Chanel explores blue ceramics with the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition
Tom Austin- Chanel reprises the Monsieur Superleggera for Watches & Wonders 2025 with the new Bleu Edition, featuring a dark blue ceramic case.
- The Superleggera Bleu Edition incorporates the in-house Calibre 1, with both a jumping-hour and 240-degree retrograde minute complications.
- Inspired by automotive speedometers, its movement design is backed by respected independent Romain Gauthier.
I think I have said before that, as a rule, if the watch you’re wearing is the same brand as your bag or socks, it probably isn’t a serious watchmaker. While this may be true in many cases, it most certainly is not the case for Chanel. Located in the Jura mountains, in the city of La Chaux-de-Fonds, its dedicated manufacture is capable of producing some serious haute horlogerie pieces, and its latest creation is one of them, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition.
The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera was initially introduced in 2021 and combined elements from Chanel’s earlier models, such as the J12 from 2016 and the original Monsieur, released in 2005. It showcased not only the brand’s style and automotive-inspired aesthetics but also presented its ability to produce exciting and well-executed watches. Now, the Monsieur Superleggera returns with a brand new dark blue case material, which, if you know Chanel, is rather on-brand, sharing the theme of its masculine brand tag, Bleu de Chanel.
“Superleggera” is a theme that runs through a few of Chanel’s product lines, and it originates from Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera, an Italian coachbuilder known for its lightweight car designs. The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera references this through its design, which is directly inspired by a car’s speedometers. The case itself consists of a steel core, encased in a new dark blue ceramic outer shell, allowing for a lightweight and scratch-resistant composition, which is both unique and functional. The ceramic shell brings the watch to 42mm in diameter and 10.85mm thick, but thanks to the materials, it weighs much less than it looks. The dark blue hue took Chanel five years to develop, and knowing how challenging some colours are to get right in ceramics, I can believe it.
Automotive-inspired watches are not uncommon, but they often either overcommit to the theme or feel uninspired, merely adding a logo to the dial. The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera dial layout, however, does a great job of keeping that classic sportscar characteristic while still looking like a functional and aesthetically pleasing wristwatch. The backdrop of the dial features a black guilloché pattern, reminiscent of the damascene swirl patterns you’d find on the dashboards of classic sports cars.
The theme doesn’t stop there. The retrograde minutes dial spans across 240 degrees and, naturally, is laid out to look just like a rev counter. There’s an off-centre small seconds dial, which could be a speedometer at first glance, and finally, the hour display is a jump-hour design at 6 o’clock, suggestive of some kind of a gear indicator, that rotates around the underside of the dial. The dial layout is thoughtful, and unlike many jump-hour complications that tend to be devoid of any detail whatsoever, it subtly captures the sportscar theme in a considered way.
The Monsieur Superleggera is driven by the Calibre 1 from Chanel, a hand-wound movement created under its own roof, designed by Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio Head Arnaud Chastaingt, with the assistance of none other than Romain Gauthier, the man behind the incredible Logical One. Visible through the exhibition case back, the Calibre 1 features a combination of two complications: a 240-degree retrograde minute display and an instant jumping hour mechanism. It’s a thoughtfully decorated movement which has a uniquely constructed train of wheels, and showcases a free-sprung balance beating at 4Hz. The power reserve is hefty at 72 hours, thanks to twin sequential mainspring barrels.
The automotive theme continues with the accessories on the watch; the Superleggera Bleu Edition comes equipped with a blue nylon strap, finished with blue calfskin details and a black calfskin lining. Securing the strap is a stainless steel triple-folding buckle. These, again, are all in keeping with the sportscar theme, evocative of the materials and components you might find in a high-end classic racer.
Overall, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition is a stunning watch on its own. Still, it also manages to incorporate automotive design aspects into its aesthetic in a way that’s not too over-the-top. While the jump hour design is perhaps a little challenging to read, this is largely irrelevant as this is no tool watch. It’s an inviting watch to look at, and that’s the point, it links back to the message Chanel is trying to convey, and now, in that dark blue masculine ceramic, it has more presence than ever.
Chanel Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition price & availability
The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition is available from Chanel boutiques and is limited to just 100 pieces. Price is on request.
| Brand | Chanel |
| Model | Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 10.85mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel inner case with blue ceramic cladding |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black guilloché with openworked elements |
| Strap | Blue nylon with calfskin trim and lining, steel triple-folding buckle |
| Movement | Chanel Calibre 1, developed with Romain Gauthier, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Jumping hours, retrograde minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | 100 pieces |
| Price | Price on request |