The Audemars Piguet 2021 Women novelties are so hot any gender would wear them

Zach Blass

Gendering watches has been a hot topic as of late, and for good reason because there is room for growth in perspective from both enthusiasts and manufacturers. So when I first got the press release for the new Audemars Piguet 2021 Women novelties, I kind of let out a sigh. But, to be fair, I take no issue with designs being created with women in mind – they certainly deserve attention in the marketplace that currently more often caters to a male perspective. When I saw the images and specifications of the watches, however, I was super excited by what I saw. Nomenclature and intention aside, these watches are objectively stunning – so much so I imagine buyers of all backgrounds will get behind these creations. If anything, it is a testament to the fact that the storied holy trinity manufacturer has their ear to the ground. Sure they have signalled that they designed these watches with women in mind, but they have also refrained from utilizing the stereotypical cues that have, at times, dominated the category. These watches are every bit as equal to what has been presented as “men’s watches” but with a flair and form that really provides interesting refreshers to their corresponding collections.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm selfwinding black ceramic

Probably my favourite watch of the diverse group is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm self-winding in black ceramic. Royal Oak’s are known for wearing a tad larger than their dimensions on paper across the wrist, and I know from personal experience that the 34mm configuration really suits my smaller wrist well. The framework is nothing new, as the 34mm Royal Oak garnered a lot of attention when it was first released. The true revolution here is that the size now finds itself in stealth black ceramic, equally finished to the highest degree as its larger peers in the catalogue. It is also the only time and date Royal Oak in black ceramic throughout the catalogue, creating a less complicated and more approachable option for buyers to inquire about.

It’s 34mm case and bracelet are executed in black ceramic, with the exhibition caseback rendered in titanium. The black “Grande Tapisserie” dial blends perfectly with the tone of the case and bracelet, but is configured with the warmth of contrasting pink gold hands, hour indices, applied AP logo, and even bezel screws – adding a sensual pop of colour to the predominantly stealthy watch. The hours and minutes hands, and hour indices, are filled with SuperLuminova® for added visibility in darker settings, a trademark characteristic of a sporty watch.

Inside the watch, which for the record is 8.8mm thick and 50 metres water-resistant, is powered by the automatic caliber 5800 – a Vaucher VMF 3002 ebauche decorated and assembled in-house by Audemars Piguet. The movement features 50 hours of power reserve with a double barrel and a variable inertia balance, giving the movement better operating stability and optimal timing. You also have the added luxury of a pink gold rotor designed by Audemars Piguet, decorated with chamfers and a central sunken frosted surfaces that frames a carved AP logo.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in frosted golds

The perfect example of the blurred lines between “men’s” and “women’s watches, Audemars Piguet has actually introduced two new Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel models in 37mm, and snuck in new 41mm models as well in all three tones of frosted gold. A frosted white gold 37mm has already been introduced previously, but now yellow and pink gold configurations have entered the fray. It is, however, the debut of the designs in a larger 41mm format – distinguished from their 37mm counterparts with slate grey openworked dials in favour of matching gold.

Aside from that detail, the configurations all share the same design framework, 50 metre water-resistance, and 3132 movement, the only difference between them being their diameters – all of which are 10mm thick. Their frosted gold texture, designed in collaboration with the renowned jewellery designer Carolina Bucci, replaces the typical satin brush with a diamond dust texture that really captures the eye. For added intrigue, each of the watches feature gem-set bezels comprised of baguette-cut ruby, tsavorite, emerald, topaz, tanzanite, and various colored sapphire gemstones which result in a rainbow aesthetic watch collectors really dig. Knowing Dave and Stormzy, they’ll soon own the entire range between them shortly (if they don’t already).

As I mentioned earlier, each of the watches, regardless of size, are powered by the in-house caliber 3132 which features an openworked design, exquisitely finished and chamfered, notably outfitted with a double balance wheel. You have a minimum guaranteed 45 hours of power reserve at your disposal, extended while worn thanks to an openworked solid gold winding mass. There are two differences in caliber configuration, which are purely aesthetic. The first is that the 41mm watches have a contrasting toned double balance wheel and bridge, while the 37mm variants are outfitted with a case matching double balance wheel and bridge. The second is that the 41mm variants have slate-grey NAC coated components, while the 37mm watches are left in their golden hues (which I actually prefer). All of the watches maintain a blackened openworked barrel, visible at 1′ on the dial side – signaling where the mainspring is housed.

Of course the most interesting aspect of the 3132 caliber is its use of two balance wheels. According to AP, “This patented innovation, released by Audemars Piguet in 2016, improves the watch’s precision and stability. By incorporating two balance wheels and two hairsprings assembled on the same axis, the system oscillates in perfect synchrony.”

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm in pink gold with baguette bezel

The new boutique-only Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in 38mm marks the first time that the manufacture is offering a solid 18-carat pink gold timepiece with a bezel that has been set with an array of baguette-cut amethysts. Pairing with the bezel is a tone-matching purple dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, with stepped and textured purple chronograph counters, and 18-carat pink gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coatings. Here buyers are treated to a more traditionally finished Royal Oak Chronograph, a harmony of satin brushing and mirror finishing that reveals hours of elegant hand-craftsmanship the brand has built its name upon.

Standing at 38mm in diameter, 11mm thick, and 50 meters water-resistant, beneath a solid and engraved caseback, the pink gold watch houses the AP caliber 2385 – built upon the F. Piguet 1185F ebauche, notably the thinnest self-winding chronograph movement when it was initially introduced. The vertical clutch column wheel chronograph movement features a flyback complication and has 40 hours of power reserve.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm selfwinding in frosted white gold

Last, but certainly not least, is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm selfwinding in frosted white gold. While the shimmering frosted gold is certainly eye-catching, my eye is drawn to the icy light blue “Grande Tapisserie” dial. It deviates ever so slightly from what we have come to expect from a blue dial, and really pairs well with the texture of the frosted gold.

Like the black ceramic variant mentioned in the beginning, the watch is 34mm in diameter, 8.8mm thick, and 50 meters water-resistant. It also uses the same Vaucher based AP caliber 5800 and contrasting pink gold winding rotor.

For more information on pricing for the Audemars Piguet 2021 Women novelties by region, consult with a sales representative at your local AP boutique or head over to Audemars Piguet’s website here.