NEWS: The 15 best watches of 2017, according to the GPHG
Felix ScholzA few hours ago, watchmaking’s night of nights – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – wrapped up (though we suspect the afterparties may still be in full swing), and 15 prizes, along with a special jury prize, were awarded by the jury. The GPHG awards are often hotly debated, but do, nonetheless, provide an interesting barometer of where the watch industry is at. This year’s winners are an interesting mix of bigger brands and niche players, haute horology and a more mass approach. I also think it’s great to see a focus on commercially minded innovation, which is perhaps indicative of where the industry’s mind is at right now. But that’s enough from me. Here are the winners.
MEN’S WATCH PRIZE
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Automatic
This hotly tipped favourite is a worthy winner. Read our review here.
“AIGUILLE D’OR” GRAND PRIX
Chopard
L.U.C. Full Strike
Chopard has quietly been making excellent watches for years. It just paid off, big time.
LADIES’ WATCH PRIZE
Chanel
Première Camélia Skeleton
Chanel’s second manufacture movement is an attractive blend of brand motif and engineering prowess.
LADIES’ HIGH-MECH WATCH PRIZE
Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Papillon Automate
Whimsical. Ingenious. Beautiful. When it comes to women’s high mechanicals, VC&A are the ones to beat.
CHRONOGRAPH WATCH PRIZE
Parmigiani Fleurier
Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
Parmigiani Fleurier, always a favourite with the experts, had an excellent year with two wins in complicated categories.
TOURBILLON AND ESCAPEMENT WATCH PRIZE
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton
Another thin win for Bulgari, rewarding the hard work and non-traditional design approach of their watch design team.
CALENDAR WATCH PRIZE
Greubel Forsey
QP à Équation
Few brands can make a watch like Greubel Forsey, as this stunner of a perpetual calendar (with bonus EOT) proves.
TRAVEL TIME WATCH PRIZE
Parmigiani Fleurier
Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde
Parmigiani’s second win is for this two-timing take on their original Tonda.
MECHANICAL EXCEPTION WATCH PRIZE
Vacheron Constantin
Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
Guaranteed to give you a headache (unless you’re an astrophysicist), this incredibly complex VC is truly outstanding.
“PETITE AIGUILLE” PRIZE
Tudor
Black Bay Chrono
Proving that in-house nous and a smart price is a winning combo. Find out more about the BB Chrono here.
SPORTS WATCH PRIZE
Ulysse Nardin
Marine Regatta
A smart (and stylish) take on a niche complication. Read our review of one of SIHH’s best here.
JEWELLERY WATCH PRIZE
Chopard
Lotus Blanc Watch
A second, high jewellery win for Chopard proves that they’re masters of both brains and beauty.
ARTISTIC CRAFTS WATCH PRIZE
Voutilainen
Aki-No-Kure
Just look at it. Seriously. How could it not win?
REVIVAL WATCH PRIZE
Longines
The Longines Avigation BigEye
Longines prove (again) that they’re a dab hand at heritage. Read our review here.
INNOVATION PRIZE
Zenith
Defy Lab
With a completely new escapement that could revolutionise the watch industry, Zenith’s Defy Lab is true innovation.
SPECIAL JURY PRIZE
Suzanne Rohr and Anita Porchet
Specialist artisans like enamellers Suzanne Rohr and Anita Porchet are the hidden lifeblood of high horology. Great to see them honoured.