt a long-ignored corner of the watch-collecting sphere, which I know affects pretty much all collectors on every level: insurance. We’re gearing up for our busiest time of the year in the coming days, but it won’t stop us from delivering the news on what’s happening in the watch world right now, so let’s catch up on what’s gone on this week.
The Horological Society of New York celebrates its 160th anniversary, with over $1.6 million committed to the future of watchmaking
Celebrating 160 years of horology in fitting style, the Horological Society of New York marked the occasion with a black-tie gala at The Plaza Hotel, bringing together over 500 of the industry’s heavy hitters. But beyond the setting, the real story was impact. The evening raised $1.2 million, while a record $450,000 was awarded in scholarships, grants and institutional support, nearly quadrupling last year’s total. The Sotheby’s-led charity auction played its part, with standout lots including an F.P. Journe wall clock at $200,000 and a unique piece from Romain Gauthier achieving $130,000.More importantly, the funds directly fuel HSNY’s core mission: backing future watchmakers through 55 scholarships, support for five schools, and new grants for independents. For an industry built on craft and continuity, that’s where the real value lies.
WonderCare links up with Phillips to bring instant insurance to the auction room
Buying your dream watch at auction has never been a problem; however, insuring it has. Now, WonderCare is looking to change that, partnering with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo to embed insurance directly into the collecting experience. Rolling out across Phillips’ famous New York auctions and private sales, the integration gives U.S. buyers access to real-time quotes, digital policy management and global coverage, all backed by Chubb. It’s a clear attempt to modernise a part of collecting that, for a lot of us, still feels stuck in the past, where insuring a watch can often be slower and more complicated than buying one. For Phillips, it adds another layer of service to an already polished experience. For WonderCare, it puts their platform exactly where it makes the most sense: at the point of acquisition, when the need for protection is most pressing.
Patek Philippe takes over Beyer Chronometrie, bringing 260 years of retail history under its control
Patek Philippe has acquired Beyer Chronometrie, bringing to a close the legacy of one of the longest-standing names in Swiss watch retail. Based on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse, Beyer traces its history back to 1760 and has worked closely with Patek Philippe since the mid-19th century, so this deal has been a long time in the making. The retailer’s multibrand offering, which includes names like Rolex, Tudor and IWC, is expected to be phased out as the space is redeveloped into a full Patek Philippe Salon, set to become one of only a handful worldwide. Importantly, Beyer’s own museum will remain independent, with plans to relocate it to another site within Zurich. As for the retail side, the Beyer name will disappear for the first time in nearly two centuries, marking a significant shift on one of watchmaking’s most important streets.
Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!
Tom and the Time+Tide Team
Watch meme of the week: Underd0g strikes again, but did they go too far this time?
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This week saw April 1 roll around, and, as expected, the watch world leaned fully into it. A flood of April Fool’s “releases” followed, with highlights including the Sartory Billard SB10 Jumping Hour Cheese Grater or the wonderfully unhinged Patek Philippe Triangulus. But if there’s one brand you can rely on to blur the line between joke and genuine drop, it’s Brighton’s own Studio Underd0g. True to form, their latest stunt had just enough believability to make you double-take… before realising something wasn’t quite right. Except, in a twist that feels very on-brand, part of it actually was. The absurd straps at the centre of the joke turned out to be real, and a handful were sent out to those brave (or optimistic) enough to sign up for the fake launch. At this point, you’re never entirely sure whether to laugh, click “buy”, or both. Never change, Underd0g.
Wrist shot of the week: A timely Tudor
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First of all, not only are @dialdaily’s wrist shots pretty legendary, showcasing his stunning collection, including pieces like a Studio Underd0g x Time+Tide Classic Cheese and his beautiful green-dial IWC Ingenieur, but the Miami pink Tudor Chrono is a showstopper, especially on the jubilee bracelet. The reason I chose this shot was not only because the watch looks awesome, but also because it reminded me of how big the Tudor collective is and how close Time+Tide has become to it. Our incredible event in London last week showcased not only the who’s who of Tudor collecting, but also some of the brand’s most important pieces, all in one room. It’s the embodiment of what collecting watches is all about: people enjoying the watches and each other’s stories about why they love the brand. The Miami Chronograph is a bold statement that stands out amongst a sea of black-and-steel-coloured sports watches, and I think it represents everything that’s daring about Tudor collecting.
Time+Tide Shop pick of the week: Baltic Heures du Monde
Baltic expands beyond its usual playbook with the new Heures du Monde, introducing a compact, stone-dial worldtimer that blends vintage restraint with added functionality. Housed in a modest 37mm steel case with 100m water resistance, it pairs labradorite, tiger eye and sodalite dials with a 24-hour ring and rotating city bezel for intuitive global time tracking. Powered by a modified Soprod C125, it ditches the GMT hand for a cleaner execution. Limited to 200 pieces per dial, it’s a confident step up for the brand.
The Baltic Heures du Monde is available now at the Time+Tide Studios and online at the Time+Tide Shop. Price: €1,300 (leather), €1,360 (bracelet).
Our favourite Time+Tide coverage of the week
How Tudor watches are actually made – from raw metal to finished watch
Russell takes us on a journey through the entire Tudor supplier network, showing us exactly how a Tudor watch is made, from the brass movement mainplates and dial-making, all the way to final assembly and testing. It’s a rare look behind the curtain of what was a fairly elusive brand, and it’s amazing to see them allow us in to share everything with you, which includes a surprising amount of human interaction, contrary to popular belief.
Hands-on with Zenith’s latest 2026 watches: Defy Skyline, Chronograph, Revival, & Skyline 36
Before we get into Watches and Wonders, which is inching ever closer, Zenith allowed us to get up close and personal with some of the 2026 watches they introduced at LVMH Watch Week. Watch the video above, or read Zach’s full hands-on review here.
Downsized, refined and quietly confident, Tissot’s new 38mm is the perfect Gentleman
Tissot refines one of its most reliable all-rounders with the new Gentleman 38mm, trimming the case down from 40mm for a more contemporary, versatile fit. The updated design keeps things clean and understated, with a subtle “pyramidal” dial finish across four colour options, adding just enough texture without overcomplicating things. Inside, the Powermatic 80 delivers its dependable 80-hour reserve, while 100m water resistance keeps it firmly in everyday territory. It’s a simple formula, but one that continues to work as the perfect watch for the perfect gentleman.