Nezumi’s updated and refined Baleine continues the brand’s counter-culture ethos
Andrew O'Connor- Swedish-based brand Nezumi releases updated and refined versions of its Baleine dive watch.
- Updates to this latest iteration include reducing the case thickness from 13mm to 12.1mm, a ceramic bezel insert, and switching from a Seiko NH35 to a Miyota 9039.
- The updated black dial version will be available for order from November 17th, with a limited launch edition in “tonal grey” available from December 1st, limited to 300 pieces.
Sometimes it is hard to believe that many microbrands we know today have been around for over a decade now, and that is definitely the case for Nezumi. Originally founded in 2011 with a focus on denim and leather products, the brand shifted focus to watches in 2015 with the release of the Voiture mecha-quartz chronograph. With designs inspired by vintage watches from the second half of the 20th century, and the cars to match, Nezumi gained popularity by balancing familiar design cues while making them its own, and at an affordable price. With brand founder David Campo at the helm, Nezumi watches are designed in Sweden, assembled in Germany, and movements are mostly sourced from Seiko and Miyota. Greatly influenced by skateboarding, heavy metal, and their associated fashion scenes in the United States in the 1980s and 90s, how has this influence shown up in Nezumi’s latest release?
Nezumi released its first dive watch in 2017 with the Baleine collection. A 40mm MilSub-influenced piece with a Seiko NH35 inside, the specs read like many other microbrand dive watches. The first instance of Nezumi’s cultural influence showing up in its watches is the willingness to update quickly. The Baleine was first updated in 2020, which managed to reduce the thickness from 14.4mm to 13mm, and replaced the full metal bezel with an aluminium bezel insert. Various iterations and a steady place in the brand’s catalogue prove that the Baleine has been a successful model for Nezumi. 2025 brings another round of updates to the Baleine, further cementing the Baleine model’s place in Nezumi’s product line-up.
The new Baleine features further refinements, most notably a redesigned case that is now 12.1mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating (10.25mm without the crystal), reducing the thickness again by a significant margin. The reduction in thickness is aided by the switch from a Seiko NH35 to a Miyota 9039 automatic movement. Operating at 28,800 BPH with a 42-hour power reserve, the Miyota 9039 offers reliable performance while being significantly thinner than the NH35.
The case is still 40mm, but the bezel has been reduced to 39mm. The dial is now multi-layered, with a smooth outer ring contrasting the centre of the dial, which features a grained textured finish. The indices are now applied and filled with X1 Super-LumiNova, moving on from the flat printed dial of previous iterations. The bezel has also been updated with a satin-finished ceramic insert with lumed markings.
Specs that have been carried through include the brushed 316L stainless steel case with lyre lugs, screw-down crown, solid case back, and 200 meters of water resistance. The case back is engraved with a stylised Nezumi logo, along with specifications of the watch. The Baleine has 20mm lugs and comes with a quick-release rubber strap with a steel pin buckle. The Nezumi Baleine is still assembled, tested, and quality-controlled in Germany.
At launch, there are two versions of the updated Nezumi Baleine on offer. There is the standard production model with a black dial and bezel, with beige indices and bezel markings. There is also a limited “tonal grey” version with white indices and bezel markings, with a grey dial and grey bezel.
Closing thoughts
This updated Baleine marks a big step forward in terms of refinement for the model. Nezumi explains the origin of the brand’s name on its website: it’s named after a Japanese folk hero called Nakamura Jirokichi, who was responsible for exposing Lord Masumune’s corruption and was an agile acrobat and thief, stealing only from the rich. His nimbleness earned him the nickname Nezumi, which means rat or mouse in Japanese. This Robin Hood mentality is actualised by the brand in its ability and strong belief in doing good in the world, by making contributions to wildlife preservation, animal rescue efforts, and sanctuaries worldwide.
Going back to the culture around skateboarding and metal music in the United States, there is often a mentality of “move fast and break things.” While this may appear crass and unfocused from the outside, there is often a very intentional message and goal being pursued. While initial efforts may be a bit rough, the quest to effectively communicate one’s goal is achieved through continuous effort and refinement. There is also a constant reference to those who came before, using history as a launching point for either continuation or deviation. Nezumi’s willingness to continuously update models and change aspects of the watch to achieve a desired goal for the timepiece is displayed with this latest update to the Baleine: a wearable, modern diver suitable for daily wear that pays respect to coveted vintage divers, yet manages to reflect the unique perspective and goals that founder Campo has for the brand.
Nezumi Baleine pricing and availability
The black dial Nezumi Baleine will be available from 3 pm CET on November 17th, 2025, and the limited launch edition in “tonal grey” will be available December 1st. The latter is limited to 300 individually numbered pieces. Both are available via Nezumi’s online store. Price: €630 (on rubber strap), €695 (on bracelet)
| Brand | Nezumi |
| Model | Baleine |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 12.1 (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, ceramic bezel insert |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire front |
| Dial | Matte black Tonal grey (launch edition) |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Tropic-style rubber strap with steel pin buckle Optional steel bracelet |
| Movement | Miyota 9039, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | From November 17th, 2025 Launch edition available December 1st, 2025 and limited to 300 pieces |
| Price | €630 (on rubber strap) €695 (on bracelet) |