MING Watches: the industry villain making uncompromising design

Time+Tide

There’s something refreshing about meeting someone who doesn’t give a damn about pleasing everyone. Ming Thein, the Melbourne-born founder of MING Watches, is exactly that kind of watchmaker. When Andrew caught up with him at Dubai Watch Week, he brought along three pieces that tell the story of a brand that’s evolved from scrappy startup to industry disruptor, and he’s not apologising for any of it.

“Can I say all of it?” Ming responded when asked which parts of his design language he won’t compromise on. It’s a philosophy that’s made MING Watches instantly recognisable yet somehow polarising. The flared lugs, the textural breaks, the obsessive attention to wearability, it’s all deliberate, and it’s all for an audience of one: Ming himself and his co-founders.

The watches on the table represent three distinct design generations. The latest piece, the titanium Odyssey 37.11, a sports GMT dive watch on the brand’s ingenious 3-D printed Polymesh strap, showcases what happens when Ming’s design philosophy meets modern manufacturing. That polymesh strap/bracelet? It’s not your grandfather’s metal bracelet. It’s chainmail reimagined for the 21st century, silky smooth yet robust enough to withstand 100 kilograms of tensile force. Three months from concept to prototype, practically lightning speed in an industry where products typically take years to develop.

But Ming’s villain status isn’t just about design. It’s about transparency, particularly around pricing. When his eponymous brand launched, its first model retailed for US$900. The dirty secret? It actually costs the brand US$1,300 to make after throwing away three-quarters of its components. Today, Ming’s collection spans from CHF 3,500 for its entry-level piece, around CHF 6,000 for pieces like the Iris and Odyssey, and well into the five-figures for its Agehnor calibre-driven chronograph.

“There’s a difference between price and value,” Ming explains. It’s this distinction that separates MING from brands that play fast and loose with movement origins or discount their way to irrelevance. No discounts means price integrity, which means better resale values for customers. It’s unpopular until you realise it’s actually consumer-friendly.

The transparency extends to Ming’s view on the current indie boom. While everyone’s celebrating the explosion of independent and microbrands, Ming sees it differently. Many of these brands started during peak COVID hype, and we’re only now seeing the fruits of those decisions. The question isn’t about today’s success, it’s about having a roadmap for tomorrow. Ming’s already working on sixth-generation designs while fifth-generation pieces are still in production planning.

The biggest challenge? It’s not what you’d think. It’s Ming himself. With all design and engineering work internalised, every event attended is time away from the drawing board. Every trip means jet lag and delayed production. You can’t 3D print another Ming, at least not yet…

As we wrapped up in Dubai, with a Vegas-style fountain erupting behind us (seriously), one thing became clear: MING Watches isn’t trying to be everything to everyone. It is making watches for people who appreciate uncompromising design, transparent pricing, and the kind of innovation that takes chain mail and turns it into bracelet poetry. Hero or villain? Maybe both. Definitely interesting.