Omega’s latest pair of Speedmaster Moonwatch Professionals feature lacquered reverse panda dials
Zach BlassNew year, new Speedies! Omega is starting 2026 off on a high note with two new takes on its most iconic watch, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. When I first saw this duo, I thought, “Damn, the reverse panda looks hot. But in 18k gold, people are going to wish there was a steel option.” And then I realised that it’s not white Canopus Gold alongside the yellow Moonshine Gold. Thank heavens… It’s stainless steel!
Let’s get right into what’s new, and I know some of you may be preemptively rolling your eyes at the idea of a reverse panda dial being called new – so, hear me out. When using common colours like black and white, or a rather common colour scheme like a reverse panda layout, it’s all about the details and execution of the dial. Thankfully, Omega has executed these dials well.
The dial
Rather than going with a flatter, more utilitarian matte finish, Omega has opted to continue its exploration of lacquered finishes. Comprising two dial plates, the upper plate has a deep black lacquer varnish akin to the black lacquer seen on the Seamaster Aqua Terra models from 2024, and a crisp white lacquer varnish for the lower plate for the chronograph counters a step below, just like the fully white Speedmaster that was also released in 2024, which caused such a stir.
White hashes and text are transferred onto the black surface of the main dial, with black numerals transferred onto the white counters. Omega could have gone a bit funkier and injected some red, maybe even blue, but I am glad they showed restraint. The overall look feels very classic and luxe. Indeed, the rich, dark lacquer is somewhat evocative of the black onyx used on the limited edition platinum Speedmaster 321, which also had something of a reverse panda look with its meteorite subdials.
For the stainless steel variant, the applied Omega logo, hands, and indices are rhodium-plated, while the 18k Moonshine Gold model (which we actually got a glimpse of back in May 2025, teased on the wrist of actor Coleman Domingo) has Moonshine Gold hands and applied elements to match the external hardware. And, yes, the hour indices and the central hands utilise luminous fillings for visibility in darkness.
The case
Whether in 18k gold or full stainless steel, aside from the new reverse panda dial, these two new models are every bit the sapphire sandwich Speedmasters you are probably familiar with. They boast 42mm cases, 13.18mm thick including the Hesalite-simulating boxed sapphire crystal, and are a comfortable 47.5mm across the wrist lug-to-lug.
There isn’t any significant fixed flare to the endlinks as well, so there is no massive effective lug-to-lug to jumpscare you and deflate you when you try it on for the first time. One last note on the case: since the dial is lacquered, the bezel is made of black ceramic to match the glossy lacquer feel of the dial.
The bracelet
The case-matching bracelet wraps around the wrist well, and, being affixed to sapphire sandwich models, features mixed finishing to match the case, unlike the full brushing found on the Hesalite model. The current generation of Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional watches also notably boasts a comfort setting in the clasp, offering on-the-fly micro-adjustment for when it is needed.
The movement
Exhibited inside, the 50-hour manual-winding calibre 3861 remains, the Co-Axial and METAS-certified descendant of the calibre 861 that debuted in the late 1960s – replacing the famed calibre 321. Though industrially applied, the finishing is handsome and worthy of exhibition, with the top surfaces of the calibre either striped or satinated and the edges bevelled.
The verdict
Okay, so why should we all go nuts over a simple reverse panda dial? Of the 116 configurations of Speedmaster watches currently on the Omega website, which would include this new duo, the Moonwatch Professional only accounts for 23 configurations, and that really boils down to 13 different models with varying degrees of strap options.
With so many people gravitating towards the tried and true OG steel Moonwatch with a black dial, the rather limited exploration of colour has been reserved for models that utilise precious metals. This explains why the watch community had a massive, excited reaction when the steel Speedy launched with a full white lacquered dial in 2024, joining the then-sole OG black dial option. Black or white, that’s it. Those were the only two options for a full steel Speedmaster listed under the Moonwatch Professional category.
Now the full steel Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has a third dial option, and though black or white has now simply become black or white or black and white, it’s the first panda dial for a full steel Moonwatch Professional in the current generation. So, is this new dial the most innovative? No. But for many Omega buyers out there, simply having another dial option in the Moonwatch Professional segment is game-changing, especially since one of the two configurations is in steel.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White pricing and availability
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White watches are available now for purchase. Price: US$10,400 (stainless steel), US$49,300 (18k Moonshine Gold)
| Brand | Omega |
| Model | Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional |
| Reference | 310.30.42.50.01.004 (stainless steel) 310.60.42.50.01.002 (18k Moonshine Gold) |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 13.18mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel 18k Moonshine Gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Boxed sapphire front, flat sapphire exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Black lacquer dial, white lacquer chronograph counters |
| Strap | Case-matching five-link bracelet, folding clasp, comfort setting adjustment |
| Movement | Calibre 3861, in-house, manual-winding, Co-Axial, METAS-certified |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$10,400 (stainless steel) US$49,300 (18k Moonshine Gold) |