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Omega adds a white dial to the Speedmaster Omega adds a white dial to the Speedmaster

Omega adds a white dial to the Speedmaster

Russell Sheldrake
  • After teasing us with a glimpse of this watch on Daniel Craig’s wrist last year at the Planet Omega event, we now finally have the white dial Omega Speedmaster.
  • It features a first-ever lacquered dial for the Speedmaster Professional. 
  • At US$8,100 on a bracelet, it is priced US$100 more than the standard black dial.

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After being teased with this watch in November last year at the glitzy Planet Omega event in New York, we finally have confirmation of the new Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial. With the attractive combination a callback to the famous Alaska Project prototypes and new materials for this line, this new release from Biel proves to deliver on a lot of levels.

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So, why should we care about this new dial colour? There have been white dial Speedmasters in the past, and versions that make reference to historic Moonwatches. What makes this new release exciting, then, is the combination of these factors into an everyday Speedmaster that is not a limited edition or character watch. This is a pureblood Moonwatch that now carries a refreshed face, forming a new branch in this ever-collectible family tree.

 

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In a move that is appearing ever more common among brands, we first caught sight of this watch peeking from under the cuff of Daniel Craig in November. At this time, no information had been shared about the watch at all, and the brand was staying completely tight-lipped about it. But thanks to high-resolution photography, we were able to pick out key details of this new piece which marked it out from other possibilities such as the Canopus Gold Speedmaster, which has a more silvered dial in comparison to this crisp white.

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There are small details on this new model which make reference to historic Moonwatches which fans will be very happy to see. For example, the red script for the Speedmaster marque draws from the iconic red heat shield case provided to the Alaska Project pieces that Omega designed specifically to withstand the cold of the Moon. It is also similar to the red text found on the white-dialled version of the Seamaster 300M. Another important detail that enthusiasts will spot is on the anodised aluminium bezel is the favoured “dot over 90”.

The main attraction here is the lucious white dial. Making use of varnish and lacquer for the first time on a Speedmaster, it appears to have real depth to it, elevating it above the standard model, and moving the line in a more premium direction. Crucially, the step down to the outer minute track is still there, along with its circular graining. To contrast this stark white, we have diamond-polished, black PVD-coated hands and markers, with small amounts of lume applied to both. All of this is visible through a sapphire crystal, which obviously departs from the traditional Hesalite found on the more historically accurate Professional models.

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There is also a sapphire display window on the caseback, giving an excellent view of the Calibre 3861. This is the latest version of the Omega Calibre 1861, which was in turn based on the renowned Lemania 1873. A manual-winding chronograph, up to 50% of the components have been changed or modified from the original base, including the addition of the Co-Axial escapement and silicon hairspring. All of these modifications mean it now passes METAS Certifications with a variance no worse than 0/+5 seconds a day.

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The Speedmaster Moonwatch white dial is available with three strap options. The first is the stainless steel, five-link bracelet, which has that fantastic taper and adjustable clasp. Next is a perforated leather strap, and finally a black rubber that has been seen on previous models.

Overall, this new Moonwatch adds some real vibrancy to the standard offering, without straying far from the heritage which has made it so popular. It is still undeniably a Speedmaster Moonwatch, but with this new, luxurious dial, it stands alone within the Professional range.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional pricing & availability

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The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is available now from Omega boutiques and later from authorised retailers. Price: US$8,100 (steel bracelet), US$7,800 (leather and rubber strap)

Brand Omega
Model Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
Reference Number 310.30.42.50.04.001 (on steel bracelet) / 310.32.42.50.04.002 (on rubber strap), 310.32.42.50.04.001 (on leather strap)
Case Dimensions 42mm (D) x 13.18mm (T)
Case Material Stainless steel
Water Resistance 50 meters
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and back
Dial White varnish and lacquer
Strap Five line stainless steel bracelet, leather, or rubber
Movement Omega Co-Axial METAS calibre 3861
Power Reserve 50 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tachymeter
Availability Now
Price US$8,100 (steel bracelet)
US$7,800 (leather and rubber strap)