The difference between minimalism and laziness in watch design

Buffy Acacia

While I understand and appreciate the historical context of modernism and post-modernism in art, the rise of stripped-back design has led to a huge misunderstanding. Less is not always more, and simplicity is not always elegant. So-called “minimalism” is responsible for the loss of so much character in design, and there are only so many white-walled, fluorescent-lit corporate buildings we can take before we yearn for decoration, dedication and personality. But, it’s not all doom and gloom. There is a way for design to be minimalist without participating in humanity’s artistic drought, and watchmakers are usually the perfect people to do it.

Some say that great design requires risks to be taken, but I don’t agree. The only prerequisite for escaping the label of laziness is effort, and effort always comes through in the final product. There are plenty of watch designs that I’ve hated or thought were insane, but I’m always glad they exist because it shows somebody was thinking about it. Thoughtlessness is the first stepping stone to laziness. To illustrate this, we can take a look at a Daniel Wellington Classic…

How can you spot laziness?

Hating on Daniel Wellington may be a meme among watch enthusiasts at this point, but there’s a solid foundation of reason behind the vitriol. Aside from charging hundreds of dollars for something you could get on AliExpress for less than $5, and with your own name on the dial no less (even though the guy who founded DW is actually called Filip Tysander), its claims of minimalism are an insult to designers. When you think about it, what is truly “classic” about its design? The baton hour markers, the baton minute track, the baton hands with pointed tips? It looks nothing like old-school pocket watches or antique clocks, and it looks nothing like the dress watches of the ‘50s and ‘60s that prioritised elegance over utility. Everything is flat, soulless, unengaging, and ultimately lazy. It is the bare minimum masquerading as restraint.

Meanwhile, let’s see what Orient calls its “classic” wristwatches. The Orient Quartz Classic ref. UG1R003W instantly draws the eye because of its depth. The dial is very subtly domed, which highlights the space between the dial and the crystal. The applied indices are faceted, reflecting light at different angles. A day/date complication doesn’t distract from the time but offers utility. Finally, the bezel of the watch is slanted, so the watch doesn’t feel like a dinner plate. It’s minimal but thoughtful. No particular feature stands out of balance, but there are still details to appreciate. For less than the price of a Daniel Wellington Classic, wouldn’t you rather take the Orient? In case you’re not yet convinced, let’s break down exactly where minimalism and laziness differ.

Depth

Lazy watchmaking forgets that watches exist in three dimensions. When you don’t have a lot of visual complexity, using space as a design element becomes far more powerful. There are many ways of creating depth, however, and it can be tricky to do without making the watch thicker than it should be. A domed dial like the Orient is one approach, but it can also be done through texture. Stamped patterns or glossy surfaces can give the illusion of depth on a flat plane, like Cartier’s Tank Must references with lacquered dials. You can’t really get more minimalist than a black dial with two hands and no markings, and yet, its inky black surface plays with light in a way that pulls you in. In other words, you can always let a blank dial speak for itself, but the dial needs to be saying something first.

Detail

Excellent designers can put the sublime into the subliminal by focusing on the execution of specific details rather than ignoring them altogether. It may be a tiny decorative spark here and there, or it might be something so covert that your eyes don’t even notice it unless you’re looking for it. A great example of this is on the Baltic Hermétique, which has a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it inclusion of a metal ring around the dial’s main sector. Because the ring reflects everything around it, it blends in but adds dynamics at the same time. Other details don’t need to be so clever, but even something like an interesting set of hands or hour markers with lots of facets can add intoxicating flourishes to an otherwise minimalist dial. One of the most popular minimalist watches with great use of detail is the Junghans Max Bill Handwound, named for its famous Bauhaus designer who used long, slender markers and careful, petite circles for a clean and efficient watch dial with loads of character – and that’s before we mention its lovely, gently stippled dial texture.

Finishing

That leads us nicely to my next point. There’s a reason why owners of high-end watches often own loupes: while truly exceptional finishing is way too expensive for the vast majority of watch brands, even affordable manufacturers need to be aware of their finishing techniques. I wouldn’t expect a $100 Citizen to polish the back of a minute hand only to be admired through its reflection on the hour hand, but at least its case finishing will match the overall aesthetic of the watch. There are so many watches with brushed cases and polished bezels that alternate every surface, purely because it’s an established look and shows off a range of processes. However, most minimalist watches look best with a homogenous finish, whether it’s all polished, brushed, or sandblasted. Choices need to be made in support of the final product, not because they’re the default option.

Additionally, there are many ways to approach the same kinds of finishing. For example, you can brush a watch case vertically, horizontally, or concentrically, and they all end up achieving different things. Straight brushing comes across as far sportier than concentric, and that can really throw off a dress watch. It’s rare to see, but moving the centre of a dial’s sunburst brushing can also have a great effect, like with some Chopard L.U.C models.

Case shape

The less busy the artwork, the more important the frame. That doesn’t mean that a case needs to be complicated if the dial is simple, but your eyes will be drawn to anything that sticks out. Lazy design views a watch case as essentially a pie dish with lugs, usually having straight sides that can make a relatively thin watch feel thick and clunky. Smooth lines, soft transitions, and curvature will draw less attention overall, but a well-placed facet can echo the themes established on a dial. Coming back to the Junghans Max Bill, the case and bezel are so slender that you may barely know they’re there. However, the small lugs are clipped at a harsh angle that reinforces the clinical nature of the dial’s precision. It’s proof that there’s power in simplicity, but only when it’s thought out.