Understanding Micromilspec: an interview with CEO Henrik Rye

Buffy Acacia

The story of Micromilspec is almost like Panerai in fast-forward, having been founded in 2019 to supply watches as a military contractor. In just a handful of years, Micromilspec has accumulated an impressive client list while driving remarkable interest among private collectors. Now, the company has started releasing limited models to the public, and they’re smash hits. With a combination of genuine field knowledge and a microbrand attitude towards affordability, it’s clear that Micromilspec could grow rapidly if it so chooses. But would a sudden shift towards consumer-driven models be against the brand’s ethos? I spoke to Micromilspec’s CEO Henrik Rye to better understand its process and plans for the future.

What are some specific examples of design suggestions made by military units and first responders?

The primary goal of the design is to capture the essence of the unit and what they identify with. This could mean creating an extension of their uniform or incorporating subtle, hidden details that only the owners would recognise. For instance, the Hercules unit wanted a watch inspired by the cockpit of a Hercules aircraft during a night flight — a visual homage. In contrast, a more understated example came from a bodyguard unit that requested a bezel divided into colour coded sections to match their operational code language. For example, “black on box” might indicate a designated entry point, and the owner can rotate the bezel to align with a specific building or scenario.

Do you consider Micromilspec to be a microbrand?

By definition, we definitely qualify as a microbrand — after all, “micro” is part of our name! However, our niche focus make us feel more like an outsider than a micro brand. When designing a new Micromilspec model, is form or function the first priority? As a brand, we always prioritise function and quality. That said, our customers are heavily focused on form — specifically, how the design ties into storytelling and makes the watch authentically theirs. Ultimately, it’s a balance.

How important is affordability to the brand, and has there been any consideration of developing an in-house movement?

We aim to push the most we can out of quality while staying accessible to our core customers, many of whom live on military salaries. At the same time, quality does come with a price tag. When it comes to developing an in-house movement, it would need to serve a practical purpose, such as increasing control over our value chain or improving the product’s reliability. It would never be about driving up the price.

What is involved when a Micromilspec is field-tested?

Field testing is primarily about gathering feedback. While we design every detail in our studio, there’s no substitute for real life conditions. Testing might highlight something as practical as how the crown grips while wearing gloves or whether its size is functional. For example, the Field Testing Unit features the model name and serial number directly on the dial, so soldiers can easily identify it when watches are placed side by side (and, if you look closely, it resembles a dog tag). Testing can also reveal whether bracelets snag wrist hair or pinpoint the first area where wear and tear occurs. Ultimately, field testing is not just about making improvements; it is an opportunity to connect our products with the people who wear them.

Has Micromilspec considered other case materials such as ceramic or carbon fiber?

Absolutely. We’ve already used forged carbon in a custom project for Special Operations Forces. Ceramic is particularly intriguing for its colours, though we have made adjustments to reduce its risk of chipping. It’s definitely in our plans for the future.

Has the U.S. Space Force watch actually been worn in space?

Not yet! But there will be signs.

Why is it important to keep mechanical watchmaking alive in military use?

The primary reason is that, in many military contexts, electronics, quartz movements, and smart watches are prohibited due to concerns over traceability. For example, in sensitive environments such as control rooms or classified operations, electronic devices could potentially be monitored or tracked, which compromises security. In contrast, an automatic watch, with its purely mechanical movement, does not have the same vulnerabilities and is therefore permitted.

Is the exclusivity of Micromilspec due to production limitations or intentional marketing?

The exclusivity of Micromilspec stems from two key factors. First, we are a small team of just five people, and we juggle multiple projects, which requires a significant portion of our time. Second, we schedule and book production only once a year. Our civilian models are made using movements that are available after fulfilling military orders, which always take priority.